Hojo Screen Paintings

Hōjō Shōhekiga: The National Treasure Sliding Door Paintings of Jukō-in

Hidden within the serene precincts of Daitoku-ji Temple in northern Kyoto lies Jukō-in, a sub-temple that houses one of the most extraordinary collections of Japanese art ever created. The Hōjō Shōhekiga — the sliding door and wall paintings of the abbot's quarters — comprise 46 panels of breathtaking ink wash paintings, all designated as National Treasures. Created by the legendary Kanō Eitoku and his father Kanō Shōei during the Momoyama period, these masterworks represent the pinnacle of Japanese painting and offer visitors a rare glimpse into the artistic brilliance of 16th-century Japan.

A Legacy Born in the Age of Warriors

Jukō-in was founded in 1566 by the warlord Miyoshi Yoshitsugu as a memorial temple for his adoptive father, Miyoshi Nagayoshi, one of the most powerful military leaders of the Sengoku (Warring States) period. The temple's name derives from Nagayoshi's posthumous Buddhist name. The abbot invited to preside over this new institution was Shōrei Sōkin, the 107th head priest of Daitoku-ji, a figure who would prove pivotal in connecting the temple to the world of tea ceremony.

It was through Shōrei Sōkin that the great tea master Sen no Rikyū came to be associated with Jukō-in. Rikyū studied Zen Buddhism under Shōrei and eventually chose Jukō-in as his own family temple. To this day, the graves of Rikyū and successive generations of the three main tea ceremony schools — Omotesenke, Urasenke, and Mushakōjisenke — stand within the temple grounds, making Jukō-in a sacred site in the world of chadō (the Way of Tea).

The Paintings: Masterworks of the Kanō School

When the Hōjō (abbot's quarters) was constructed, the Kanō family — the most influential dynasty of painters in Japanese history — was commissioned to decorate its five rooms. The task fell to Kanō Shōei, the third-generation head of the school, and his son Kanō Eitoku, then believed to be only around 24 years old. Together, father and son created a unified program of paintings that would define the aesthetic of an era.

Of the total 46 panels, 38 are designated as National Treasures in their own right, with an additional 8 small panels receiving supplementary National Treasure status. The paintings employ a sophisticated palette of ink wash, gold wash (kindei), and light color on paper, producing images that range from dramatically powerful to delicately refined.

Room by Room: A Journey Through Genius

Each room of the Hōjō features a distinct theme and artistic character, reflecting the contrasting styles of father and son.

Why Were They Designated a National Treasure?

The Hōjō Shōhekiga received National Treasure designation in 1957 for several compelling reasons. Kanō Eitoku is regarded as one of the most important painters in Japanese art history, yet the majority of his monumental works — including those at Azuchi Castle, Jurakudai Palace, and Osaka Castle — were destroyed by fire and warfare. The Jukō-in paintings are the only surviving set of Eitoku's work on this grand scale, making them irreplaceable documents of his genius.

Furthermore, the paintings represent the birth of the Momoyama painting style, characterized by bold compositions, dynamic brushwork, and a powerful sense of volume that would define Japanese decorative art for centuries to come. The coexistence of father and son's contrasting styles within a single architectural space also provides invaluable insight into the evolution of the Kanō school during its most transformative period.

Preservation and the Art of Replication

In a pioneering effort to preserve these fragile masterpieces, the original panels were entrusted to the Kyoto National Museum beginning in 2006. Dai Nippon Printing (DNP) created extraordinarily precise digital replicas using their proprietary Denshōbi technology, and these replicas now adorn the Hōjō in place of the originals. The quality is so remarkable that even the temple's head priest expressed astonishment at their fidelity.

Periodically, the original paintings are returned to Jukō-in for special exhibitions. The most notable of these was in 2016, marking the temple's 450th anniversary, when all 46 original panels were reunited in their intended setting, attracting approximately 100,000 visitors. A subsequent homecoming exhibition took place from September 2022 to March 2023.

Beyond the Paintings: Jukō-in's Other Treasures

The temple offers much more than its famous paintings. The Hōjō building itself is designated an Important Cultural Property as a fine example of Momoyama-period Zen architecture. South of the Hōjō lies the Hyakuseki no Niwa (Garden of a Hundred Stones), a dry landscape garden traditionally attributed to Sen no Rikyū, said to have been designed based on a preliminary sketch by Kanō Eitoku. This garden is designated a National Place of Scenic Beauty.

Two tea rooms, both designated Important Cultural Properties, reflect the deep connection between Jukō-in and the world of tea ceremony. The Kaninseki is a small, austere three-mat tearoom built in the spirit of Rikyū's wabi aesthetic, while the Masudokoseki is a somewhat more spacious four-and-a-half-mat room with a distinctive sunken alcove.

In 2013, the temple's new Shoin (study hall) was completed, featuring contemporary sliding door paintings titled "Waterfalls" by the internationally acclaimed Japanese painter Hiroshi Senju. These luminous works in mineral pigments create a stunning dialogue between classical and contemporary Japanese art.

Visiting Jukō-in

Jukō-in is normally closed to the public, making it one of Kyoto's most exclusive cultural experiences. The temple opens its doors only during special exhibition periods organized by Kyoto Shunju, a cultural tourism organization. During these openings, visitors are guided through the temple in small groups, with explanations provided by temple staff or volunteer guides.

When the original National Treasure paintings are on display (during special homecoming exhibitions), the admission fee is typically around 2,000 yen. During regular special openings featuring the high-precision replicas, the fee may vary. Reservations are strongly recommended and can be made through the Kyoto Shunju website or by telephone. Photography is not permitted inside the temple.

Because exhibition schedules change from year to year, visitors are advised to check the Kyoto Shunju website for the latest information before planning their visit.

Nearby Attractions

Jukō-in sits within the vast compound of Daitoku-ji, one of Kyoto's greatest Zen temple complexes. Several other sub-temples offer regular public access and provide excellent opportunities to deepen your experience of Zen culture.

• Daisen-in: Famous for its masterful dry landscape garden, considered one of Japan's finest karesansui compositions.
• Ryōgen-in: Home to several beautiful gardens including Japan's smallest stone garden.
• Zuihō-in: Features a modern Christian-themed dry landscape garden designed by Shigemori Mirei.
• Kōtō-in: Celebrated for its stunning maple-lined approach and tranquil moss garden (currently undergoing restoration).
• Imamiya Shrine: Located just east of Daitoku-ji, famous for its aburimochi (grilled rice cake) shops that have operated for centuries.