The Miraculous Harmony of Scripture and Buddha Images - National Treasure "Ichiji-ichibutsu Hokekyo Johon"

In Zentsuji City, Kagawa Prefecture, at the birthplace of Kobo Daishi Kukai, stands Zentsuji Temple, the head temple of the Shingon Buddhist Zentsuji school. Within this sacred ground rests one of the world's most unique national treasures. The "Ichiji-ichibutsu Hokekyo Johon" (One Character, One Buddha Lotus Sutra Prologue) is a 21.2-meter scroll where Buddhist scripture characters and Buddha images are alternately arranged - a truly one-of-a-kind decorated sutra in Japanese Buddhist art history.

Where Characters Become Buddhas, and Buddhas Become Characters - The World of Kyobutsu Kosho-kyo

The most distinctive feature of this work is its extremely rare format called "Kyobutsu Kosho-kyo" (alternating scripture and Buddha images). On high-quality paper dyed in kihada (yellowish) color, the Lotus Sutra prologue is written with 10 characters per line, and in the next line, one Buddha figure is drawn for each character of the scripture.

The scripture is written in an elegant Japanese-style regular script, demonstrating a classical dignity and refinement. Meanwhile, the Buddha images are first sketched in vermillion, then colored, with their outlines drawn in black ink. All Buddhas wear vermillion robes, sit on white-green lotus flowers, and have white circular halos behind them, yet each has different expressions and postures, overflowing with free and generous individuality.

This format of alternating scripture and Buddha images is only found in sutras excavated from Dunhuang, China, with no other examples confirmed in Japan, making this an extremely precious artifact.

Why It's a National Treasure - Three Essential Values

Designated as a National Treasure on November 14, 1953, this work possesses three important values.

First, it represents the pinnacle of decorated sutra culture in the mid-Heian period (11th century). The aristocrats of that era, under the influence of Lotus Sutra faith, competed to create beautiful decorated sutras in hopes of rebirth in paradise. This work expresses deep religious devotion through the innovative concept of combining scripture and Buddha images, embodying the principle of "one character, one Buddha."

Second, it is the only example of Kyobutsu Kosho-kyo in Japan. With Buddha images drawn for each of the 4,187 characters of scripture, such a large-scale and systematic work is unparalleled even globally.

Third, it is a masterpiece showing the fusion of Buddhist art and calligraphy from the Heian period. The harmony between the scripture's calligraphic style and the Buddha paintings' techniques creates both religious solemnity and artistic beauty.

The Legend of Kukai and His Mother - A Sacred Scroll Born from Parent-Child Bonds

According to temple tradition, this scroll was written by Kobo Daishi Kukai with the Buddha images painted by his mother, Lady Tamayori. This is recorded in the "Reibutsu Hobutsu Mokuroku" from 1696, and this beautiful story of deep parent-child bonds and faith crystallized into one work has been passed down through generations.

While the actual creation period is considered to be mid-Heian based on the writing and artistic style, this legend gives special meaning to the work and is one reason it has been carefully preserved as Zentsuji's greatest treasure.

Annual Special Exhibition - November 3rd "Kukai Festival"

Usually, an elaborate reproduction (collotype printing) is displayed in the treasure hall, but the original is specially exhibited only on November 3rd during the annual "Kukai Festival." On this day, many worshippers and art enthusiasts from across the country visit to witness this precious cultural property that has survived over 900 years.

Additionally, detailed views of the work can be appreciated through high-resolution digital images on Zentsuji's official website "Zentsuji Tekuteku Cultural Heritage."

Head Temple Zentsuji - The Sacred Birthplace of Kukai

Zentsuji is the head temple of the Shingon Buddhist Zentsuji school, built at the birthplace of Kobo Daishi Kukai in 774. As the 75th temple of the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage and one of the three great sacred sites of Kobo Daishi alongside Mount Koya and Toji Temple in Kyoto, it welcomes numerous pilgrims throughout the year.

The vast grounds of approximately 45,000 square meters are divided into the East Temple (Garan), the original temple grounds, and the West Temple (Tanjo-in), built on the site of Kukai's birthplace. The East Temple features the Important Cultural Property main hall and a 43-meter five-story pagoda, while the West Temple houses the Miei-do hall depicting Kukai's image.

The treasure hall was built in 1973 as a commemorative project for the 1200th anniversary of Kobo Daishi's birth, housing precious cultural properties including the Ichiji-ichibutsu Hokekyo Johon and another National Treasure, the "Gilt Bronze Staff Head" (said to have been brought back from Tang China by Kukai).

Access and Visiting Information

Approximately 20 minutes on foot from JR Dosan Line Zentsuji Station, or about 10 minutes by car from Takamatsu Expressway Zentsuji IC. A large parking lot accommodating 350 vehicles is available on the west side of the grounds, with all-day parking for 300 yen.

The treasure hall is open from 9:00 AM to 4:30 PM, open year-round. Admission includes the Kaidan-meguri (ordination platform tour) for 500 yen for adults, 300 yen for elementary and junior high school students. The Kaidan-meguri is an experiential worship where visitors walk through completely dark underground passages, providing a valuable opportunity to experience Kobo Daishi's teachings.

Heavenly Bowl of Bliss in the Holy Land of Sanuki Udon

Zentsuji City is also known as a gathering place for famous Sanuki udon shops. Be sure to savor the authentic flavors before or after your temple visit.

Particularly recommended is "Shirakawa Udon," which insists on hand-cut noodles. The noodles, made by craftsmen's handwork without machines, are served in perfect condition under strict quality control with no preparation exceeding 30 minutes. The combination with broth using only natural ingredients is exceptional.

The famous kamaage udon restaurant "Osada in Ka-no-ka" is also unmissable. Their kamaage udon, where freshly boiled hot noodles are enjoyed with seasoned dipping sauce, offers a smooth surface while maintaining firm texture - truly a masterpiece.

Surrounding Attractions - Harmony of History and Nature

Around Zentsuji, various attractions including historical buildings and natural landscapes are scattered throughout.

The "Former Zentsuji Kaikousha," built in 1903, is a Western-style building used as a social club for officers of the former Imperial Army's 11th Division. Now used as a café, visitors can spend relaxing time in its retro atmosphere.

Within the temple grounds are two giant camphor trees over 1,000 years old, designated as natural monuments of Kagawa Prefecture. These giants, which have provided shade to pilgrims since Kobo Daishi's time, are living witnesses to Zentsuji's long history.

Zentsuji also has a permanent "Sand Stepping Hall" for the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage. By arranging the principal deities and sand from each temple's grounds and stepping on them while making the circuit, it's said to provide the same merit as an actual pilgrimage. This is a valuable facility where those with time constraints or physical limitations can still experience the spirit of the Shikoku pilgrimage.