The Pavilion That Floats Like Clouds - Encountering Hiunkaku

Just a 15-minute walk from Kyoto Station, in the southeastern corner of the World Heritage Site Nishi Honganji Temple, stands an exceptionally graceful three-story pavilion. The National Treasure Hiunkaku (飛雲閣) - its name literally means "Flying Cloud Pavilion," derived from its appearance of floating in the sky like a cloud, created by its slender pillars and numerous shoji screens.

Hiunkaku is celebrated as one of "Kyoto's Three Great Pavilions" alongside Kinkaku (Golden Pavilion) and Ginkaku (Silver Pavilion). However, as it is normally closed to the public, many tourists are unaware of its existence. Yet this building represents one of the most innovative and beautiful pavilions in Japanese architectural history.

Beauty Inherited from Jurakudai - The History of Hiunkaku

While the origins of Hiunkaku are debated, it is traditionally believed to be a remnant of Jurakudai, the magnificent palace built by Toyotomi Hideyoshi in Kyoto. Hideyoshi relocated Nishi Honganji to its current location in 1591, and when Jurakudai was demolished in 1595, it is said that parts of the building were transferred to the temple.

However, records indicate that Nishi Honganji burned down completely in 1617, suggesting the current Hiunkaku may have been rebuilt during the early Edo period (Genna to Kan'ei eras). Regardless, this architecture undeniably represents the pinnacle of architectural technique and aesthetic sensibility from the Momoyama through early Edo periods.

The Beauty of Asymmetry - Architectural Innovation

Hiunkaku's most distinctive feature is its bold asymmetrical composition. The three-story structure displays remarkable variety: the first floor features an irimoya-style roof with karahafu and chidorihafu gables, the second floor has a yosemune roof with small nokikarahafu on three sides, and the third floor features a simple yosemune roof.

Moreover, the building becomes progressively smaller as it rises, with the central axis shifting eastward - a composition unthinkable in conventional pavilion architecture. This seemingly irregular form creates an exquisite harmony, presenting different expressions from various angles, truly making it "architecture in motion."

A Pavilion Reached by Boat - Waterside Architectural Beauty

Built facing Sōrō Pond in the scenic Tekisui-en garden, Hiunkaku was originally accessible only by boat. The first floor's "Funairi-no-ma" (Boat Entry Room) literally served as an entrance where small boats could dock directly, allowing visitors to enter the building from the water. While a stone bridge now provides access, one can still imagine the elegant lifestyle of the past.

Each floor features rooms with distinct character. The first floor houses the main room "Shōkenden" and "Hakkei-no-ma," along with the later-added tea room "Ikuseki." The second floor's "Kasen-no-ma" features paintings of the Thirty-Six Immortal Poets, while the third floor contains the intimate "Tekiseirō."

Ōkakudai and Steam Bath - Luxurious Auxiliary Buildings

Connected to Hiunkaku by a western corridor, the Ōkakudai (Important Cultural Property) deserves special attention. This elevated structure with a kokera-shingled roof leads to a steam bath (sauna) featuring cutting-edge technology of its time. The bathhouse, adorned with karahafu gables, included sophisticated temperature control through adjustable windows and panels.

Experiencing National Treasure Beauty Through Special Viewings

Though normally closed to the public, Hiunkaku offers special viewing opportunities several times a year. These include the Kyoto Non-Public Cultural Properties Special Opening (spring and autumn), Kyoto Winter Journey, and the Founder's Birthday Celebration (May 21).

Some hotels, such as THE THOUSAND KYOTO, offer exclusive viewing plans for guests (¥5,000 per person). These luxurious programs include detailed explanations by monks and visits not only to Hiunkaku but also to the National Treasure Shoin (Reception Hall and White Study) and Karamon Gate.

Walking Distance from Kyoto Station - Excellent Access

Nishi Honganji is conveniently located about 15-20 minutes on foot from Kyoto Station, or immediately accessible by city bus at the "Nishi Honganji-mae" stop. Situated in the quiet area between Nishi and Higashi Honganji temples, it offers peaceful worship away from tourist crowds.

The temple grounds are free to visit, allowing visitors to experience the magnificent spaces of the National Treasure Goei-do and Amida-do halls. The approximately 400-year-old "Upside-down Ginkgo" tree, a natural monument with legends of spouting water during fires, displays brilliant golden colors in autumn.

Hidden Charms of the Surrounding Area - West Kyoto Station District

The area around Nishi Honganji extends west from Kyoto Station as a calm district. Family-friendly attractions include Higashi Honganji, Ryukoku Museum, Kyoto Aquarium, and Kyoto Railway Museum.

For lunch, enjoy Kyoto-style meals at the traditional house café "Shoku to Mori" with their Kyoto vegetable obanzai plates, seasonal fruit parfaits at "FUKUNAGA901," or the Kyoto pickle buffet at the long-established "Kamadaki Gohan Doi."

Shinsengumi fans should not miss the Taiko-ro drum tower within Nishi Honganji grounds, which served as the group's headquarters. Imagine the warriors practicing martial arts and conducting firing drills in the temple grounds during the turbulent Bakumatsu period.