The Black Leather-Threaded Domaru: A National Treasure at Itsukushima Shrine

Standing as a testament to the evolution of samurai warfare and craftsmanship, the Black Leather-Threaded Domaru Armor (Kurokawa-odoshi Domaru) at Itsukushima Shrine represents a pivotal moment in Japanese military history. This National Treasure, dating from the Nanbokucho period (1336-1392), embodies the transformation of samurai combat from mounted archery to close-quarter infantry warfare.

Located at the iconic Itsukushima Shrine on Miyajima Island in Hiroshima Prefecture, this complete armor set with helmet and large shoulder guards offers visitors a rare glimpse into the sophisticated military technology and aesthetic sensibilities of 14th-century Japan.

Historical Significance and Cultural Value

The domaru style armor emerged during the late Heian period (794-1185) as lighter, more flexible protection for foot soldiers. Unlike the heavy o-yoroi armor worn by mounted warriors, the domaru allowed for greater mobility in ground combat. By the Nanbokucho period, as warfare tactics shifted from mounted archery to infantry battles using swords and polearms, even high-ranking samurai began adopting this more practical armor style.

This particular domaru is traditionally attributed to Minamoto no Yoshimitsu, a legendary Heian period warrior whose descendants, the Takeda clan, served as military governors of Aki Province (present-day Hiroshima) during the Kamakura and Muromachi periods. This connection suggests the armor may have been offered to Itsukushima Shrine by the Takeda family as a prayer for military success or thanksgiving for divine protection.

The armor was designated a National Treasure in recognition of its exceptional craftsmanship, historical importance, and remarkable state of preservation, making it one of the finest examples of Nanbokucho period military equipment in existence.

Distinctive Features and Craftsmanship

The armor showcases remarkable technical sophistication in its construction. The deep indigo-dyed black leather (kurokawa) lacing creates a striking monochromatic aesthetic that conveys both elegance and martial power. The small armor plates (kozane) feature raised lacquer coating (moriagekozane), a technique that compensated for the thinner, narrower plates used in this period by adding protective thickness through layers of lacquer.

What sets this armor apart is its completeness as a matched set. The helmet, large shoulder guards (o-sode), and body armor were crafted as a unified ensemble, representing the high-ranking warrior's demand for both protection and prestige. The inclusion of helmet and shoulder guards, traditionally associated with the heavier o-yoroi style, demonstrates the evolution of the domaru from simple infantry protection to elite warrior equipment.

The armor's construction reveals sophisticated understanding of both protective function and weight distribution. The body section uses alternating iron and leather plates bound with the distinctive black leather lacing, creating flexible yet strong protection that moves naturally with the wearer's body.

Distinction from Kasuga Taisha's Armor

While Kasuga Taisha shrine in Nara also possesses National Treasure black leather-threaded armors, important distinctions exist between these pieces. Kasuga Taisha's collection includes the "Black Leather-Threaded Arrow-Notch Plated Domaru" (Kurokawa-odoshi Yahazuzane Domaru), attributed to the legendary warrior Kusunoki Masashige and dating from the same Nanbokucho period, and a separate "Black Leather-Threaded Domaru" from the later Muromachi period (15th century).

The Itsukushima armor's simpler, more austere design reflects its possible use in actual combat, while some of Kasuga Taisha's pieces show more decorative elements suggesting ceremonial or votive purposes. The color threading details also differ - Kasuga's Muromachi period armor features five-color decorative cords in specific areas, while Itsukushima's maintains a more uniform appearance suited to practical warfare.

Visiting Itsukushima Shrine and Viewing the Treasure

Itsukushima Shrine, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1996, offers visitors the unique experience of a shrine that appears to float on water during high tide. The shrine complex, rebuilt in its current form by Taira no Kiyomori in 1168, represents one of Japan's most photographed landmarks with its iconic vermillion torii gate standing in the sea.

The Black Leather-Threaded Domaru is housed in the shrine's treasure collection, though viewing opportunities are limited. The actual armor is displayed only during the annual Autumn Treasure Exhibition (usually held in autumn), while a high-quality replica can be viewed year-round at the Itsukushima Shrine Treasure Hall. The special exhibition, when held, typically features 10-15 items including other National Treasures such as decorated sutras and ancient swords.

The Treasure Hall, built in 1934 with distinctive red-lacquered concrete construction, houses approximately 4,500 cultural artifacts, including about 260 items designated as National Treasures or Important Cultural Properties. Admission to the Treasure Hall is separate from the main shrine (300 yen for adults), though combination tickets are available.

Access and Practical Information

Itsukushima Shrine is accessible via a scenic 10-minute ferry ride from Miyajimaguchi Station. Two ferry companies operate regular services, with JR Pass holders able to use the JR Ferry for free. The shrine is approximately a 15-minute walk from the Miyajima ferry terminal through the charming traditional shopping street.

The best times to visit are during the spring cherry blossom season (late March to early April) or autumn foliage (November), though these periods see the highest visitor numbers. For a more contemplative experience, consider visiting during weekday mornings or staying overnight on the island to enjoy the shrine after day-trippers have departed.

The shrine's structures are built over tidal flats, creating dramatically different experiences at high and low tide. Check tide tables before your visit - at high tide, the shrine appears to float mystically on the water, while low tide allows visitors to walk out to the famous torii gate.

Surrounding Attractions and Extended Exploration

Miyajima Island offers numerous attractions beyond the shrine itself. Mount Misen, accessible by ropeway or hiking trails, provides spectacular views over the Seto Inland Sea and is considered a sacred mountain with ancient Buddhist temples along its paths. The Daisho-in Temple, with its 500 unique rakan statues and mystical atmosphere, offers a contrasting Buddhist experience to the Shinto shrine.

The island is famous for its friendly deer that roam freely, though visitors should be aware they may attempt to eat paper items including tickets and maps. Local culinary specialties include momiji manju (maple leaf-shaped cakes filled with various fillings) and fresh oysters, which are cultivated in the surrounding waters.

For those interested in samurai culture, consider combining your visit with nearby Hiroshima Castle, reconstructed after World War II and housing a museum dedicated to samurai culture and castle life. The castle is approximately 1 hour from Miyajima by ferry and tram.