Discovering Ankokuji Temple's Kyozo: Hida's Only National Treasure

Hidden in the peaceful countryside of Takayama's Kokufu district stands a remarkable testament to medieval Japanese Buddhist architecture—the Ankokuji Temple Kyozo (Scripture House). Built in 1408, this unassuming wooden structure represents far more than its modest exterior suggests. As Hida region's only National Treasure building and one of just three designated National Treasure sutra repositories in Japan (alongside those at Horyuji and Toshodaiji temples), this 600-year-old architectural gem offers visitors a rare glimpse into the sophisticated engineering and spiritual devotion of Japan's Muromachi period.

While most international tourists flock to Takayama's famous old town and morning markets, those who venture just 14 kilometers from the city center to Ankokuji Temple are rewarded with an authentic cultural experience free from crowds. Here, in this tranquil setting, stands a building that has survived wars, fires, and centuries of change, preserving within it Japan's oldest rotating sutra library—a mechanical marvel that continues to function after more than six centuries.

The Historical Significance of Ankokuji Temple

Ankokuji Temple's story begins in 1347, during a turbulent period in Japanese history. The temple was established as part of a nationwide network of Ankokuji temples commissioned by Ashikaga Takauji and his brother Tadayoshi, the founders of the Muromachi shogunate. Following the devastating conflicts of the Northern and Southern Courts period, these temples were built across Japan's 66 provinces to pray for the souls of those who had perished in battle and to bring peace to the nation.

In Hida Province, the existing Shorinji Temple was designated as the regional Ankokuji, with its name officially changed and the renowned priest Zuigan invited from Kyoto's Nanzenji Temple to serve as its founding abbot. At its zenith, the temple complex boasted seven main halls and nine sub-temples, establishing it as one of the region's most important religious centers.

However, the temple's fortunes changed dramatically during the Sengoku period. Caught between warring factions—the Miki clan allied with Uesugi and the Hirose clan supporting Takeda—Ankokuji suffered devastating fires in both the Tenbun era (1532-1555) and the Eiroku era (1558-1570). Miraculously, while most of the temple buildings were destroyed, the Kyozo scripture house, the founder's hall, and the guardian Kumano Shrine survived these calamities.

Architectural Marvel: Understanding the Kyozo's Design

The Ankokuji Kyozo exemplifies the sophisticated Zen-style (Zenshuyo) architecture that flourished during the Muromachi period. Measuring modest in size with a hip-and-gable roof covered in traditional cypress bark shingles, the structure demonstrates a masterful blend of Chinese-influenced Zen architectural principles with distinctly Japanese aesthetic sensibilities.

What makes this building architecturally significant is its elegant simplicity combined with structural sophistication. The Kyozo employs a unique construction method where the main structure (moya) appears to have three bays on each side from the exterior, but actually consists of a single-bay core surrounded by a lean-to corridor (mokoshi). This creates the illusion of a larger building while maintaining structural integrity through four central pillars that support the entire weight of the structure and its precious contents.

Unlike more ornate Zen temples that feature densely arranged bracket complexes and fan-shaped rafters, the Ankokuji Kyozo displays a restrained aesthetic with sparse bracketing and parallel rafters. This minimalist approach, unusual for its time, speaks to the local craftsmen's confidence in their engineering skills and represents a uniquely regional interpretation of continental Buddhist architecture.

The Rotating Wonder: Japan's Oldest Rinzo

The true treasure of the Kyozo lies within—the octagonal rotating sutra cabinet known as a rinzo (wheel repository). Dating from 1408, this is the oldest surviving example of a rotating sutra library in Japan, predating similar structures by centuries. The engineering behind this ancient mechanism remains remarkably sophisticated: a single central pillar supports the entire octagonal bookshelf, which can still be rotated smoothly despite weighing several tons when fully loaded with sutras.

What's most remarkable is that this mechanism operates without any modern bearings or complex machinery—just the perfect balance of weight distribution and the skilled craftsmanship of Hida's legendary carpenters. The rinzo contains approximately 2,200 volumes of Buddhist sutras that remain from an original collection of 5,397 scrolls. These precious texts have a fascinating history: they were acquired by a monk named Hon'en who traveled to China during the Yuan Dynasty, spending three years collecting these sutras from the Daifuneiji Temple in Hangzhou before carefully transporting them back to Japan.

According to Buddhist tradition, rotating the rinzo once while maintaining a sincere and devotional mindset grants the same spiritual merit as reading all the sutras contained within—a practical solution for devotees who couldn't read the complex Chinese texts or dedicate years to studying the entire Buddhist canon.

Why Ankokuji Kyozo Became a National Treasure

The designation of Ankokuji Kyozo as a National Treasure reflects multiple layers of cultural and historical significance. First designated as a Special Protection Building under the old preservation law in 1909, it was elevated to National Treasure status in 1963 under Japan's current Cultural Properties Protection Law.

Several factors contributed to this prestigious designation. As Hida region's only National Treasure building, it represents the pinnacle of regional architectural achievement. The structure serves as one of only three sutra repositories in Japan to achieve National Treasure status, placing it alongside the legendary temples of Horyuji and Toshodaiji in Nara. Its rinzo mechanism stands as the oldest dated example of a rotating sutra library in Japan, making it invaluable for understanding medieval Japanese engineering and religious practices.

Perhaps most importantly, the Kyozo represents the perfect synthesis of form and function—a building designed not just to store sacred texts but to make them spiritually accessible to all believers, regardless of literacy or social status. This democratic approach to religious merit, embodied in the rotating mechanism, reflects the populist Buddhist movements of the medieval period.

Visiting Ankokuji Temple: A Hidden Cultural Gem

Located in Takayama's Kokufu district, approximately 14 kilometers from the city center, Ankokuji Temple offers a serene alternative to the crowded tourist sites of central Takayama. The temple sits in a valley surrounded by forested mountains, creating an atmosphere of timeless tranquility that has remained unchanged for centuries.

Visitors should note that viewing the interior of the Kyozo and its rotating rinzo requires advance reservation by calling the temple at 0577-72-2173. The admission fee of 500 yen includes a guided explanation (primarily in Japanese) about the building's history and the opportunity to witness the rinzo mechanism. Even without entering, the exterior of this National Treasure can be appreciated from the temple grounds, and the peaceful atmosphere alone makes the journey worthwhile.

The best times to visit are during spring when cherry blossoms frame the ancient buildings, or in autumn when the surrounding mountains burst into brilliant reds and golds. Early morning visits are recommended for photography, as soft light filters through the morning mist, creating an ethereal atmosphere around this architectural treasure.

Exploring the Surrounding Area

The Kokufu area offers several attractions that can be combined with a visit to Ankokuji Temple, making for a rewarding day trip from Takayama city center. Just behind the temple, the Senshin no Mori (Forest of Purified Hearts) nature trail provides a network of walking paths through pristine mountain forests. The trail includes 1,000 stone steps and various pilgrimage routes, including representations of the 33 Kannon pilgrimage sites of Western Japan.

A 15-minute drive from the temple brings you to Utsuekumo Waterfall (48 Waterfalls of Utsuue), a prefectural natural park featuring a series of cascading waterfalls along a 1.2-kilometer mountain trail. After exploring the falls, visitors can relax at the nearby Shibuki-no-Yu hot spring facility, which offers both indoor and outdoor baths with views of the surrounding mountains.

For those interested in more cultural sites, the nearby Arita Shrine and Kumano Shrine (the guardian shrine of Ankokuji) both feature Important Cultural Property designated buildings from the same historical period. The Kokufu area is also known for its traditional sake breweries and local crafts, providing opportunities to experience rural Japanese culture away from tourist crowds.

Access and Practical Information

Ankokuji Temple is accessible by multiple transportation methods. From JR Takayama Station, take a bus bound for Kokufu and get off at Kokufu Shisho-mae (about 30 minutes), then walk 10 minutes to the temple. Alternatively, a taxi from Takayama Station takes approximately 20 minutes and costs around 3,500-4,000 yen. For those driving, take Route 41 from Takayama toward Kokufu (about 20 minutes), with free parking available at the temple.

The nearest train station is Hida-Kokufu Station on the JR Takayama Main Line, located about 5 kilometers from the temple. From the station, taxis are available, or visitors can enjoy a scenic 60-minute walk through rural farmland and traditional villages. For cyclists, rental bicycles are available in Takayama, and the route to Ankokuji offers pleasant countryside cycling with moderate hills.