East Side of Daishoji Temple Tsukiji

Daishōji Tōmen Tsuiji: A Historic Earthen Wall Guarding Kyoto's Imperial Convent

Tucked away on a quiet stretch of Karasuma Avenue, just steps from the northern edge of the Kyoto Imperial Palace, the Daishōji Tōmen Tsuiji (大聖寺東面築地) stands as a dignified sentinel of centuries past. This traditional rammed-earth wall, known in Japanese as a tsuiji-bei, forms the eastern boundary of Daishōji Temple — one of Kyoto's most prestigious and historically significant imperial Buddhist convents. Registered as a national tangible cultural property in 2011, the wall is far more than a simple enclosure; it is a living testament to the refined aesthetics, spiritual heritage, and architectural traditions of Japan's imperial culture.

What Is a Tsuiji-Bei? Understanding the Traditional Earthen Wall

A tsuiji-bei (築地塀) is a style of wall constructed from layers of rammed earth, typically reinforced with wooden supports and topped with a protective tiled roof. This building technique has been employed in Japan since at least the Nara period (710–794) and was commonly used to demarcate the boundaries of imperial palaces, aristocratic residences, and high-ranking temples. The layered horizontal bands of compacted soil visible on many tsuiji-bei are not merely structural — they also serve as an indicator of the status of the property they protect. At temples with connections to the imperial household, the walls often feature five horizontal white lines, signifying the highest rank of the monzeki system.

The Daishōji Tōmen Tsuiji extends along the eastern face of the temple compound, running parallel to the approach from the main gate toward the entrance hall. It was reconstructed around 1922 (Taishō 11) and stands alongside a corresponding high wooden fence (takabei) on the western side. Together, these enclosures frame the formal approach path and create a sense of quiet seclusion that is characteristic of imperial convent architecture.

Daishōji Temple: Kyoto's Foremost Imperial Convent

To appreciate the significance of the Tōmen Tsuiji, one must understand the extraordinary history of the temple it protects. Daishōji (大聖寺) was founded in 1382 during the Muromachi period by the third Ashikaga shogun, Yoshimitsu, on the grounds of his legendary residence known as the "Flower Palace" (Hana no Gosho). The temple was established in memory of Musō Jōen, a consort of Emperor Kōgon and aunt of Yoshimitsu's wife, who had taken Buddhist vows at Tenryūji Temple.

Over the following centuries, Daishōji became the most distinguished of Kyoto's imperial Buddhist nunneries. A total of 24 imperial princesses served as its abbess across 450 years, earning the temple the honorific title Otera no Gosho (御寺御所, "The Palace Temple"). Emperor Ōgimachi granted it the status of "First Among Nunneries" in the 16th century — a distinction it has held ever since.

After being destroyed by fire in 1673, the temple was rebuilt at its current location in 1697 during the Genroku era, using land that had previously belonged to the Shōgo-in temple. This site is historically significant in its own right, as it falls within the former grounds of the Flower Palace where Ashikaga Yoshimitsu once entertained emperors and courtiers with poetry gatherings and kemari ball games. A stone monument inscribed "Hana no Gosho" still stands within the temple grounds today.

Why It Was Designated a Cultural Property

In January 2011, the Daishōji Tōmen Tsuiji was registered as a nationally registered tangible cultural property (building) by the Agency for Cultural Affairs. This designation was part of a broader recognition of nine structures within the Daishōji compound, including the main hall, the imperial palace (Miya Goten), the entrance hall, the tea room Zangetsu-tei, the connecting corridor, the main gate, the high fence, the eastern earthen wall, and the southern earthen wall.

The wall was recognized for its contribution to the historical landscape of Kyoto and its role in preserving the distinctive architectural character of an imperial convent. Traditional tsuiji-bei walls are increasingly rare in modern Japanese cities, where they have been gradually replaced by concrete block walls or other modern materials. The Daishōji Tōmen Tsuiji, dating to approximately 1922, exemplifies the continuity of this traditional construction method into the modern era and contributes to the dignified atmosphere that surrounds this sacred precinct.

Highlights and Things to See

While Daishōji is normally closed to the public, there is much to appreciate from outside its walls, and occasional special openings provide rare glimpses of its interior treasures.

The Eastern Earthen Wall Itself

Walking along Karasuma Avenue or the side street that leads to the temple's main gate, visitors can observe the Tōmen Tsuiji up close. The warm, earthy tones of the rammed clay layers, the graceful sweep of the tiled roof atop the wall, and the weathered texture that speaks of decades of Kyoto's rain and sun combine to create a scene of quiet beauty. The wall stands in elegant contrast to the modern buildings of nearby Doshisha University, offering a tangible link to an older, more contemplative Kyoto.

The Main Gate and Approach

The temple's main gate (omote-mon), also a registered cultural property, is a single-bay yakui-mon style gate with a tiled hip-and-gable roof, dating to 1922. Passing through it (during special openings), visitors enter the formal approach flanked by the eastern tsuiji wall on the right and the high wooden fence on the left.

Special Public Openings

Daishōji has been opened to the public during the "Kyō no Fuyu no Tabi" (Kyoto Winter Journey) special viewing programs. Notable openings occurred in 2013 and 2020, allowing visitors to see the main hall — originally the private palace of Empress Dowager Teimei at the Aoyama Imperial Residence in Tokyo, which was relocated to Daishōji in 1943 — as well as the exquisite Miya Goten with its Edo-period sliding door paintings and the serene dry landscape garden designated as a Kyoto City Scenic Beauty.

The Flower Palace Monument

Within the temple grounds stands a stone monument inscribed with "Hana no Gosho" (花乃御所), marking the site as part of Ashikaga Yoshimitsu's legendary palatial residence that once rivaled the Imperial Palace in grandeur.

Surrounding Area and Nearby Attractions

Daishōji is situated in one of Kyoto's most historically rich neighborhoods, making it easy to combine a visit with several other notable destinations.

• Kyoto Imperial Palace and Kyoto Gyoen National Garden — Located directly south across Imadegawa Street, the expansive palace grounds are freely accessible and offer a magnificent setting for strolling among historical buildings, plum groves, and cherry trees.
• Doshisha University Imadegawa Campus — Adjacent to Daishōji, the campus features several important Meiji-era Western-style brick buildings that are themselves registered cultural properties.
• Shōkokuji Temple — A major Rinzai Zen temple founded by Ashikaga Yoshimitsu, located a short walk north. Its Jōtenkaku Museum houses an outstanding collection of Japanese art.
• Nashinoki Shrine — A charming shrine on the northeastern edge of the Imperial Palace grounds, famous for its autumn foliage and connection to the Meiji Restoration.