Eiheiji Zen Retreat & Awara Onsen Healing: A Spiritual Journey in Fukui

Hi, I'm Hana! Today I want to share a journey that gently resets your heart and mind. It's a combination of Zen meditation at Eiheiji Temple and soothing hot springs at Awara Onsen in Fukui Prefecture. Ready to step away from daily routines and reconnect with yourself?

What Makes Eiheiji Temple Special?

Eiheiji Temple, founded in 1244 by Zen Master Dogen, is the head temple of the Soto school of Zen Buddhism. Located about 30 minutes by car from Fukui City, this sacred training monastery sits deep in the mountains, surrounded by centuries-old cedar trees.

The moment I first walked through the main gate, I felt the air change. The cool, pure atmosphere mixed with distant chanting created an immediate sense of calm. All the rushing thoughts from everyday life just... faded away.

The temple complex is connected by covered corridors, and as you walk through the historic buildings like the Dharma Hall and Buddha Hall, you can sense the daily life of the training monks. The polished wooden floors, neatly arranged wooden clogs, quietly opening and closing sliding doors—every detail embodies the spirit of Zen.

Zen Practice Programs to Center Your Mind

Beyond regular temple visits, Eiheiji offers short-term practice programs including morning services and sutra copying. My personal recommendation? The early morning zazen (seated meditation) session.

The Zazen Experience

Joining the morning service (choka) around 5 AM means sitting in meditation alongside training monks in the still-dark hall. At first, you might notice your legs getting numb or wandering thoughts, but accepting yourself as you are is part of the Zen learning process.

Staff members kindly teach proper sitting posture and breathing techniques, so first-timers feel completely comfortable. Don't force yourself to achieve a "blank mind"—just focus on your breathing. After about 20 minutes, you'll notice your head feels surprisingly clear.

Sutra Copying for Focus

Shakyo (sutra copying) involves carefully transcribing Buddhist texts like the Heart Sutra, one character at a time. Holding the brush, surrounded by the scent of ink, helps you forget your digital-saturated daily life.

Approaching each character mindfully naturally regulates your breathing and calms your mind. You can dedicate your completed sutra as an offering, or keep it as a personal talisman.

Temple Etiquette and Dress Code

As Eiheiji is an active training monastery, please observe these guidelines:

Clothing tips:

Choose modest clothing that covers shoulders and knees
Wear shoes that slip on and off easily (you'll be removing them often)
Layer up in winter—the temple grounds get quite cold

Temple manners:

Do not touch Buddha statues, sutras, or temple implements. Avoid pointing your feet toward them when seated
Photography only in designated areas, no flash
Keep conversations quiet
Follow designated visitor paths without disturbing monks
Turn off mobile phones inside halls

Awara Onsen: Soothing Body and Soul

After centering your mind at Eiheiji, head to Awara Onsen, Fukui's premier hot spring resort—about 40 minutes by car.

Established in 1883, Awara Onsen boasts abundant hot spring water with gentle, weakly alkaline mineral content. The springs are famous for leaving skin silky smooth—earning the nickname "beauty bath."

Exploring the Hot Spring Town

The resort area features various ryokan, each with distinct character and charm.

Luxury ryokan: Enjoy private time in rooms with open-air baths. The winter-limited Echizen crab full-course meals showcase the ocean's finest treasures. The sweet, delicate meat and rich crab miso create flavors that make you gasp with delight.

Modern Japanese-style ryokan: Mid-range accommodations offer "bath hopping" through multiple baths within the property—outdoor baths, cypress baths, stone baths, each with unique appeal. After dinner, the sake bar serves Fukui's local brews while you chat with other guests and staff.

Traditional onsen inns: Even budget-friendly options offer heartfelt hospitality with home-cooked meals by the innkeeper using local ingredients. These homestyle flavors warm your heart.

A Special Evening with Traditional Arts

Some ryokan offer dinner entertainment featuring geigi (traditional female entertainers) performing shamisen music and Echizen Oi folk songs. This traditional art form, passed down through generations in the steaming hot spring town, creates a luxurious experience for eyes and ears.

The graceful movements of the geigi and the melodies of shamisen embody the essence of Japanese hospitality. You can savor your meal slowly while appreciating the depth of traditional culture.

Advance reservation is often required, so check when booking your accommodation.

Ideal Itinerary: Zen & Hot Springs

Here's my recommended 2-night, 3-day plan:

Day 1:

Afternoon: Arrive at Fukui Station, travel to Eiheiji
Around 3:00 PM: Temple visit (1.5-2 hours)
Around 5:00 PM: Check in at Awara Onsen
Around 6:00 PM: Dinner, relax in hot springs

Day 2:

Early morning 5:00 AM: Morning service at Eiheiji (optional)
Around 9:00 AM: Sutra copying or temple grounds walk
Around 12:00 PM: Lunch in Fukui City
Afternoon: Sightseeing at Tojinbo cliffs or Mikuni Minato
Evening: Return to ryokan for hot spring soaking
Night: Geigi performance (optional)

Day 3:

Morning: Morning bath and breakfast
Around 10:00 AM: Check out
Morning: Explore around Awara Onsen Station, buy souvenirs
Noon: Head to Fukui Station for departure

Seasonal Highlights

Spring (March-May): Fresh greenery envelops Eiheiji's grounds. Cherry blossoms add color to the hot spring town.

Summer (June-August): Deep green and cool breezes feel refreshing. Morning meditation is especially pleasant.

Autumn (September-November): Fall foliage makes Eiheiji most beautiful. Peak colors arrive mid-November.

Winter (December-February): Snow-covered Eiheiji resembles ink paintings. Echizen crab season brings the most lavish ryokan meals.

Packing Checklist

Must-bring items:

Comfortable, easy on-and-off shoes
Clothing covering shoulders and knees
Thick socks (Eiheiji gets cold underfoot in winter)
Camera (confirm photography-allowed areas)

Nice to have:

Small backpack or shoulder bag
Temple stamp book (goshuincho—available at Eiheiji)
Writing supplies (for sutra copying, though available for borrowing)
Personal towel for hot springs (provided by ryokan, but if you prefer your own)

Access Information

Public Transportation:

Fukui Station to Eiheiji: About 30 minutes by bus
Eiheiji to Awara Onsen: About 1 hour by bus and train

By Car:

Fukui Kita IC to Eiheiji: About 15 minutes
Eiheiji to Awara Onsen: About 40 minutes

There's no direct bus between Eiheiji and Awara Onsen, so car access is smoothest. Rental cars are recommended.

Booking Tips

Eiheiji practice programs:

Regular temple visits require no reservation (500 yen admission)
Morning services and sutra copying may require advance application—check the official website

Awara Onsen accommodations:

Book early for Echizen crab season (November-March)
Request geigi entertainment at least 2 weeks ahead
Mention allergies and dietary preferences when booking
More ryokan now offer English support—confirm in advance if needed

Rainy Day Plans

Rainy days at Eiheiji have their own charm. The wet stone paths and sound of rain during meditation create a different atmosphere from sunny days.

At the onsen ryokan, rainy days are perfect for thorough bath soaking. Reading, napping, or enjoying the property's relaxation facilities makes for a leisurely stay.

Final Thoughts

The Zen experience at Eiheiji combined with Awara Onsen's healing resets both mind and body. Facing yourself in silence, then nurturing your body with hot springs and delicious food—it's time to care for yourself that busy daily life often pushes aside. Please come discover it in Fukui.

Zen teachings don't need to be complicated. Just being present, breathing, and feeling this moment—that's enough. Soaking in Awara's warm waters, that moment when you think "ah, this was a wonderful trip" will surely arrive.

May your journey become a cherished memory.

FAQ

Q1: Do I need reservations to visit Eiheiji Temple?

A: Regular temple visits require no reservation and are open from 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM (500 yen admission). However, special practice programs like morning services and sutra copying require advance application. Check and book through Eiheiji's official website or phone. Group visits should also notify in advance.

Q2: Can families with children enjoy Eiheiji and Awara Onsen?

A: Absolutely! However, since Eiheiji is an active training monastery, please ask children to maintain quiet during the visit. There are many stairs and steps, so for young children, prepare baby carriers or strollers (some areas may restrict stroller use). Many Awara Onsen ryokan prepare children's meals and yukata. Mentioning children's ages when booking ensures smooth arrangements.

Q3: When is Echizen crab season, and what's the price range?

A: Echizen crab fishing season runs from early November through late March. The peak flavor period is December through February. Prices vary greatly by ryokan and plan, but full-course meals typically range from 30,000 to 50,000 yen per person. Though expensive, it's absolutely worth it! Other seafood dishes are also delicious, so choose according to your budget.

Q4: Are English-speaking staff available?

A: Larger Awara Onsen ryokan increasingly have English-speaking staff. However, smaller inns may offer Japanese only. Confirm English availability when booking. Eiheiji provides English pamphlets and signage, and staff kindly help with gestures, so basic tourism works smoothly even without Japanese fluency.

Q5: Can solo travelers book accommodations?

A: Yes, solo travelers are welcome! Awara Onsen increasingly offers solo travel plans. However, weekends and peak seasons may limit solo bookings, so weekdays work better. Some ryokan feature private dining rooms for solo guests or bars where you can mingle with other travelers. The combination of Zen practice and hot springs perfectly suits those wanting quality alone time for self-reflection.