A Masterpiece of Japanese Ceramic Art: The National Treasure Tea Jar at MOA Museum

Perched high above Atami's sparkling coastline, the MOA Museum of Art houses one of Japan's most exquisite ceramic treasures - the Color-Decorated Tea Jar with Wisteria Design by Nonomura Ninsei. This 17th-century masterpiece, designated as a National Treasure in 1951, represents the pinnacle of Japanese ceramic artistry and continues to captivate visitors from around the world.

The Artist's Revolutionary Vision

Nonomura Ninsei, active during the mid-17th century, revolutionized Japanese ceramics by elevating pottery from functional craft to fine art. Born in what is now Kyoto Prefecture, Ninsei established his kiln near Ninna-ji Temple around 1647, where he perfected the technique of overglaze enamel decoration that would define Kyoto ceramics for centuries to come.

What makes this tea jar extraordinary is not just its beauty, but its technical perfection. Standing at 28.8 cm tall, the vessel demonstrates Ninsei's mastery of the potter's wheel - its walls are uniformly thin throughout, a remarkable achievement for such a large piece. The perfectly spherical form provides an ideal canvas for the cascading wisteria blossoms that seem to float across its surface.

A Three-Dimensional Painting

The decoration of this tea jar transcends traditional ceramic ornamentation. Purple wisteria clusters cascade naturally down the curved surface, intertwined with red vines and green leaves detailed with delicate needle-etched veins. Gold and silver accents add luminosity and depth, creating what scholars call a "three-dimensional painting." The composition maintains perfect balance from every viewing angle - a 360-degree masterpiece that challenges the boundaries between painting and ceramics.

The jar bears Ninsei's large seal on its base, marking one of the first instances in Japanese ceramic history where an artist claimed authorship of their work. This simple act transformed the status of ceramic artists and established the concept of artistic identity in Japanese pottery.

A Modern Museum Experience

The MOA Museum underwent a dramatic renovation in 2017 under the direction of contemporary artist Hiroshi Sugimoto and architect Tomoyuki Sakakida. The result is a harmonious blend of traditional Japanese aesthetics and contemporary design. Ninsei's tea jar now resides in a specially designed room with black plaster walls (known as "Edo black"), where carefully calibrated lighting reveals every nuance of the colored enamels and metallic decoration.

Reaching the museum is an experience in itself. Seven escalators carry visitors up 60 meters through the mountainside, culminating in a circular hall with a mesmerizing kaleidoscope ceiling. The main lobby's 32-meter-wide window frames panoramic views of Sagami Bay, creating a dialogue between art and nature that defines the MOA experience.

Beyond the Museum: Atami's Cultural Landscape

The museum's location in Atami adds another dimension to the cultural experience. This historic hot spring resort, just 45 minutes from Tokyo by bullet train, has been a retreat for artists and intellectuals for centuries. Visitors can extend their cultural journey by exploring Atami's numerous hot spring baths, the early-blooming plum garden with 469 trees of 60 varieties, or the illuminated Atami Sun Beach.

The museum itself offers multiple dining options, including the acclaimed La Pâtisserie du musée par Toshi Yoroizuka, where French pastries are served on lacquerware created by Living National Treasure Kazumi Murose. The traditional restaurant Hana-no-Chaya provides kaiseki cuisine with garden views, perfect for contemplating the artistic experiences of the day.

Planning Your Visit

The MOA Museum welcomes visitors from 9:30 to 16:30 (last entry at 16:00), closed Thursdays except holidays. Admission is 2,000 yen for adults, with audio guides available in English. Photography is permitted for personal use, including the National Treasure tea jar, though flash and tripods are prohibited.

The best seasons to visit are spring (March-May) when cherry blossoms frame the museum grounds, and autumn (October-November) for the stunning fall foliage. February offers a special opportunity to see Ogata Korin's National Treasure "Red and White Plum Blossoms" screen alongside Ninsei's tea jar.

For international visitors, the museum provides English signage for major works and free Wi-Fi throughout the facility. The dedicated bus from Atami Station takes just 7 minutes, making it easily accessible for a day trip from Tokyo or as part of a longer stay in this historic resort town.

A Living Heritage

What makes Ninsei's tea jar truly remarkable is its ability to speak across centuries. Created during Japan's Edo period for tea ceremony aesthetics, it continues to inspire contemporary artists and designers. The museum's presentation in the modern black-walled gallery doesn't distance the work from its historical context but rather emphasizes its timeless beauty and relevance.

The wisteria, a symbol of grace and welcome in Japanese culture, seems particularly appropriate for a vessel meant to store tea - itself a symbol of hospitality and refinement. In viewing this masterpiece, visitors don't just see a beautiful object; they encounter the essence of Japanese aesthetic philosophy where function and beauty, tradition and innovation, merge in perfect harmony.