The Timeless Beauty of Spiral Elegance

Deep in the mountains of Wakayama Prefecture, in the town of Katsuragi, Niutsuhime Shrine preserves an exceptionally beautiful National Treasure. The Gindo Hirumaki Tachi Goshirae (Silver-Copper Spiral-Wrapped Sword Mounting) — though its name is complex, once seen, its beauty is unforgettable. This masterpiece dates from the late Heian to early Kamakura period.

Why Is It Called "Hirumaki"?

The unique name "hirumaki" (leech-wrapping) derives from the spiral pattern resembling a leech's body. The technique of spirally wrapping silver-plated copper strips around black-lacquered handles and scabbards represented the pinnacle of metalworking technology of its time. Today, only a few complete hirumaki swords remain in Japan, and their rarity has earned them National Treasure status.

From Court Nobles to Warriors: The Evolution of the Sword

This sword mounting embodies the transition from court culture to warrior culture. During the Heian period, nobles wore decorative swords with their formal court dress (sokutai). These were artistic pieces that demonstrated status and refinement rather than practical weapons. However, as the age of warriors dawned, both beauty and battlefield functionality became essential. The Gindo Hirumaki Tachi Goshirae perfectly combines both qualities.

The Harmony of Light and Shadow Created by Master Craftsmanship

Imagine the creation process. First, cloth is wrapped around a wooden core, then multiple layers of black lacquer are applied. After complete drying, silver-plated copper strips are wound spirally at a precise angle. The accuracy of this angle and spacing determines the beauty — truly divine skill that allows no margin for error.

The cold gleam of silver against the deep luster of black lacquer creates a visual rhythm that reveals different expressions depending on viewing angle and lighting. This is a charm that photographs can never convey, unique to the actual artifact.

Niutsuhime Shrine: Guardian Deity of Mount Koya

The shrine housing this National Treasure is dedicated to the deity Niutsuhime-no-Okami, who is said to have granted the land when Kobo Daishi Kukai founded Mount Koya. With a history spanning over 1,700 years, it is known as the "Guardian Deity of Mount Koya" due to its deep connection with the sacred mountain.

The shrine grounds display seasonal beauty throughout the year. Cherry blossoms and wisteria in spring, autumn foliage along the approach, and winter's snow coating create spectacular scenes. The Hanamori Festival in April features elegant rituals reminiscent of the Heian period.

Combined Tourism with World Heritage Mount Koya

Mount Koya, about 30 minutes by car from Niutsuhime Shrine, is registered as a World Heritage site as the sacred center of Shingon Buddhism. Attractions include Kongobuji Temple, Danjo Garan, and Okunoin, while 51 temple lodgings offer shojin ryori (Buddhist vegetarian cuisine) and morning prayer experiences.

Walking the Koyasan Choishi-michi pilgrimage trail, you can experience the 24-kilometer route from Niutsuhime Shrine to Mount Koya. With 180 stone markers as guides, you can trace this path of faith maintained for over a millennium. For those with strong legs, it's about a 7-hour journey with an exceptional sense of accomplishment.

Advice for International Visitors

Access is somewhat complex, but this makes it a precious opportunity to encounter Japan's original landscapes. From JR Kaseda Station, it's about 30 minutes by community bus. Service is limited, but enjoying the peaceful mountain village scenery during the journey is part of the travel experience.

For accommodation, Mount Koya's temple lodgings are recommended. Some temples like Ekoin offer English support, and the shojin ryori is completely vegetarian, suitable for vegans. Priced from 10,000 to 50,000 yen per night with two meals, it provides a special experience of Japanese Buddhist culture.

Encountering a National Treasure

The Gindo Hirumaki Tachi Goshirae is not permanently displayed. For preservation reasons, special exhibitions occur only once every 4-5 years. However, this makes the emotion of encountering the actual piece even more special. Opportunities for viewing at Tokyo National Museum and other venues also arise, so checking exhibition information is recommended.

This National Treasure is not merely a weapon. Transcending a thousand years, it is a living cultural property that conveys Japanese aesthetics, craftsman's pride, and the samurai spirit to the present day. The beauty of the silver and black spiral will surely leave a deep impression on your heart.