Calligraphy by Xutang Zhiyu: A National Treasure of Zen Ink

Deep within the vast temple complex of Daitoku-ji in Kyoto's Murasakino district lies one of Japan's most revered National Treasures—a scroll of calligraphy brushed by the hand of the great Chinese Chan (Zen) master Xutang Zhiyu (1185–1269). Known in Japanese as Kidō Chigu Bokuseki (Daruma-ki Nenkōgo), this remarkable work records the dharma words recited by the master while offering incense at a memorial service for Bodhidharma, the legendary founder of Zen Buddhism. More than just a piece of fine calligraphy, this scroll is a tangible bridge connecting the spiritual traditions of Song dynasty China with the Zen culture that would profoundly shape Japanese civilization.

Who Was Xutang Zhiyu?

Xutang Zhiyu was one of the most eminent Zen monks of the Southern Song dynasty. Born in 1185 in Xiangshan in Zhejiang Province, he entered monastic life at the age of sixteen and eventually received dharma transmission from Yun'an Puyan, becoming a prominent figure in the Rinzai (Linji) school's Matsugensō lineage. Over the course of his long career, he served as abbot of some of China's most prestigious Zen monasteries, including Yuwangshan Guangli-ji, Jingci-si, and the great Jingshan Xingsheng Wanshou-ji, where he held the position of 40th abbot.

What makes Xutang especially significant for Japanese Buddhist history is that one of his disciples was Nanpo Jōmyō (1235–1308), a Japanese monk who traveled to China to study under him. Nanpo brought Xutang's dharma lineage back to Japan, and his student Shūhō Myōchō (Daitō Kokushi) went on to found Daitoku-ji itself. This direct spiritual lineage—from Xutang through Nanpo to Daitō Kokushi—is the reason Daitoku-ji treasures the master's calligraphy so deeply. Indeed, today the Ōtōkan lineage descended from Xutang remains the only existing line of dharma transmission in Japanese Rinzai Zen.

What Is the Daruma-ki Nenkōgo?

The term Daruma-ki refers to the memorial service held for Bodhidharma (Daruma in Japanese), the Indian monk traditionally credited as the founder of Chan/Zen Buddhism. Nenkōgo (literally "incense-pinching words") describes the dharma talk or verse recited by the presiding master as he burns incense during the ceremony. In this scroll, Xutang recorded the words he spoke at one such Bodhidharma memorial service—a solemn and spiritually charged occasion in the Zen monastic calendar.

The calligraphy dates from the late period of Xutang's life, estimated to have been written during his tenure as abbot of Jingshan Wanshou-ji between 1267 and 1269. The scroll measures approximately 41.7 cm in height and 120 cm in width, and is executed in black ink on paper in a single hanging scroll format. The brushwork is characteristic of Xutang's mature style—seemingly unhurried yet underpinned by formidable inner strength and spiritual clarity.

Why It Became a National Treasure

This calligraphy was designated a National Treasure of Japan on March 29, 1952, under the category of Writings and Books (Shoseki Tenseki). Several factors contributed to this highest level of cultural recognition.

First, the work represents an authentic example of bokuseki—Zen calligraphy—by one of the most historically significant Chan masters of the Southern Song dynasty. Bokuseki is not valued primarily for technical calligraphic skill but rather as a direct expression of the writer's spiritual attainment. Xutang's brushstrokes are seen as a manifestation of enlightened mind, making the scroll a kind of spiritual relic as much as an art object.

Second, the piece occupies a unique place in the lineage connecting Chinese Chan Buddhism with Japanese Rinzai Zen. As the spiritual ancestor of Daitoku-ji's founder, Xutang is a figure of paramount importance to the temple and to Japanese Zen culture broadly. This scroll serves as physical evidence of that living connection spanning over seven centuries.

Third, the provenance of the scroll is exceptionally distinguished. It was once owned by Yamanoue Sōji (1544–1590), one of the foremost disciples of the legendary tea master Sen no Rikyū. From Yamanoue Sōji, the scroll passed through the hands of Kuwayama Shigeharu, a retainer of Toyotomi Hidenaga, before being donated to Daitoku-ji, where it has remained ever since.

Bokuseki and the World of Tea

To fully appreciate this National Treasure, one must understand the profound relationship between Zen calligraphy and the Japanese tea ceremony. In the world of chanoyu (tea), hanging scrolls of bokuseki are regarded as the most esteemed decorations for the tea room's tokonoma alcove. Among all the great Chan and Zen calligraphers, Xutang Zhiyu's works have been particularly cherished by tea masters since the Muromachi period.

This reverence stems from the fact that the great tea masters—from Murata Jukō through Takeno Jōō to Sen no Rikyū—all maintained deep connections with the Daitoku-ji lineage of Zen. Since Xutang stands at the spiritual root of that lineage, his calligraphy carries special authority and resonance within tea culture. The fact that this particular scroll was once owned by Yamanoue Sōji, Rikyū's most accomplished student and the author of the influential tea treatise Yamanoue Sōji Ki, only deepens its significance in the history of chanoyu.

Viewing Opportunities

As a work of extraordinary fragility and value, this National Treasure is not on permanent display. However, there are several opportunities for visitors to potentially view it.

Historically, Daitoku-ji has held an annual bakuryō-ten (airing exhibition) on the second Sunday of October, during which the temple's collection of paintings and calligraphy—including National Treasures—is displayed in the normally closed Main Abbot's Quarters (Hōjō) for public viewing. However, the Main Abbot's Quarters entered a major restoration project beginning in winter 2020 with an estimated duration of approximately ten years, so the traditional format of the bakuryō-ten may be modified. Visitors should check the latest information before planning a trip.

A major upcoming opportunity is the special exhibition "Daitoku-ji: The Peerless Zen Monastery of Japan" at the Tokyo National Museum, scheduled from October 14 to December 6, 2026, commemorating the 700th anniversary of Daitoku-ji's founding. This landmark exhibition will bring together treasures from Daitoku-ji and its sub-temples for public display. While the exact list of exhibited works has not been fully confirmed, major National Treasures from the temple's collection are expected to feature prominently.

Additionally, the calligraphy has been displayed at previous major exhibitions including the 2016 exhibition "Zen: The Heart and Form" at the Kyoto National Museum.

Exploring Daitoku-ji

A visit to Daitoku-ji is rewarding regardless of whether this particular scroll is on display. The temple complex, founded in 1325 by Shūhō Myōchō with the patronage of Emperor Go-Daigo, is one of Kyoto's largest Zen monasteries. Emperor Go-Daigo praised it as "the peerless Zen monastery in all of Japan" (honchō musō no zen'en)—a distinction the temple carries to this day.

The complex contains over twenty sub-temples (tacchū), several of which open to the public either year-round or during special seasonal exhibitions. Notable highlights include the Daisen-in, known for its National Treasure main hall and exquisite dry landscape garden; the Ryōgen-in, with its collection of intimate stone gardens; and the Kōtō-in, famous for its maple-lined approach path spectacular in autumn.

The main temple's National Treasure Karamon (Chinese Gate) is also an architectural highlight, believed to have been relocated from Toyotomi Hideyoshi's Jurakudai palace. Its elaborate carvings of dragons, carp, and other motifs are so captivating that it earned the nickname "Higurashi-mon" (the gate that makes you forget the passing of the day). The Hōjō (Abbot's Quarters), also designated a National Treasure, features sliding screen paintings by Kanō Tan'yū, though access may be restricted during the current restoration period.

Nearby Attractions

The Daitoku-ji area in northern Kyoto offers a wealth of additional cultural experiences. Immediately to the west is the Imamiya Shrine, beloved for its aburi mochi (grilled rice cake) shops that have operated for centuries. A short walk south brings visitors to Funaoka Onsen, one of Kyoto's most atmospheric traditional bathhouses. The Kitaōji area is also convenient for accessing other major temples such as Kinkaku-ji (the Golden Pavilion) and Kamigamo Shrine, both UNESCO World Heritage sites.

For those interested in further exploring Zen calligraphy and art, the Kyoto National Museum regularly exhibits bokuseki and related works from Kyoto's many temple collections, providing valuable context for understanding treasures like the Xutang bokuseki.