The Miraculous National Treasure of Hiroshima: Fudoin Kondo

On August 6, 1945, the atomic bomb dropped on Hiroshima destroyed nearly all historical buildings in the city. However, at the foot of the mountains in Ushita, approximately 3.9 kilometers from the hypocenter, one building miraculously survived the devastation. This is Fudoin Kondo—the only National Treasure architectural structure remaining in Hiroshima City.

A Warlord's Legacy Brought to Hiroshima

The story of Fudoin Kondo begins in 16th-century Yamaguchi. In 1540 (Tenbun 9), the powerful warlord Ouchi Yoshitaka built a magnificent Buddha hall at Koseki-ji Temple in Suo Province, Yamaguchi. Half a century later, during the Tensho period (1573-1592), this splendid building was relocated to its current location in Hiroshima by Ankokuji Ekei, a diplomatic monk of the Mori clan.

This relocation has deep historical significance. Ekei had entered monastic life at this very temple in his childhood and later became a high-ranking monk with close ties to Toyotomi Hideyoshi. When reconstructing the dilapidated Ankokuji Temple (now Fudoin), he transported this magnificent building from Yamaguchi to serve as the temple's centerpiece.

The Pinnacle of Zen Buddhist Architecture

The Kondo hall boasts the largest scale among all surviving medieval Zen Buddhist halls in Japan. While it appears to be a two-story structure, it actually features a unique single-story design with a mokoshi (decorative pent roof). The hip-and-gable roof is covered with kokera-buki, a traditional technique using thin overlapping wooden shingles.

The architectural details showcase quintessential Zen Buddhist style features throughout. The ebi-koryo (shrimp-shaped rainbow beams) curve like a crustacean's back, fan-shaped rafters radiate outward, and complex three-tiered bracket systems support the structure. All these elements have preserved their original appearance for nearly 500 years. The interior ceiling reaches 8.6 meters in height, still bearing original paintings of celestial maidens and flying dragons from the time of construction.

A Witness That Survived the Atomic Bomb

On August 6, 1945, Fudoin was located approximately 3.9 kilometers from the hypocenter. Fortunately positioned behind a mountain that shielded it from the blast, the building avoided complete destruction despite suffering partial roof damage from the blast wave. On that day, many atomic bomb victims fleeing from the city center took refuge at this temple, and the grounds were filled with the injured.

In 1958, during the post-war reconstruction period, this Kondo hall was designated as a National Treasure. This designation recognized not only its architectural value but also its significance as a living witness to Hiroshima's history.

A Sacred Site Where History Layers Upon History

Fudoin's history stretches back to the late Heian period. In the 14th century, it became one of the Ankokuji temples established throughout Japan by the Ashikaga brothers, Takauji and Tadayoshi. During the Muromachi period, it flourished as the family temple of the Takeda clan, the provincial governors of Aki Province.

Though it fell into ruin during the warfare of the Sengoku period, it was magnificently restored by Ankokuji Ekei. However, after Ekei sided with the Western Army at the Battle of Sekigahara and was executed, the new lord of Hiroshima Castle, Fukushima Masanori, installed his prayer monk at the temple. The temple was renamed "Fudoin" with Fudo Myoo (Acala) as its principal deity. During the Edo period, it continued to flourish as an important temple in Hiroshima under the protection of the Asano clan.

A Treasury of Cultural Properties

Beyond the Kondo hall, Fudoin houses numerous cultural properties. The two-story gate and bell tower are designated as Important Cultural Properties, with Kongorikishi statues (prefecturally designated important cultural properties) standing on either side of the gate. The principal image, a seated statue of Yakushi Nyorai (Medicine Buddha), dates from the late Heian period and preserves the elegant Jocho style.

Even more remarkably, the temple grounds contain historical sites related to important figures in Japanese history, including a memorial mound containing hair of Toyotomi Hideyoshi, a memorial tower for Fukushima Masanori, and graves of the Takeda clan.

Access and How to Enjoy Your Visit

Access to Fudoin is surprisingly convenient. It's just a 2-minute walk from Fudoin-mae Station on the Hiroshima Rapid Transit Astram Line, approximately 20 minutes from JR Hiroshima Station.

The temple grounds are freely accessible with no admission fee. Visitors can leisurely stroll through the peaceful precincts and carefully observe the details of this National Treasure architecture. Cherry blossoms color the grounds in spring and autumn leaves in fall, offering seasonal beauty throughout the year.

Futaba-no-Sato Historical Walking Trail: Hiroshima's Hidden Historical Path

Fudoin serves as the starting point for the "Futaba-no-Sato Historical Walking Trail." This approximately 11-kilometer historical path connects shrines and temples positioned in the kimon (demon gate/northeast) direction of Hiroshima Castle, running from Fudoin to Yaga Station.

Along the path, precious cultural properties that escaped atomic bomb damage are scattered, including Hiroshima Toshogu Shrine, Nigitsu Shrine, and Myojoin Temple. Free volunteer guide tours are conducted on the 28th of each month, known as "Futaba Day" (meet at JR Hiroshima Station Shinkansen Exit at 10:00 AM).

Nearby Attractions

After visiting Fudoin, we recommend climbing Mount Futaba. From the summit, you can enjoy panoramic views of Hiroshima city and the Seto Inland Sea, even catching sight of the World Heritage Site Miyajima. The "Futabayama Peace Pagoda" at the summit offers a place to pray for world peace.

Nearby Atago Shrine is famous as a place where Hiroshima Toyo Carp baseball players and fans come to pray for victory. Mazda Stadium is also within walking distance, making it possible to combine baseball watching with historical exploration.

Feeling the Weight of History in Tranquility

Fudoin Kondo is not merely an ancient building. It is a living witness that has quietly endured through Sengoku period culture, Buddhist history, and humanity's greatest tragedy—the atomic bombing.

While many tourists visiting Hiroshima head to Peace Memorial Park or Miyajima, this quiet temple preserves the authentic, uncommercialized history of Hiroshima. Appreciating the beauty of National Treasure architecture, feeling the layers of history, and renewing thoughts of peace—Fudoin Kondo is a special place that offers such profound experiences.