A Crimson Jewel Floating in the Seto Inland Sea: Kojo-ji Three-Story Pagoda

Ikuchi Island, embraced by the gentle waves of the Seto Inland Sea. On the northern part of this island, halfway up Mount Cho-on, stands a vermillion pagoda that has quietly watched over the landscape for nearly 600 years. The National Treasure Kojo-ji Three-Story Pagoda continues to captivate visitors with its unchanging beauty as a masterpiece that embodies the pinnacle of Muromachi period architectural techniques.

Built in 1432 (Eikyo 4), this three-story pagoda is a representative work of eclectic architecture that skillfully incorporates the then-cutting-edge Zen style (Chinese style) techniques while being based on traditional Japanese architectural style. The 19-meter-tall vermillion-lacquered pagoda stands in a perfect position overlooking the port of Setoda, once serving as a landmark for ships navigating the Seto Inland Sea.

The Fusion of Eastern and Western Cultures in Architectural Style

The greatest charm of Kojo-ji Three-Story Pagoda lies in its architectural style. It is truly a testament to international architectural exchange, incorporating Zen Buddhist techniques introduced from China during the Kamakura period while maintaining a foundation in traditional Japanese architecture.

The fan rafters (ogi-daruki) installed under the eaves of each story create beautiful radiating curves, strongly displaying characteristics of the Zen style. The flame-shaped windows called kato-mado are also representative features of Zen architecture. Meanwhile, the overall structure maintains the calm presence of Japanese style, with both styles harmonizing beautifully.

Particularly noteworthy are the intricate carvings on the bracket arms (hijiki-bana) and corner brackets. All the ends of the decorative bracket arms beneath the tail rafters are carved and were once adorned with vibrant colors, telling the story of the high technical skills of craftsmen at that time.

The Value of Miraculously Preserved Original Materials

One reason this three-story pagoda was designated as a National Treasure is that most of its materials remain original from the time of construction. Examples that have maintained their original appearance almost perfectly after nearly 600 years are extremely rare, making this an invaluable architectural artifact.

The fact that the construction date is clearly known also enhances the academic value of this pagoda. Records show it was built in Eikyo 4 (1432), with Nobumoto and Nobumasa, members of the Kobayakawa clan who ruled Ikuchi Island at the time, serving as the patrons.

Uniqueness as a Zen Buddhist Temple Pagoda

Kojo-ji was founded in 1403 (Oei 10) as a Rinzai Zen temple and later converted to the Soto Zen school. It held great authority in medieval times, being designated as a prayer temple by the fourth Ashikaga shogun, Yoshimochi.

Building a pagoda at a Zen temple is rare, making Kojo-ji Three-Story Pagoda an extremely valuable example of a Zen Buddhist pagoda. This is likely related to Ikuchi Island's position as a strategic point in the Seto Inland Sea, serving as a stage for international exchange through Japan-Ming trade and Korean embassy missions.

Encountering Historical Heritage on the Island of Lemons and Art

Today's Ikuchi Island is known as the "Island of Lemons and Art." This island, which boasts Japan's highest domestic lemon production, sees white lemon blossoms bloom from May to June, with yellow lemons coloring the entire island in winter.

Additionally, the "Island-Wide Museum" project has installed 17 contemporary art pieces throughout the island, creating a unique landscape where nature and art merge. The coexistence of the 600-year-old Kojo-ji Three-Story Pagoda and contemporary art can be said to be a unique charm of this island.

About a 20-minute walk from Kojo-ji is Kosan-ji Temple, known as the "Nikko of the West." This temple, built by a Showa-era industrialist out of gratitude to his mother, is famous for its grand temple complex that recreates famous architecture from across Japan, including the Koyo-mon gate modeled after Nikko Toshogu's Yomei-mon.

In the center of Setoda is the retro-atmosphere "Shiomachi Shopping Street," where you can enjoy various lemon-based gourmet foods and souvenirs. The Hirayama Ikuo Museum of Art, which exhibits works by Setoda-born Japanese painter Hirayama Ikuo, is also a must-see.

The Sacred Ground of Shimanami Kaido Cycling

Ikuchi Island is known as one of the most cycling-friendly islands on the Shimanami Kaido. The island's circumference is about 24 kilometers with minimal elevation changes, allowing even beginners to complete a circuit in half a day.

The section between Tatara Bridge and Setoda Port is particularly famous as one of the best cycling routes on the Shimanami Kaido, with palm tree-lined seaside roads creating a tropical resort atmosphere. The cycling path is painted green, allowing safe cycling without worrying about cars.

Setoda Sunset Beach features 800 meters of white sandy beach, one of the premier swimming beaches in the Chugoku region. As its name suggests, you can enjoy beautiful sunsets in the evening, making it the perfect place to end your day.

Access and Visiting Tips

To access Kojo-ji, use the Ikuchi-jima Kita IC from Honshu or the Ikuchi-jima Minami IC from Shikoku on the Shimanami Kaido. Both ICs are about 15 minutes by car from the temple. If using public transportation, take a boat from Onomichi Port to Setoda Port (about 40 minutes), then walk about 10 minutes from Setoda Port.

Viewing the three-story pagoda is free and can be visited year-round. However, the main hall's principal Buddha statue is a hidden treasure, revealed only once every 33 years. From around the pagoda, you can enjoy panoramic views of Setoda town and the Seto Inland Sea, with the sunset views being particularly spectacular.

When visiting, comfortable walking shoes are recommended as you'll need to climb steep slopes. The best photo spot is from the south side of the pagoda, where you can beautifully capture the vermillion tower against the backdrop of the Seto Inland Sea.