Himeji Castle's Watchtowers: A Journey to Japan's National Treasure Architecture

For international visitors to Himeji Castle, the four watchtowers (watariyagura) that support the main keep are key to understanding the essence of Japanese castle architecture. Named I, Ro, Ha, and Ni, these watchtowers were constructed between 1601 and 1609 by Ikeda Terumasa, forming a unique defensive system that skillfully connects the main keep with three subsidiary keeps—a configuration unparalleled in the world.

The Unique Roles and Features of the Four Watchtowers

Himeji Castle's innovative "interconnected keep complex" (renritsu-shiki tenshu) centers around the 46.4-meter-tall main keep, connected to three smaller keeps through corridor-like structures called watariyagura.

The I-no-Watariyagura connects the main keep to the East Small Keep, designed with the most direct pathway for rapid troop movement. The Ro-no-Watariyagura, linking to the Northwest Small Keep, features the heaviest fortification with complex interior layouts designed to confuse invaders.

The Ha-no-Watariyagura incorporates the Taiko Yagura (drum tower), which historically housed large drums for timekeeping and emergency signals. The Ni-no-Watariyagura uniquely includes attached kitchen facilities (tsuketari daidokoro), demonstrating a seamless integration of practical support functions with military architecture.

Each watchtower contains 50-75 loopholes called "sama" for shooting, with different shapes serving different purposes: circles for rifles, triangles for arrows, and squares or rectangles for various weapons.

Architectural Excellence: Traditional Construction Without Nails

The watchtowers employ traditional Japanese post-and-beam timber framing without using any nails. The primary building material is hinoki cypress, chosen for its structural integrity and longevity, achieving a lifespan of over 400 years.

The distinctive white appearance comes from "shiro-shikkui" plaster—a special mixture of lime, ground hemp fibers, and seaweed starch applied in a 30mm-thick layer. This plaster provides excellent fire resistance while creating the beautiful appearance that earned the castle its nickname "White Heron Castle." During the Heisei restoration from 2009 to 2015, 33,000 craftsmen were involved in a project costing 2.33 billion yen, ensuring these traditional techniques are preserved for future generations.

Viewing Points for International Visitors

For international guests, we recommend starting with a panoramic view of the entire watchtower defensive system from the Western Bailey (Nishinomaru). Bizen Maru offers an excellent photography spot where you can capture the towers framed by pine trees in a classic Japanese composition. Inside, you can actually walk through the watariyagura corridors and experience the defensive features firsthand.

For photography, the 15-30 minutes before the 9:00 AM opening is the best timing. During the golden hour in the evening, the white plaster walls glow magnificently, and the nighttime illumination from sunset to midnight showcases dramatic architectural beauty. During cherry blossom season from late March to early April, 1,000 cherry trees frame the white towers in pink, though we recommend arriving before 8:00 AM to avoid crowds.

Historical Significance in Japanese Castle Architecture

Among Japan's 12 surviving original castles, Himeji's watchtower system remains unique. It embodies a crucial transition in Japanese history—from the aggressive military architecture of the Warring States period to the refined aesthetic sensibilities of the peaceful Edo era.

The Kesho Yagura, where Princess Sen (granddaughter of Tokugawa Ieyasu) resided, was also connected by watchtower corridors, demonstrating how residential functions were balanced with defensive capabilities. Interestingly, despite the sophisticated defensive system with over 1,000 loopholes, Himeji Castle was never attacked in its 400-year history. Its imposing architecture served as a psychological deterrent, achieving the strategy to "win without fighting."

Access and Visitor Information

Just 30 minutes by shinkansen from Osaka or 44 minutes from Kyoto, Himeji Castle makes for an ideal day trip. JR Pass holders should take the Hikari or Kodama trains to Himeji Station. From the station, it's a 15-20 minute walk straight down Otemae-dori Street to the castle.

Current admission is ¥1,000 for adults and ¥300 for children, though prices for international visitors will increase to ¥2,500 in March 2026. The castle opens at 9:00 AM (8:00 AM in summer), closing at 5:00 PM (6:00 PM from June to September).