Selume Catholic Church Priest's House

Sedome Catholic Church Presbytery: A Testament to Faith on Amami Oshima

Standing quietly in the Sedome district of Tatsugo Town on Amami Oshima, the Sedome Catholic Church Presbytery is a registered tangible cultural property that bears witness to a remarkable chapter in Japan's religious history. This modest yet dignified two-story wooden building, alongside its companion church sanctuary, tells the story of how Catholicism took root on a remote subtropical island—and the trials the faithful endured to preserve their beliefs.

A Brief History of Catholicism in Sedome

The story of Catholicism in the Sedome district began in the late 1890s. In 1897, a member of the Koriyama family received baptism, and the following year, a French missionary known as Father Gicquel baptized a young child named Ōshimine Madoka. Around this period, Catholic evangelization gradually spread through the small community. Among approximately 25 to 26 households, four families initially converted, followed by 15 more families in a second wave of baptisms.

In those early days, Catholicism was not called by that name locally—instead, it was referred to as "Tenshu-kō" (天主公), meaning "Lord of Heaven." By May 1908, the current church building was completed, and a priest named Father Buiju, who was known for speaking beautiful Shimaguchi (the local Amami dialect), served the growing congregation. By 1918, the number of faithful had swelled to over 400.

The Anti-Catholic Persecution

The flourishing Catholic community on Amami Oshima faced a devastating setback in the 1930s. In 1934, an anti-Catholic movement swept the island, driven by nationalist sentiments that viewed foreign religion as incompatible with the Japanese national polity. The Sedome church was forced to close. In 1936, military officers from the Amami Oshima Fortress Command arrived to pressure believers into renouncing their faith, employing coercive tactics including forced signing of apostasy documents.

By 1937, the confiscated church was repurposed as a youth training school, where subjects such as sewing, Japanese language, and agriculture were taught. This painful chapter mirrors the broader persecution experienced across Amami Oshima, where crosses were torn down, church buildings were seized and handed over to local government, and believers faced intimidation and harassment. Despite these hardships, many faithful preserved their beliefs in their hearts, and the church buildings survived the turbulent era.

Architecture of the Presbytery

The Sedome Catholic Church Presbytery is positioned to the east of the main church sanctuary. It is an east-west oriented building measuring approximately 12 meters in length and 6 meters in width. The two-story wooden structure features a hipped roof (yosemune-zukuri) covered with iron sheeting, and a single-story annex extends from the north side of the building.

The exterior is finished with weatherboard cladding (shitami-itabari), a construction technique commonly used in Western-influenced buildings of the Meiji era. While some modifications have been made over the years, the presbytery retains its original character and, together with the adjacent church sanctuary, provides valuable insight into the architectural heritage of Catholic mission buildings on Amami Oshima.

The church sanctuary itself is a substantial structure measuring 20 meters by 11 meters, with a hipped roof on the north side and a hip-and-gable roof (irimoya-zukuri) on the south. The interior follows a three-nave plan (sannō-shiki), with the central nave raised higher than the side aisles, all covered with flat ceilings. Despite exterior renovations, the interior preserves much of its original early 20th-century character.

Cultural Significance and Registration

On April 18, 2008, both the Sedome Catholic Church Sanctuary and the Presbytery were registered as national registered tangible cultural properties (buildings). This designation recognizes their importance as historical structures that document the spread of Catholicism across Amami Oshima during the Meiji and Taisho periods.

The registered tangible cultural property system in Japan was established in 1996 to protect buildings of cultural and historical significance that might otherwise be lost to development or neglect. Unlike the stricter designation system for Important Cultural Properties, this registration system provides flexible protection while encouraging continued use and preservation of these heritage buildings.

The Sedome Catholic Church complex is particularly valuable because it preserves both the sanctuary and the presbytery—a rare surviving example of a complete Meiji-era Catholic mission compound on Amami Oshima, where many other churches were destroyed or significantly altered during the persecution of the 1930s and the upheavals of World War II.

Exploring Amami Oshima's Catholic Heritage

The Sedome Catholic Church Presbytery is part of a broader network of Catholic heritage sites scattered across northern Amami Oshima. The island's Catholic history dates back to 1891, when the first baptisms were performed, and by the 1920s, the faithful numbered over 4,000. Today, approximately 31 Catholic churches dot the island, with the majority concentrated in the northern region.

Visitors interested in tracing this unique religious heritage can explore several notable sites in the area. The Naze Sacred Heart Church (Seishin Kyōkai) in Amami City's urban center features a bust of Father Ferrier, the first Catholic apostle of Amami. The Ōkasari Church, rebuilt after being destroyed by arson during the persecution era, houses a historic Angelus bell that was returned from Urawa Church in Saitama Prefecture in 1984 after decades away from the island.

The juxtaposition of Shinto shrines and Catholic churches within the same small communities creates a fascinating cultural landscape unique to Amami Oshima—a testament to the island's complex spiritual history.

Visiting Tatsugo Town

Tatsugo Town occupies a central position on Amami Oshima, bordered by the East China Sea to the north and the Pacific Ocean to the south. The town is conveniently located between Amami Airport and the main city of Naze, each approximately 20 to 25 minutes away by car.

Beyond its Catholic heritage, Tatsugo Town offers visitors a wealth of experiences. The town is renowned as the birthplace of the iconic Tatsugo pattern of Oshima Tsumugi (traditional silk textile), and visitors can observe the intricate mud-dyeing process at local workshops. The famous Heart Rock at Akaogi Beach draws couples seeking good fortune, while the Dragon Eye phenomenon at Kaganbana Tunnel—where the setting sun aligns perfectly through the tunnel around the equinoxes—is a breathtaking seasonal spectacle.

The town also boasts connections to the great samurai Saigo Takamori, who lived in exile on Amami Oshima from 1859 to 1861. His former residence in the Tatsugo district is a popular historical attraction. Nature enthusiasts can explore the Amami Nature Observation Forest, part of the Amami Gunto National Park, or enjoy the beautiful Tebiro Beach, known as an excellent surfing spot.

Practical Information for Visitors

When visiting the Sedome Catholic Church Presbytery, please remember that it remains an active religious site owned by the Catholic Diocese of Kagoshima. Visitors are kindly asked to be respectful of the sacred space and any religious activities that may be taking place. Photography policies may vary, so it is advisable to seek permission before taking photographs inside the buildings.

Amami Oshima is accessible by air from major cities including Tokyo (Haneda and Narita), Osaka (Itami and Kansai), Fukuoka, and Kagoshima. Ferry services also connect the island to Kagoshima and other ports. Within the island, rental cars are the most convenient mode of transportation, though local bus services operated by Shima Bus (しまバス) connect major points along Route 58.

The subtropical climate of Amami Oshima means warm temperatures year-round, but the rainy season (tsuyu) typically runs from May to June. The island was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site (as part of Amami-Oshima, Tokunoshima, the Northern Part of Okinawa Island, and Iriomote Island) in July 2021, recognizing its exceptional biodiversity.