Nikaido Family Residence: Journey into the Life of Edo Period Samurai

Nestled in the peaceful countryside of Kimotsuki Town on Kagoshima's Osumi Peninsula, the Nikaido Family Residence (二階堂家住宅) stands as one of Japan's most exceptional surviving examples of Edo period samurai architecture. Designated as an Important Cultural Property in 1975, this beautifully preserved thatched-roof dwelling offers visitors a rare glimpse into the daily life of rural samurai nearly 215 years ago.

A Unique Architectural Heritage: The "Buntokata" Style

What makes the Nikaido Residence truly remarkable is its distinctive "buntokata" (separated building) architectural style, found only in southern Kagoshima Prefecture. The property consists of two connected buildings: the "Omote" (おもて), a formal reception hall for receiving guests, and the "Nakae" (なかえ), the everyday living quarters where the family cooked, ate, and carried out daily activities.

These two structures are joined at right angles in what is called a "ganko-gata" (staggered) layout, creating an elegant L-shaped configuration. The thatched roofs, crafted from carefully bundled miscanthus grass, sweep gracefully over the buildings in the traditional "yosemune-zukuri" (hip roof) style. Only two other thatched-roof samurai residences from the Satsuma domain survive today, making this property exceptionally precious.

Why Was It Designated an Important Cultural Property?

The Nikaido Family Residence earned its designation as an Important Cultural Property for several compelling reasons. First, it represents the most developed form of the separated-building folk house style found within the former Satsuma domain. The construction is notably large in scale and demonstrates exceptional craftsmanship in its timber work and joinery.

The Omote building, believed to have been constructed around 1810 (Bunka 7), features a formal "tokonoma" alcove with decorative shelving that reflects the refined aesthetic sensibilities of samurai culture. The careful attention to detail throughout the residence—from the sturdy bamboo eaves harvested from the property's own grove to the precisely fitted wooden components—speaks to the high status of the family who commissioned it.

Furthermore, the residence preserves the original character of regional folk architecture remarkably well, providing invaluable insights into how rural samurai lived during the late Edo period.

The Legacy of the Nikaido Clan

The history of the Nikaido family stretches back over 800 years to the Kamakura period (1185-1333). Originally based in a district called "Nikaido" in Kamakura, the family was dispatched to Satsuma Province (present-day Kagoshima) in the 13th century to serve as regional administrators. They later came under the authority of the powerful Shimazu clan and were relocated to this area, where they served as "goshi" (rural samurai) responsible for local governance.

Interestingly, the family originally had connections to the yamabushi mountain ascetic tradition and was involved in educational activities throughout the Edo period. The residence was known locally as "Dairinbo Yashiki" (大林坊屋敷), reflecting these religious roots.

The most famous member of the Nikaido family was Nikaido Susumu (1909-2000), a prominent postwar politician who served as Chief Cabinet Secretary and held other important government positions. The residence remained his family home until it was opened to the public. Today, his son maintains ownership of the property while living in Tokyo, and the historic home welcomes visitors who wish to experience this unique piece of Japanese heritage.

Highlights for Visitors

Walking through the Nikaido Residence is like stepping back in time. The immaculately maintained garden features stone lanterns reminiscent of those at Sengan-en, the famous Shimazu clan villa in Kagoshima City. A bronze statue of Nikaido Susumu stands in the garden, commemorating the family's most distinguished member.

Inside, visitors can observe the practical yet dignified layout of a samurai household. The contrast between the formal Omote building, with its raised floors and ceremonial spaces, and the more functional Nakae, with its earthen-floored kitchen and living areas, illustrates the dual nature of samurai life—one foot in ceremonial duty, the other in everyday practicality.

The massive thatched roof, completely restored in 2016 using durable "yamagaya" (mountain miscanthus) from the Aso region of Kumamoto Prefecture, demonstrates traditional roofing techniques that have been passed down for generations. The thick bamboo supports visible under the eaves were all harvested from the bamboo grove directly behind the residence.

Nearby Attractions

Kimotsuki Town offers several other fascinating cultural and natural attractions that can easily be combined with a visit to the Nikaido Residence.

Just minutes away, the Tsukasaki Kofun cluster features 44 ancient burial mounds dating from the 4th to 5th centuries, including five keyhole-shaped tombs representing Japan's southernmost examples of this type. Rising from one of these tombs is the magnificent Tsukasaki no Kusu, a giant camphor tree estimated to be over 1,300 years old and designated as a National Natural Monument.

The nearby Shijukusho Shrine, founded in 984, hosts the Takayama Yabusame Festival every October. This 900-year-old tradition of horseback archery is unique in that the archer is always a local junior high school student, chosen annually to undergo intensive training before performing this sacred ritual.

For space enthusiasts, the JAXA Uchinoura Space Center is located in the same town, offering tours of Japan's pioneering rocket launch facility. The area also features excellent hot spring facilities at Takayama Onsen Dome, perfect for relaxing after a day of sightseeing.

Best Time to Visit

The Nikaido Residence is beautiful throughout the year, but each season offers its own charm. Spring brings fresh green growth to the surrounding gardens and bamboo groves. Summer's lush vegetation provides a cool, verdant backdrop to the thatched buildings. Autumn colors transform the landscape, and the October Yabusame Festival creates a festive atmosphere in the area. Even winter has its appeal, when the quiet grounds and bare trees allow visitors to appreciate the architectural details without distraction.

If you plan to visit during the Takayama Yabusame Festival (third Sunday of October), be sure to arrive early to secure a good viewing spot for the horseback archery performances.