Former Kyoto Central Telephone Office Nishijin Branch

Former Nishijin Branch of Kyoto Central Telephone Office: A Masterpiece of Taishō-Era Expressionist Architecture

Standing quietly on the corner of Aburanokōji-dōri and Nakadachiuri-dōri in Kyoto's Kamigyō Ward, the Former Nishijin Branch of Kyoto Central Telephone Office is one of the most extraordinary buildings of early twentieth-century Japan. Completed in 1921 and designated an Important Cultural Property in 2006, this reinforced-concrete structure was the visionary creation of Iwamoto Roku, a young Ministry of Communications architect whose boldly original façade drew on the spirit of German Expressionism — years before that movement became widely known in Japan. Today the building serves as the Nishijin Sangyō Sōzō Kaikan, a coworking and innovation space, weaving a new chapter of human connection into a structure originally built to connect voices across the city.

Historical Background

By the early Taishō period (1912–1926), telephone service in Kyoto was expanding rapidly, and the city required new branch exchanges to keep pace with demand. The Nishijin Branch became the third telephone exchange office in the city. Construction began in October 1920 and was completed in December 1921. The building was designed by Iwamoto Roku (1893–1922), a young engineer of the Ministry of Communications' Construction Division (Teishinshō Eizen-ka).

Iwamoto was a man of exceptional artistic sensibility, deeply interested in painting, sculpture, and music. He poured his creative energy into this commission — his first independent project — producing a design that was unlike anything seen in Japanese government architecture at the time. Tragically, Iwamoto succumbed to tuberculosis in 1922 at the age of just 29, having designed only three buildings in his short career. The Nishijin Branch is the sole surviving work, making it an irreplaceable testament to his genius.

Why It Was Designated an Important Cultural Property

The building was designated a national Important Cultural Property in 2006 for its exterior design. The designation recognizes its extraordinary originality: Iwamoto independently arrived at a decorative vocabulary that parallels the aesthetic principles of German Expressionism, creating sculptural and abstract ornamentation that was radically ahead of its time in Japan. As the only surviving work of a brilliantly gifted architect who died young, the building holds a unique and significant place in the history of modern Japanese architecture.

Architectural Highlights and Points of Interest

The building is a reinforced-concrete and partially timber-framed structure, three stories tall, with a building area of approximately 489 square meters. Its most striking features are concentrated on the façade:

• Semi-elliptical columns and Venus torsos: Three columns with a distinctive half-elliptical cross-section rise along the main (north-facing) elevation. Atop each column sits a relief of a Venus torso — a daring decorative choice for a government utility building of the era.
• Dancer relief panels: The area around the second-floor bow windows and the eaves of the east elevation are adorned with relief panels depicting dancers, lending the façade a sense of rhythm and movement.
• Lion reliefs: A lion motif appears on the north face, adding a touch of classical grandeur.
• Bow windows: The second-floor bow windows were an unusual feature for the period and contribute to the building's distinctive silhouette.
• Abstract ornamentation: Throughout the exterior, abstract geometric and organic forms appear — decorative elements that feel remarkably modern even today.

Inside, the second floor originally housed the telephone exchange room with a raised double floor for wiring. During a sensitive renovation completed in October 2016 by NTT Facilities, the historic timber roof trusses on the third floor were exposed, and the interior was adapted for use as a modern coworking space while preserving the building's layered history. The renovation received several architecture and design awards, including the 5th Kyoto Architecture Prize (Fujii Kōji Award) in 2017.

Visitor Information

The Important Cultural Property designation applies to the exterior only, so visitors are free to view the façade at any time. The building currently operates as the Nishijin Sangyō Sōzō Kaikan (also known as Nishijin IT Roji), a coworking and business incubation space managed by NTT West. While the interior is not generally open to the public for casual sightseeing, occasional special openings and events may offer access. It is advisable to check in advance.

The building is located about a 13-minute walk (approximately 1 km) from Imadegawa Station on the Kyoto Municipal Subway Karasuma Line. Alternatively, take a Kyoto City Bus to the Horikawa-Nakadachiuri stop (routes 9, 12, 50, 67, 101), which is just a two-minute walk away. There is no dedicated visitor parking, but coin-operated parking lots can be found nearby, and the Kyoto Gyoen public parking is about 700 meters to the east.

Surrounding Attractions

The Nishijin district is the historic center of Kyoto's textile weaving industry, and a visit to the telephone office pairs well with exploration of the area's other cultural offerings. The Nishijin Textile Center is a short walk away, where visitors can see kimono fashion shows and try their hand at weaving. Kyoto Gyoen (Kyoto Imperial Palace Park) lies to the east and provides a vast, tranquil green space. Nearby, the Seimei Shrine — dedicated to the legendary onmyōji Abe no Seimei — and the Shiramine Jingū are also worth visiting. The broader Kamigyō area is rich in machiya townhouses, small temples, and craft workshops that reward leisurely exploration on foot.