Myoho-in Temple Priests' Quarters

Myohoin Kuri: A National Treasure Kitchen from the Momoyama Period

Tucked away in Kyoto's Higashiyama district, just steps from some of the city's most celebrated landmarks, the Kuri (kitchen building) of Myohoin Temple stands as one of Japan's most impressive examples of Momoyama-period architecture. Designated a National Treasure in 1957, this monumental wooden structure once served as the kitchen where meals were prepared for a grand Buddhist ceremony hosted by the legendary warlord Toyotomi Hideyoshi. While many visitors to the Higashiyama Shichijo area focus on the nearby Sanjusangendo Hall and Kyoto National Museum, Myohoin's Kuri offers a rare window into the bold, grandiose spirit of late sixteenth-century Japan—a hidden gem that rewards those who venture beyond the well-trodden tourist path.

About Myohoin Temple

Myohoin is a prestigious Tendai Buddhist temple with roots stretching back to the founding of the sect itself. Tradition holds that the temple was established by Saicho, the founder of Tendai Buddhism in Japan. Over the centuries, Myohoin rose to become one of the "Three Tendai Monzeki" temples, alongside Shoren-in and Sanzen-in (also known as Kajii Monzeki). The term "monzeki" refers to a special class of temple whose abbots were exclusively drawn from the imperial family or high-ranking nobility—a distinction that reflects the temple's deep ties to the highest levels of Japanese society.

Myohoin is closely associated with two pivotal figures in Japanese history. In the late twelfth century, the retired Emperor Go-Shirakawa established his grand residential complex, the Hojujidono, in the immediate vicinity, forging an early bond between the temple and the imperial court. Centuries later, the powerful warlord Toyotomi Hideyoshi incorporated Myohoin into his ambitious temple complex centered on the Great Buddha Hall of Hokoji (Hoko-ji Temple), dramatically expanding the temple's influence and physical scale. Today, Myohoin continues to administer the famous Sanjusangendo (Rengeo-in), home to 1,001 statues of the Thousand-Armed Kannon, which remains under the temple's institutional care.

The Kuri: Japan's Grandest Temple Kitchen

The Kuri is the centerpiece of the Myohoin temple compound. Built around 1595 during the Momoyama period, this imposing structure is far more than an ordinary temple kitchen. It is believed to have been constructed in connection with Toyotomi Hideyoshi's "Senso Kuyo" (Thousand Monks Memorial Ceremony), a massive Buddhist ritual held at the neighboring Hokoji Temple. For this ceremony, Hideyoshi assembled monks from all eight major Buddhist sects of the time and ordered them to attend monthly memorial services for his deceased ancestors. The Kuri served as the kitchen where food was prepared for these hundreds of monks—a logistical feat that required a building of extraordinary scale.

With dimensions of approximately 21.8 meters along the ridge (ketayuki) and 23.7 meters in depth (harama), the Kuri is among the largest temple kitchens in Japan. Its nearly square floor plan is unusual for a kuri, which typically have a wider frontage than depth. The building is a single-story structure with an impressive irimoya-zukuri (hipped-and-gabled) roof covered in traditional hon-kawara (formal ceramic tiles)—a rare choice for a kuri, as most temple kitchens employ the simpler kirizuma (gable) roof style. Atop the main ridge sits a distinctive smaller secondary roof that serves as a smoke ventilator, allowing the heat and smoke from cooking to escape safely. This ventilator is said to have also functioned as a watchtower, lending the building a fortress-like presence.

Inside, the Kuri is divided into three main areas: the doma (earthen-floored kitchen area) at the front, a broad ita-no-ma (wooden-floored hall) behind it, and formal zashiki (tatami rooms) at the rear. In the doma and ita-no-ma sections, no ceiling boards have been installed, leaving the massive network of beams, purlins, and rafters fully exposed. These structural timbers soar more than 15 meters overhead, blackened by over four centuries of soot—a dramatic testament to the building's continuous use and the passage of time. The bold, unadorned display of structural elements exemplifies the vigorous and expansive spirit that defined Momoyama-period architecture.

Why Was It Designated a National Treasure?

The Kuri was first designated as an Important Cultural Property in 1914, and was elevated to National Treasure status in 1957. Several factors contributed to this prestigious recognition.

First, the building's interior timber framework is considered an outstanding example of Momoyama-period structural engineering. The intricate arrangement of beams and supports demonstrates remarkable craftsmanship and ingenuity, reflecting the bold, ambitious architectural sensibility of the era. Second, the use of an irimoya (hipped-and-gabled) roof on a kuri is exceptionally rare in Japanese temple architecture, making this building a unique case study in architectural history. Third, the Kuri's historical association with Toyotomi Hideyoshi and the Senso Kuyo ceremony gives it immense cultural significance as a tangible link to one of the most transformative periods in Japanese history. The building stands alongside the Kuri of Zuigan-ji Temple in Matsushima (also a National Treasure) and the Kuri of Myoshin-ji Temple in Kyoto as one of the three most celebrated temple kitchens in Japan.

Highlights and What to See

Although Myohoin is generally not open to the public as a regular tourist temple, visitors can freely enter the temple grounds and admire the Kuri from the outside. The building's massive scale and distinctive silhouette—with its sweeping irimoya roof crowned by the smoke ventilator—are visually striking even from a distance. Information boards on the grounds provide helpful explanations about the Kuri and the temple's history.

Special public openings are occasionally held, particularly around May 14 (the temple's annual Gogatsu-e ceremony) and during the autumn special viewing season, typically in November. During these rare opportunities, visitors may be able to see the interior, including the spectacular exposed timber framework and the soot-darkened beams that evoke the atmosphere of centuries past. The temple's Oshoin (Grand Study Hall), an Important Cultural Property featuring lavish gold-leaf sliding door paintings by artists of the Kano School, and the formal Genkan (Entrance Hall), also an Important Cultural Property, may also be viewable during special openings.

It is important to note that the Kuri has been undergoing a major semi-dismantling restoration project since 2020, with work expected to continue until around 2027. During this period, access to parts of the grounds may be restricted, and the building may be partially covered by scaffolding. However, repair site viewings have been held on occasion, offering a once-in-a-lifetime chance to observe the meticulous conservation techniques used to preserve National Treasure architecture.

Surrounding Attractions

Myohoin is situated in one of Kyoto's richest cultural zones. The Higashiyama Shichijo area is home to an exceptional concentration of historical and artistic landmarks, making it easy to combine a visit to Myohoin with explorations of nearby sites.

• Sanjusangendo (Rengeo-in): Administered by Myohoin, this world-famous hall houses 1,001 gilded statues of the Thousand-Armed Kannon and is a must-see destination for any visitor to Kyoto.
• Kyoto National Museum: One of Japan's premier museums, located directly across the street, with outstanding collections of Japanese art and cultural artifacts.
• Chishaku-in Temple: The head temple of the Chisan branch of Shingon Buddhism, known for its beautiful garden and National Treasure paintings by Hasegawa Tohaku.
• Hokoji Temple (Hoko-ji): The site of Hideyoshi's Great Buddha project, where visitors can still see the massive stone walls and the famous bell whose inscription triggered the downfall of the Toyotomi clan.
• Toyokuni Shrine: Dedicated to Toyotomi Hideyoshi himself, featuring a magnificent karamon gate designated as a National Treasure.
• Yogen-in Temple: A small but fascinating temple known for its "blood ceiling," made from the floorboards of Fushimi Castle.