Komyobo Thirteen-Story Stone Pagoda: A Kamakura-Era Masterpiece on Ikuchijima Island
Rising 8.5 meters above the tranquil grounds of Komyobo Temple on Ikuchijima Island, the Thirteen-Story Stone Pagoda (十三重塔) stands as one of Japan's finest examples of Kamakura-period stone craftsmanship. Designated as an Important Cultural Property of Japan, this granite tower has watched over the Seto Inland Sea for more than 730 years, carrying the prayers and artistic vision of medieval Buddhist monks into the present day.
Located in the Setoda district of Onomichi City, Hiroshima Prefecture, this remarkable monument sits along the famed Shimanami Kaido cycling route, offering travelers a rare opportunity to encounter a deeply authentic piece of Japanese cultural heritage in a serene island setting far removed from the bustle of major tourist destinations.
The History of Komyobo Temple
Komyobo Temple, formally known as Komyo Sanmai-in, is a Shingon Buddhist temple belonging to the Sennyuji school. According to temple tradition, it was founded in 730 (Tenpyo 2) by the monk Gyoki at the imperial decree of Emperor Shomu. This places Komyobo among the oldest temples on Ikuchijima Island.
During the late Heian period, Princess Nyonen, a daughter of Emperor Go-Shirakawa, entered the temple. In recognition of this connection, Emperor Go-Shirakawa granted the southern district of Ikuchijima as temple lands, bringing considerable prosperity to the area. The settlement surrounding the temple became known as "Mitera" (literally "honorable temple"), a name the district still carries today.
The temple also holds deep ties to the Pure Land Buddhist tradition. It is said that the monk Honen himself once enshrined a wooden statue he had carved at this temple. Among its many treasures, the temple possesses the Peacock Makie Sutra Box (孔雀戧金経箱), an Important Cultural Property currently held in trust at the Tokyo National Museum, as well as its principal image, a seated Amida Nyorai statue that is also designated as an Important Cultural Property.
The Thirteen-Story Stone Pagoda: Construction and Significance
The Thirteen-Story Stone Pagoda was erected in 1294 (Einin 2), during the late Kamakura period. An inscription carved into the base stone records this date along with a significant notation: it was the 2,243rd year since the passing of Shakyamuni Buddha. This practice of recording the years since the Buddha's death reflects the Mappo thought prevalent during the Heian and Kamakura periods — the belief that the world had entered the "Latter Day of the Law," making acts of devotion such as building pagodas particularly urgent.
The pagoda is traditionally attributed to the eminent Ritsu school monk Ninsho, a disciple of Eison from Saidaiji Temple in Nara. Ninsho was renowned throughout medieval Japan not only for his religious activities but also for his remarkable social welfare work, including building hospitals, roads, and bridges to serve the poor and the sick. The construction of stone pagodas was part of his broader mission to spread Buddhist teachings and generate spiritual merit across the country.
The name of the master craftsman, Shin'a (心阿), is inscribed on a pedestal stone on the western side of the pagoda. This same craftsman's name appears on other significant stone monuments of the era, including the Hakone Hokyointo pagoda (1300) and the Anyoin Hokyointo pagoda in Kamakura (1308), indicating that Shin'a was a skilled stone mason active across a wide geographic range during this period.
Why It Was Designated an Important Cultural Property
The Komyobo Thirteen-Story Stone Pagoda was designated as an Important Cultural Property of Japan on April 25, 1927. Several qualities contribute to its exceptional cultural and historical value.
Carved from local granite, the pagoda demonstrates the bold, powerful aesthetic characteristic of Kamakura-period stone craft. The eaves of each tier are notably thick and exhibit a strong upward curve (nokizori), creating a sense of dynamic energy and structural confidence. This pronounced curvature is considered a hallmark of the finest stone pagodas from this era.
On the four faces of the first-story shaft, Sanskrit seed syllables (shuji) representing the Four Buddhas of the Diamond Realm are carved within moon circles atop lotus pedestals. These include Kiriku (Amida), Aku (Fukujoju), Un (Ashuku), and Taraku (Hosho). The carvings employ the yakenbori technique — a V-shaped incision method that produces sharp, clean lines — and are praised for their vigorous, confident brushwork translated into stone.
At the top of the first-story roof, a central cavity was found to contain sutras and other ritual objects, a practice known as horoana that reveals the pagoda's function as a sacred reliquary. The finial (sorin) at the top retains its original form, with only the uppermost jewel (hoshu) having been replaced during the Meiji era.
The combination of a precisely documented construction date, identified craftsman, clear Buddhist iconographic program, and outstanding artistic quality makes this pagoda a representative masterwork of Kamakura-period stone architecture.
Highlights and What to See
Visitors entering through the temple gate will find the Thirteen-Story Stone Pagoda standing immediately to the right. Its commanding height and elegant proportions make it an impressive sight even from a distance. Take time to walk around the pagoda slowly, examining the Sanskrit seed syllables on each face and appreciating the powerful curves of the stone eaves.
Beyond the pagoda, the temple grounds hold additional points of interest. The Ibuki Byakushin (Chinese Juniper) tree, designated as a Hiroshima Prefectural Natural Monument, is estimated to be over 650 years old and carries a legend connecting it to a sandalwood tree. Its distinctive twisted form adds a timeless quality to the grounds.
Five-ring stone stupas (gorinto) within the precinct are said to mark the graves of Princess Nyonen, the monk Honen, and the court ladies Matsumushi and Suzumushi — figures who lend a poetic dimension to the temple's history.
The Nehan-e ceremony, held annually on the last Sunday of March, draws worshippers from across the region. A children's procession (chigo gyoretsu) passes through the streets, and monks from various temples gather to chant sutras, while market stalls line the approach road in a tradition that evokes the atmosphere of an old-fashioned Japanese temple fair.
Surrounding Area and Nearby Attractions
Ikuchijima Island offers a wealth of experiences for visitors beyond Komyobo Temple. The island is famous as Japan's leading lemon producer, and the scent of citrus orchards accompanies travelers along its quiet coastal roads.
Kosanji Temple and Museum, often called the "Nikko of the West" for its ornate architecture, displays registered tangible cultural properties alongside the striking marble garden sculpture park known as the Hill of Hope (Miraishin no Oka). The adjacent Hirayama Ikuo Museum of Art showcases the works of the celebrated painter born in Setoda in 1930.
The Setoda Sunset Beach, located on the island's western coast, stretches 800 meters and is recognized as one of Japan's 88 finest swimming beaches. Visitors can enjoy sea kayaking, SUP, and cycling, while the sunset views across the Seto Inland Sea are among the most celebrated in the region.
The entire island forms part of the Shimanami Kaido, the famous cycling route connecting Onomichi in Hiroshima Prefecture to Imabari in Ehime Prefecture across a chain of islands. Cycling around Ikuchijima reveals outdoor art installations from the "Island-Wide Museum" project scattered along the coastline.
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Q&A
- What exactly is the Komyobo Thirteen-Story Stone Pagoda?
- It is an 8.5-meter-tall stone pagoda made of granite, built in 1294 during the Kamakura period. It is designated as an Important Cultural Property of Japan and stands in the grounds of Komyobo Temple on Ikuchijima Island, Hiroshima Prefecture.
- Is there an admission fee to see the pagoda?
- No, admission to view the pagoda and the temple grounds is free. The temple is open from 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM year-round.
- How can I get to Komyobo Temple?
- By car, take the Shimanami Kaido expressway to the Ikuchijima Kita IC and drive approximately 10 minutes south. By public transport, take a ferry from Mihara Port or Onomichi Port to Setoda Port, then ride the island loop bus (west route) and alight at the Komyobo bus stop, from which the temple is a 5-minute walk north.
- Are there English signs or information available at the temple?
- Signage at the temple itself is primarily in Japanese. However, basic tourism information about Ikuchijima Island and the Shimanami Kaido is available in English at tourist information centers in Setoda and Onomichi. It may be helpful to prepare some background reading in advance.
- What is the best season to visit?
- The temple can be visited year-round. Spring (March–April) is especially recommended when cherry blossoms bloom across the island and the Nehan-e ceremony takes place. Autumn offers pleasant weather for cycling the Shimanami Kaido, while summer visitors can combine the temple visit with a stop at Setoda Sunset Beach.
Basic Information
| Name | Komyobo Thirteen-Story Stone Pagoda (光明坊十三重塔) |
|---|---|
| Designation | Important Cultural Property of Japan (designated April 25, 1927) |
| Date of Construction | 1294 (Einin 2), late Kamakura period |
| Material | Granite (花崗岩) |
| Height | Approximately 8.15 meters (some sources cite 8.5 meters) |
| Builder | Attributed to the monk Ninsho; master stone craftsman Shin'a (心阿) |
| Temple | Komyobo (光明坊), Shingon sect Sennyuji school |
| Address | 757 Setodacho Mitera, Onomichi City, Hiroshima Prefecture 722-2401 |
| Hours | 8:00 AM – 5:00 PM (year-round) |
| Admission | Free |
| Phone | 0845-28-0427 (Komyobo Temple) |
| Parking | Approximately 12 spaces available |
| Access | Approx. 10 min by car from Ikuchijima Kita IC (Shimanami Kaido). Ferry from Mihara or Onomichi to Setoda Port, then island bus to Komyobo stop. |
References
- 光明坊十三重塔 - 文化遺産オンライン
- https://bunka.nii.ac.jp/heritages/detail/187336
- 広島県の文化財 - 光明坊十三重塔 | 広島県教育委員会
- https://www.pref.hiroshima.lg.jp/site/bunkazai/bunkazai-data-102010120.html
- 光明坊十三重塔石造十三重塔 | Dive! Hiroshima
- https://dive-hiroshima.com/explore/2207/
- 光明坊〔真言宗〕| 尾道市の観光情報
- https://www.ononavi.jp/sightseeing/temple/detail.html?detail_id=36
- 光明坊 - Wikipedia
- https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E5%85%89%E6%98%8E%E5%9D%8A
- 光明坊（こうみょうぼう）十三重石塔 - 石仏と石塔
- https://kawai24.sakura.ne.jp/hirosima-koumyoubou.htm
Last verified: 2026.03.26