Juko-in Garden: Where Tea Culture and Zen Aesthetics Converge

Hidden within the sacred precincts of Daitoku-ji Temple in Kyoto lies one of Japan's most significant yet least-visited cultural treasures: Juko-in Garden, also known as "Hyakuseki-no-Niwa" (The Garden of a Hundred Stones). This exquisite karesansui (dry landscape) garden is believed to have been designed by none other than Sen no Rikyu, the legendary tea master who revolutionized Japanese aesthetics and whose influence continues to shape cultural traditions to this day.

As the family temple of the three Sen schools of tea ceremony—Omotesenke, Urasenke, and Mushakoji-senke—Juko-in holds an almost sacred status among practitioners of chanoyu. The garden, designated as a National Scenic Site in 1958, embodies the same spirit of refined simplicity and profound depth that characterizes the highest expressions of Japanese tea culture.

Historical Background: A Temple Born of Warrior Legacy

Juko-in was founded in 1566 during the turbulent Sengoku period by Miyoshi Yoshitsugu, a powerful warrior who established the sub-temple to honor the memory of his adoptive father, Miyoshi Nagayoshi. The temple's name derives from Nagayoshi's posthumous Buddhist name, reflecting the deep filial piety that motivated its creation.

The founding priest was Shorei Sokin, the 107th abbot of Daitoku-ji and a figure of immense importance in the history of Japanese tea culture. Shorei Sokin served as the Zen teacher of Sen no Rikyu, who came to study the way of Zen under his guidance. This spiritual connection between master and disciple would transform Juko-in into the eternal resting place of the Rikyu and all subsequent generations of the Sen family tea masters.

Why Juko-in Garden Became a National Scenic Site

The garden's designation as a National Scenic Site recognizes its exceptional value as a representative example of Momoyama-period garden design and its remarkable state of preservation. Spanning approximately 50 tsubo (roughly 165 square meters), this flat garden south of the main hall demonstrates masterful composition within a modest space.

What distinguishes Hyakuseki-no-Niwa is its distinctive stone arrangement. Running along the hedge that forms the garden's southern boundary, stones are placed in linear groupings from east to west. A stone bridge positioned at the center divides the composition into two groups, with strategic placement of upright stones creating visual rhythm and subtle variations. Despite the relatively small scale of individual stones, the overall effect achieves a compelling sense of both severity and gentleness—qualities that mirror the paradoxical nature of tea aesthetics itself.

The garden's authorship is traditionally attributed to a remarkable collaboration: Kano Eitoku, the young genius of the Kano school of painting, is said to have created the design sketch, while Sen no Rikyu executed the actual garden construction. This partnership between painter and tea master resulted in a garden that functions as a three-dimensional extension of the celebrated fusuma paintings within the main hall.

Highlights and Distinctive Features

The Dialogue Between Garden and Painting

One of the most compelling aspects of Juko-in Garden is its visual relationship with the National Treasure fusuma paintings by Kano Eitoku and his father Matsue within the main hall. The stone arrangements on the western side of the garden are said to correspond with the eastern panels of the famous "Kachō-zu" (Flowers and Birds) paintings in the central room. This integration of indoor and outdoor aesthetics creates a unified artistic experience rarely encountered even in Kyoto's renowned temple gardens.

From White Sand to Moss: Centuries of Transformation

Historical records indicate that during the Meiji period, the garden featured white sand rather than the moss carpet visitors see today. This natural transformation over the centuries has softened the garden's appearance while adding layers of organic texture. The moss covering, while not original, has become integral to the garden's contemporary character and enhances its meditative qualities.

Sen no Rikyu's Sala Tree

On the western side of the garden stands a sala tree (shara), said to have been planted by Rikyu himself. The current tree is the fourth generation descended from the original, maintaining an unbroken connection to the tea master across more than four centuries. The sala tree holds profound Buddhist significance, recalling the trees under which the Buddha attained final nirvana, and its presence adds spiritual depth to the garden's contemplative atmosphere.

Tea Rooms: Kan'in-seki and Masudoko-seki

Adjacent to the garden are two Important Cultural Property tea rooms that further illuminate Juko-in's central place in tea culture. The Kan'in-seki tea room was donated in 1741 by Joshinsai, the seventh-generation head of Omotesenke, on the occasion of Rikyu's 150th memorial anniversary. This intimate 3-tatami room with extremely limited light sources embodies the austere wabi aesthetic championed by Rikyu. The adjacent Masudoko-seki, built approximately 70 years later, offers a contrasting experience with its 4.5-tatami space, distinctive square-shaped alcove, and brighter, more expansive feeling.

Visiting Information: Accessing This Hidden Treasure

Unlike many Kyoto temples, Juko-in is not normally open to the public. The temple holds special public openings (tokubetsu kōkai) periodically, offering rare opportunities to experience this extraordinary garden and its National Treasure paintings. During special exhibitions, the original Kano school fusuma paintings, ordinarily housed at the Kyoto National Museum, return home to Juko-in, allowing visitors to witness the intended harmony between garden and painting.

Monthly memorial services for Sen no Rikyu take place on the 28th of each month, with the three Sen schools taking turns to host the ceremony. Tea practitioners may attend these occasions, which include tea offerings in the historic tea rooms.

Advance reservation through Kyoto Shunju is typically required for special public openings. Visitors are advised to check current information well in advance, as the temple may close on certain days even during public opening periods.

Surrounding Area: Exploring Daitoku-ji and Beyond

A visit to Juko-in naturally invites exploration of the greater Daitoku-ji temple complex, one of Kyoto's most significant Zen monasteries with deep connections to tea culture and warrior patronage. Several other sub-temples offer regular public access, including Ryogen-in, Zuiho-in, and Daisen-in, each featuring distinctive gardens and architectural treasures.

Just north of Daitoku-ji lies Imamiya Shrine, famous for its "omokaru stone" fortune-telling ritual and the beloved aburimochi grilled rice cakes sold at two traditional shops—Ichiwa and Kazariya—that have operated on the shrine's approach for centuries. The combination of temple gardens, shrine visit, and local delicacy offers an ideal half-day itinerary in this atmospheric neighborhood.

Other notable nearby destinations include Kinkaku-ji (Golden Pavilion), approximately 20 minutes by bus, and the textile district of Nishijin, known for its weaving heritage and traditional machiya townhouses.

Q&A

QWhen can I visit Juko-in Garden?
AJuko-in is normally closed to the public and opens only during special public viewing periods (tokubetsu kōkai). These special openings are announced periodically, often lasting several months. The most reliable way to confirm current opening schedules is through Kyoto Shunju's official website or by contacting them directly. Reservations are typically required in advance.
QWhat is the connection between Juko-in and Sen no Rikyu?
ASen no Rikyu studied Zen Buddhism under Shorei Sokin, the founding priest of Juko-in, and later chose this temple as his family temple. Rikyu's grave stands at the center of the cemetery, surrounded by the graves of successive generations of the three Sen schools of tea. He is also credited with designing the garden based on sketches by Kano Eitoku, and the sala tree in the garden is said to be descended from one he planted himself.
QCan I see the National Treasure paintings at Juko-in?
AThe original National Treasure fusuma paintings by Kano Eitoku and Matsue are normally housed at the Kyoto National Museum. High-quality reproductions are displayed in the temple during regular special openings. However, during certain commemorative exhibitions, the original paintings return to Juko-in for limited periods. Check for "Kokuhō Satogaeri" (National Treasure Homecoming) events for opportunities to see the originals in their intended setting.
QIs photography permitted inside Juko-in?
APhotography is generally not permitted inside the main hall or tea rooms to protect the cultural properties and maintain the contemplative atmosphere. Visitors should follow the instructions provided by temple staff during guided tours. Some exterior views may be photographable depending on current policies.
QHow do I get to Juko-in from Kyoto Station?
AThe most efficient route combines subway and bus. Take the Karasuma Line subway from Kyoto Station to Kitaoji Station (approximately 13 minutes). From Kitaoji Bus Terminal, board city bus number 1, 101, 102, 204, 205, or 206 to Daitokuji-mae bus stop (approximately 5 minutes). Juko-in is located in the northern part of the Daitoku-ji complex, about a 7-minute walk from the bus stop.

Basic Information

Name Juko-in (聚光院)
Garden Name Hyakuseki-no-Niwa (百積の庭) / Juko-in Garden
Designation National Scenic Site (designated June 12, 1958)
Garden Area Approximately 577 m² (about 50 tsubo)
Garden Style Karesansui (dry landscape garden), flat garden
Attributed Designer Sen no Rikyu (based on design by Kano Eitoku)
Founded 1566 (Eiroku 9)
Founder Miyoshi Yoshitsugu
Founding Priest Shorei Sokin (107th abbot of Daitoku-ji)
Affiliation Rinzai Zen Buddhism, Daitoku-ji school
Address 58 Daitokuji-cho, Murasakino, Kita-ku, Kyoto
Access 7-minute walk from Daitokuji-mae bus stop (City Bus)
Regular Admission Normally closed to public; special opening periods only
Special Opening Fee Approximately ¥2,000 for adults (varies by event)
Reservations Advance reservation recommended via Kyoto Shunju

References

Cultural Heritage Online - Juko-in Garden (Agency for Cultural Affairs)
https://bunka.nii.ac.jp/db/heritages/detail/163131
Juko-in - Wikipedia (Japanese)
https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/聚光院
Daitoku-ji Juko-in - Soda Kyoto Iko
https://souda-kyoto.jp/guide/spot/daitokuji-jukoin.html
Kyoto Shunju Press Release - Sen no Rikyu 500th Anniversary
https://prtimes.jp/main/html/rd/p/000000008.000063967.html
Daitoku-ji Juko-in Special Opening - Kyoto City Official Tourism Guide
https://ja.kyoto.travel/event/single.php?event_id=6900
Juko-in - Kyoto Encyclopedia
https://www.kyototuu.jp/Temple/JyukouIn.html
Kyoto Side - Sen no Rikyu 500th Anniversary Feature
https://www.kyotoside.jp/entry/20221013/

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