Seiunin Shoin

Reiunin Shoin: A Masterpiece of Early Shoin Architecture at Myoshinji Temple

Tucked within the vast temple complex of Myoshinji in Kyoto's Ukyo Ward, the Shoin (study hall) of Reiunin stands as one of the finest surviving examples of early shoin-style architecture from the Muromachi period. Designated as an Important Cultural Property of Japan, this intimate building — once graced by the presence of Emperor Go-Nara — offers visitors a rare glimpse into the refined aesthetic world of 16th-century Zen culture. Together with the Dojinsai room within the Togudo at Ginkakuji (the Silver Pavilion), the Reiunin Shoin is recognized as one of the most significant small-scale shoin structures from the Higashiyama era.

Historical Background

Reiunin was founded in 1526 by Daikyu Sokyu, the 25th abbot of Myoshinji, who invited his own master, Tokuho Zenketsu, as the honorary founding priest. The temple's establishment was made possible through the generous patronage of the nun Modo Seihan-ni. As one of the four principal sub-temples (Shiha Shihon-an) of Myoshinji, Reiunin served as the headquarters of the Reiunha — one of the four lineage branches that have governed Myoshinji's affairs since the late 15th century.

Around 1532, the Shoin was constructed adjacent to the main hall. Shortly after its completion, Emperor Go-Nara (r. 1526–1557) began making frequent imperial visits to Reiunin, drawn by his deep reverence for Zen Master Daikyu Sokyu. The emperor received Zen instruction from Daikyu, and the room where he was received became known as the Miyuki-no-Ma (Imperial Visit Chamber). Following Daikyu's retirement, the doors of this chamber were reportedly kept closed for approximately sixty years, preserving its sacred atmosphere.

Why It Was Designated an Important Cultural Property

The Reiunin Shoin holds exceptional value as a representative example of early shoin-style residential architecture from the Muromachi period. Its significance lies in several key aspects. First, the building is one of only a handful of surviving small-scale shoin structures from the Higashiyama era (late 15th to early 16th centuries), placing it alongside the famous Dojinsai at Ginkakuji as a benchmark of this architectural style. Second, the Shoin preserves characteristic features of the period, including a chodaigamae (canopied alcove), chigaidana (staggered shelves), and tokonoma (decorative alcove), all arranged within an intimate three-room layout. Third, the building is historically connected to Emperor Go-Nara's imperial visits, giving it additional importance as a tangible link between Zen practice and the imperial court.

Architectural Highlights and Points of Interest

The Shoin is a single-story structure with a kirizuma (gabled) roof covered in kokera-buki (thin wooden shingles). It consists of three rooms arranged in sequence: a four-and-a-half tatami room with a tokonoma alcove, a five-and-a-half tatami room with chigaidana shelves, and an innermost three-tatami chamber — the Miyuki-no-Ma. The central room features a chodaigamae canopy structure, while the corner includes elegant staggered shelves. An upper transom (ranma) creates a sense of separation between spaces while maintaining visual continuity.

The building was reportedly constructed by a craftsman named Ryuan. It is said that the famous tearoom Myokian in Yamazaki was modeled after this Shoin, and the renowned tea master Kanamori Sowa also drew inspiration from its design.

The Shoin once housed stunning ink wash paintings by Kano Motonobu, one of the greatest painters of the Muromachi period. Motonobu is believed to have created these works around age 68 during his stay at Reiunin while studying Zen under Daikyu. The paintings — rendered in the formal (shin), semi-cursive (gyo), and cursive (so) styles — depicted landscapes, flowers, birds, and human figures. Although these works have since been remounted as hanging scrolls (49 scrolls in total) and designated separately as Important Cultural Properties, they earned Reiunin the nickname "Motonobu-dera" (Motonobu's Temple). In 1988, modern Japanese painter Kurimitsu Shigeki created new wall paintings in the Miyuki-no-Ma, featuring cranes, plum blossoms, and young pines.

The Garden

Adjacent to the Shoin lies a celebrated karesansui (dry landscape) garden, designated as both a National Historic Site and a Place of Scenic Beauty. Attributed to Shiken Saido of Shokokuji Temple's Jiun-an, this compact garden packs remarkable complexity into a tiny space. Approximately twenty carefully arranged stones create a miniature representation of Horai (the mythical isle of immortals), incorporating a dry waterfall composition and a crane-shaped stone grouping. The abstract quality of the stone arrangements is notable and reflects the artistic sensibilities of the Muromachi era.

Visitor Information and Surrounding Area

Reiunin is generally not open to the public, but special openings are occasionally held as part of Kyoto cultural heritage programs such as "Kyo no Fuyu no Tabi" (Kyoto Winter Journey). During these limited openings, visitors can view the Shoin interior, the garden, and selected cultural properties. The temple also offers regular Zen meditation sessions (zazen) and Dharma talks for those wishing to experience Zen practice firsthand.

Myoshinji's vast compound, home to 46 sub-temples, offers plenty to explore nearby. The main temple buildings — including the Dharma Hall with its magnificent ceiling dragon painting by Kano Tanyu and Japan's oldest temple bell (a National Treasure) — are accessible through guided tours. Neighboring sub-temples that occasionally open to visitors include Taizoin, known for its garden and Kano Motonobu paintings, and Keishunin, with its lovely moss garden. The area around Myoshinji is also close to attractions such as Ryoanji Temple (a UNESCO World Heritage Site famous for its rock garden) and Ninnaji Temple.