Kaijusenji Temple Five-Story Pagoda

Five-Story Pagoda of Kaijusenji Temple: A National Treasure from the Kamakura Period

Nestled on the slopes of Mount Kaijusan in Kizugawa City, southern Kyoto Prefecture, Kaijusenji Temple (海住山寺) guards one of Japan's most remarkable architectural treasures — a graceful five-story pagoda designated as a National Treasure. Built in 1214 during the Kamakura period, this vermilion-lacquered pagoda stands as the sole surviving five-story pagoda from its era, offering visitors an extraordinary encounter with over 800 years of Japanese Buddhist heritage.

Far from the bustling tourist corridors of Kyoto city, Kaijusenji Temple rewards the journey with serene mountain scenery, panoramic views over the ancient Mikanohara plain, and a chance to experience the spiritual atmosphere that once inspired some of medieval Japan's most influential Buddhist monks.

The History of Kaijusenji Temple

The origins of Kaijusenji Temple date back to the Nara period. According to temple tradition, it was founded in 735 (Tenpyo 7) by the monk Roben, under the imperial decree of Emperor Shomu. Originally known as Kannonji (観音寺), the temple was established at this mountainside location — situated in the kimon (demon gate) direction northeast of what would become the short-lived Kuni-kyo capital — to pray for the successful construction of the Great Buddha at Todaiji Temple in Nara.

After the entire temple complex was destroyed by fire in 1137, it lay in ruins for decades. The pivotal revival came in 1208 when the eminent monk Jokei (also known as Gedatsu Shonin, 1155–1213) relocated from Kasagidera Temple and rebuilt the monastery. Jokei renamed it Fudarakusan Kaijusenji, drawing inspiration from Fudaraku (Potalaka), the mythical paradise of Kannon, the Bodhisattva of Compassion. Jokei was a towering figure in Kamakura-period Buddhism, known for his passionate advocacy for the restoration of monastic discipline and his criticism of contemporary religious trends.

After Jokei's death in 1213, his disciple Kakushin (Jishin Shonin) continued the restoration work, overseeing the completion of the five-story pagoda and expanding the temple's cultural legacy. At its peak, Kaijusenji Temple boasted 58 sub-temples, a testament to its once-great influence in the region.

Why It Is Designated a National Treasure

The five-story pagoda of Kaijusenji Temple was first designated as an Important Cultural Property in 1898, and elevated to National Treasure status in 1952. Several factors make this pagoda exceptionally significant in the history of Japanese architecture.

First, it is the only surviving five-story pagoda from the Kamakura period (1185–1333) in all of Japan, making it an irreplaceable example of medieval temple architecture. Standing at approximately 17.7 meters, it is the second smallest outdoor five-story pagoda in the country, after the famous pagoda at Muroji Temple in Nara Prefecture.

The pagoda features a mokoshi (裳階), a decorative pent roof attached beneath the eaves of the first story. This architectural feature, which creates the visual impression of an additional floor, is found on only two five-story pagodas in Japan — this one and the pagoda at Horyuji Temple. The mokoshi was added shortly after the original construction, removed during later renovations, and finally restored during a comprehensive dismantling and repair project in 1962.

Another structurally distinctive feature is the placement of the central pillar (shinbashira). Unlike most five-story pagodas where the central pillar extends from the foundation to the top, at Kaijusenji the pillar begins above the ceiling of the first story. This technique represents the oldest known example among surviving five-story pagodas in Japan.

The interior is also exceptional. The area enclosed by the four inner pillars (shitenchu) is fashioned in the style of a miniature shrine (zushi), with hinged doors on all four sides. The walls, doors, and pillars within this inner sanctum preserve beautiful polychrome paintings of heavenly beings (tenbu) and Buddhist monks, along with decorative patterns — rare surviving examples of Kamakura-period temple art. The pagoda was originally built to enshrine Buddhist relics (busshari), reflecting the deep devotion to relic worship that characterized this era.

Highlights and Attractions

Surrounding Attractions

Kaijusenji Temple is located in the Minami Yamashiro (southern Yamashiro) region, an area rich with ancient temples and natural beauty along the Kyoto-Nara border.

• Joruriji Temple — Approximately 8 km east, this temple features a National Treasure main hall, three-story pagoda, and nine Amida Nyorai statues, evoking the Buddhist Pure Land paradise.
• Gansenji Temple — A charming Nara-period temple known for its three-story pagoda (Important Cultural Property) and beautiful hydrangea gardens in early summer.
• Kuni-kyo Palace Ruins — The archaeological remains of Emperor Shomu's short-lived capital (740–744), located at the foot of Mount Kaijusan, with visible foundation stones of the Great Hall of State.
• Tono Stone Buddha Trail — A scenic 1.7 km walking path between Joruriji and Gansenji temples, passing over 40 magaibutsu (Buddhist images carved into natural rock), offering a unique spiritual hiking experience.
• Kyoto Prefectural Yamashiro Regional Museum — Located in nearby Kamo, this museum presents the archaeological and cultural heritage of the southern Yamashiro district.