Ichijoji Three-Storied Pagoda: A National Treasure Standing Since 1171

Nestled in the forested mountains of Kasai City in Hyogo Prefecture, the Three-Storied Pagoda of Ichijoji Temple is one of Japan's most revered architectural treasures. Built in 1171 during the final decades of the Heian period, this elegant pagoda has survived over 850 years of history — including wars, fires, and earthquakes — making it one of the oldest wooden pagodas still standing in all of Japan. Designated as a National Treasure in 1952, it stands as a masterpiece of traditional Japanese wayō architecture and a must-visit destination for anyone seeking to experience the authentic cultural heritage of Japan.

The History of Ichijoji Temple

Ichijoji Temple, formally known as Hokkezan Ichijoji, is a Tendai Buddhist temple with a history stretching back to the year 650. According to temple tradition, it was founded at the request of Emperor Kōtoku by the legendary monk Hōdō Sennin (also known as the "Empty Bowl Sage"), said to have arrived from India riding on a purple cloud. He discovered a mountain shaped like an eight-petaled lotus flower in what is now Kasai City and named it Mount Hokke, meaning "Mountain of the Lotus Sutra."

While the legendary origins may blend myth and history, there is solid archaeological evidence that Buddhism flourished in this area from a very early period. The temple possesses six gilt-bronze Buddha statues dating to the 7th and 8th centuries, and nearby ruins of ancient temples and Nara-period stone Buddhas confirm the region's deep spiritual heritage.

Throughout the centuries, Ichijoji served as an important center of Buddhist learning and practice. The eminent monk Eison (Kōshō Bosatsu), who revived the Shingon Ritsu school, used the temple as his base for missionary work in Harima Province. The temple also holds the distinction of being the 26th temple on the Saigoku Sanjūsankasho, one of Japan's most beloved pilgrimage routes with over a thousand years of history.

Why Is the Three-Storied Pagoda a National Treasure?

The Three-Storied Pagoda of Ichijoji was designated as a National Treasure for several compelling reasons that make it exceptionally significant in the history of Japanese architecture.

First, its construction date is precisely documented. An inscription on the fukubachi (inverted bowl) of the sōrin (finial) at the top of the pagoda records the year Jōan 1 (1171), making it one of the rare cases where a pagoda's exact age can be confirmed. This places the pagoda firmly in the late Heian period, a transitional era in Japanese architectural history.

Second, the pagoda exemplifies the characteristics of an ancient tower. Each successive story decreases significantly in size from bottom to top, creating a distinctive silhouette that differs from later pagoda designs. The finial is proportionally large compared to the tower body, and the structural members are thick and robust, giving the entire structure a sense of dignified solidity.

Third, and perhaps most importantly for architectural historians, the pagoda represents a critical transitional phase between ancient and medieval Japanese construction techniques. While it incorporates emerging medieval innovations — such as slight variations in rafter spacing between bays and the use of early-form kaerumata (frog-leg struts) made from two separate pieces of wood — it also retains distinctly archaic features, including tall bearing blocks, a roof without chigomune (ridge ornaments), and details that show the evolving mastery of bracket-complex construction. This makes the pagoda an invaluable document of how Japanese architectural technology developed during a pivotal period.

Among the twelve pre-Edo period three-storied pagodas in Hyogo Prefecture, Ichijoji's is both the oldest and the only one designated as a National Treasure.

Architectural Highlights and What to Look For

The pagoda stands on an elevated stone foundation called a kamebara (literally "turtle belly"), carved directly from the natural bedrock. This is a distinctive feature rarely seen in later constructions. The ground floor has a plank floor with a railing around it, and the central pillar (shinbashira) begins from the second story, extending upward through the finial — a symbolic representation of Mount Sumeru, the center of the universe in Buddhist cosmology.

Look closely at the bracket complexes (kumimono) on each story. They use the mitesaki (three-step) style, with the intermediary kaerumata struts on the first and second stories representing one of the earliest examples of this decorative element in Japanese architecture. The legs of these struts are unadorned, reflecting the simplicity of the period.

The deeply projecting eaves, supported by strongly curved tail rafters and flying rafters, create the pagoda's characteristic sense of stability and grace. While the structure now displays the warm, weathered tones of natural wood, faint traces of vermillion paint on the bracket complexes reveal that the pagoda was originally painted in brilliant red — a vivid reminder of its former splendor.

The roofline of the third story features a subtle mukuri (convex curvature), a refined architectural detail that adds elegance to the tower's profile. The hongawarabuki roof, composed of alternating flat and cylindrical tiles, is another hallmark of traditional Japanese temple construction.

One of the most rewarding aspects of visiting Ichijoji is the ability to view the pagoda from multiple vantage points. As you climb the 162 stone steps toward the main hall, the pagoda appears at mid-level along the stairway, allowing visitors to admire it from below, at eye level, and then from above on the veranda of the main hall — each perspective revealing a different aspect of its beauty.

Other Cultural Properties at Ichijoji

While the Three-Storied Pagoda is the undisputed highlight, Ichijoji Temple is home to an impressive collection of other cultural treasures. The temple possesses a second National Treasure: a set of ten silk-painted portraits of Prince Shōtoku and Tendai high priests, created during the Heian period and celebrated for their exquisite brushwork and vivid colors.

Several buildings within the temple complex are designated as Important Cultural Properties of Japan. The Kondō (Main Hall), rebuilt in 1628 with a donation from Honda Tadamasa, the lord of Himeji Domain, is a spacious single-story structure that offers panoramic views from its elevated veranda. Other designated structures include the Gohōdō (Guardian Deity Hall), Myōkendō, Bentendō, and a stone gorintō (five-tiered pagoda), all dating from the Kamakura to Muromachi periods.

The Shōrō (bell tower), completed in 1629, is designated as a Hyogo Prefectural Cultural Property, along with a stone hōtō (treasure pagoda) and a stone kasatōba (umbrella-shaped stupa).

Seasonal Beauty: Cherry Blossoms and Autumn Foliage

Ichijoji Temple is renowned not only for its architecture but also for its stunning seasonal landscapes. The temple's traditional verse captures this beautifully: "Flowers in spring, mandarin oranges in summer, chrysanthemums in autumn — always wondrous is the mountain of the Lotus Sutra."

In spring, cherry blossoms frame the pagoda and scatter their petals along the stone stairways. But it is autumn that draws the largest crowds, when the temple grounds are transformed by brilliant shades of red, orange, and gold. The maple trees growing throughout the grounds are not commercially planted but have grown naturally from wild seeds over many generations, giving the autumn foliage a particularly organic and varied character.

The view from the main hall veranda, looking down at the Three-Storied Pagoda surrounded by a canopy of autumn leaves, is considered one of the finest photo spots in all of Hyogo Prefecture. The autumn foliage season typically runs from early to late November, though exact timing varies by year.

Surrounding Area and Nearby Attractions

Kasai City and its surroundings offer several points of interest that pair well with a visit to Ichijoji Temple. The Furubokke Stone Buddha, a Nara-period triad sculpture designated as an Important Cultural Property, is located at the foot of nearby Mount Kasamatsu — believed to be the original site of Ichijoji Temple before it relocated to its current position.

The Hōkawa-guchi Station on the Hōjō Railway is a charming early-modern station building designated as a Registered Tangible Cultural Property, offering a glimpse of retro railway heritage. In the area around Sakamoto-chō, visitors can also learn about Hokke Daizu, a traditional variety of soybean that has been cultivated locally for generations.

For those exploring more of the region, nearby Kakogawa City is home to Kakurinji Temple, another cultural treasure site with a National Treasure pagoda. The historic city of Himeji, with its world-famous Himeji Castle (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), is approximately 40 minutes away by bus, making it easy to combine both destinations in a single day trip.