Mikoshi Storehouse of Tamateyori Matsurikitaru Sakatoke Shrine: Japan's Oldest Surviving Itakura Warehouse

Perched high on the slopes of Mt. Tennozan in the town of Oyamazaki, Kyoto Prefecture, the Mikoshi Storehouse (Mikoshi-gura) of Tamateyori Matsurikitaru Sakatoke Shrine stands as a remarkable testament to medieval Japanese architectural ingenuity. Designated as an Important Cultural Property of Japan, this humble yet extraordinary storehouse is the oldest surviving example of itakura (plank-built) construction in the country — a rare and precious link to the building traditions of the Kamakura period (1185–1333).

While millions of visitors flock to Kyoto's famous temples and shrines, this hidden cultural treasure awaits those willing to hike the historic trails of Mt. Tennozan — the very mountain where the legendary Battle of Yamazaki unfolded in 1582, deciding the fate of Japan.

About Sakatoke Shrine

Tamateyori Matsurikitaru Sakatoke Shrine — commonly known simply as Sakatoke Shrine or affectionately called "Sakatoke-san" by locals — is the oldest shrine in the Otokuni district. Its formal name is one of the longest and most distinctive among Japanese shrines, reading "Tamateyori Matsurikitaru Sakatoke Jinja" in full.

The shrine is dedicated to Oyamatsumi-no-Kami, the deity of mountains who is also revered as the ancestral god of sake brewing (Sakatoke-no-Kami). The secondary enshrined deity is Susanoo-no-Mikoto. Records suggest the shrine's origins date to at least 717 CE (the first year of the Yōrō era), based on a ridge-beam tag (munafuda) discovered at the site, placing its founding firmly in the Nara period.

Originally situated at the foot of the mountain where Rikyū Hachimangū shrine now stands, the shrine was relocated to its current mountaintop position during the medieval period. Before the Meiji era, it was known as the Tenjin Hachiōji Shrine and enshrined Gozu Tennō (the Ox-Head King), from which Mt. Tennozan — literally "Heavenly King Mountain" — derives its name.

The Mikoshi Storehouse: Japan's Oldest Itakura Structure

The Mikoshi Storehouse sits just in front of the main hall, elevated on a small terrace to the south. Built during the Kamakura period, this storehouse is constructed using the extremely rare itakura (板倉) technique — a method of building walls by stacking thick planks of Japanese cypress (hinoki), each approximately 14 centimeters thick, within grooved pillars.

This construction method differs from the more commonly known azekura (校倉) technique — such as that used at the famous Shōsōin treasure house in Nara — which employs triangular-section timbers. The itakura method instead uses flat, thick planks fitted horizontally into vertical grooves, creating a structure that is both remarkably sturdy and well-ventilated, with natural humidity regulation and sound insulation properties.

The storehouse measures approximately 5.45 meters along the ridge (three bays) and 4.39 meters in depth (two bays). It features a kirizuma-zukuri (gabled) roof covered with hon-kawara (traditional ceramic) tiles. Dendrochronological analysis has confirmed that parts of the building's timber date to the early Kamakura period, making it the second-oldest itakura structure in Japan after the middle section of the Shōsōin at Tōdaiji Temple.

Inside the storehouse, two mikoshi (portable shrines) believed to date from the Muromachi period or earlier are preserved. These sacred palanquins are carried through the streets of Oyamazaki during the shrine's Shinkōsai festival, which takes place every other year on May 4th.

Why Was It Designated an Important Cultural Property?

The Mikoshi Storehouse was designated as an Important Cultural Property on April 30, 1921 (Taishō 10), along with an attached ridge-beam tag (munafuda). Several factors contributed to this prestigious designation.

First, its exceptional rarity: among all Important Cultural Properties in Japan, the only other itakura-style structure is found at Kasuga Taisha in Nara, but that building dates from the Edo period — centuries newer than the Sakatoke Shrine example. The storehouse at Sakatoke Shrine is the oldest surviving itakura structure in Japan, making it an irreplaceable resource for understanding medieval construction techniques.

Second, the building survived a devastating fire in 1813 (Bunka 10) that destroyed virtually all other structures at the shrine, including the main hall. While the main hall was rebuilt in 1820, the storehouse's survival through this catastrophe means it retains its original Kamakura-period construction, offering authentic architectural evidence from over 700 years ago.

Third, the itakura technique itself represents an important chapter in the history of Japanese warehouse construction. Before the widespread adoption of earthen-walled storehouses (dozō) from the Kamakura period onward, wooden plank construction was used at important shrines and imperial storehouses. The tradition can also be found at Ise Grand Shrine, connecting this humble mountaintop building to the very highest levels of Japanese sacred architecture.

Highlights and What to See

Though the storehouse is enclosed by a protective fence and cannot be entered, visitors can appreciate its distinctive architecture from a short distance. The thick, horizontally stacked planks forming the walls are clearly visible and convey the building's remarkable age and craftsmanship. Look carefully at the precision with which each plank sits within the grooved pillars — a technique perfected by medieval craftsmen without modern tools.

The surrounding shrine grounds offer additional points of interest. The main hall (honden), rebuilt in 1820 in the gonagare-zukuri style, is itself a Registered Tangible Cultural Property featuring elaborate carvings in its transoms and kaerumata (frog-leg struts). Near the torii gate stands the Hatatatematsu — a pine tree commemorating the spot where Toyotomi Hideyoshi is said to have raised his golden gourd banner during the Battle of Yamazaki in 1582. The current tree is the seventh generation.

The shrine also houses several smaller sub-shrines including Itsukushima-sha, Goken-sha, and Sannomiya, each with their own enshrined deities and historical significance. The atmosphere of the entire precinct, enveloped in ancient forest on the mountainside, creates a deeply spiritual experience far removed from the crowds of central Kyoto.

The Mt. Tennozan Hiking Experience

Visiting the Mikoshi Storehouse is best combined with a hike up Mt. Tennozan (270.4 meters), one of the most historically significant mountains in Japan. The shrine sits at approximately the ninth station (9-gōme), about 100 meters below the summit.

The main hiking trail begins near JR Yamazaki Station and passes through the grounds of Hōshakuji Temple before ascending through dense forest. The route, known as "Hideyoshi no Michi" (Hideyoshi's Path), features informational panels telling the story of the Battle of Yamazaki. The hike from the station to the shrine takes approximately 40–45 minutes at a moderate pace.

Along the way, hikers pass the memorial to the Seventeen Martyrs of the Kinmon Incident (1864), where loyalist samurai including Maki Izumi met their end. At the summit, the ruins of Yamazaki Castle — Hideyoshi's temporary stronghold — offer panoramic views of the confluence of the Katsura, Uji, and Kizu rivers, with the Osaka Plain stretching to the horizon.

The trail is well-maintained and suitable for casual hikers, though sturdy footwear is recommended. Spring cherry blossoms and autumn foliage make these seasons particularly rewarding for the climb.

Nearby Attractions

The Oyamazaki area offers a wonderful concentration of cultural and leisure attractions that complement a visit to Sakatoke Shrine. The Asahi Group Oyamazaki Villa Museum of Art, located on the lower slopes of Mt. Tennozan, is housed in an elegant English-style villa built in the early Shōwa era by the industrialist Kaga Shōtarō. The museum features Mingei (folk art) movement works and Claude Monet's Water Lilies series in an underground gallery designed by the renowned architect Andō Tadao.

At the foot of the mountain, the Suntory Yamazaki Distillery — Japan's first and oldest malt whisky distillery, founded in 1923 — offers tours and tastings (advance reservation required). The Rikyū Hachimangū shrine, standing on the original site of Sakatoke Shrine, and the Myōkian temple housing the National Treasure tea room "Taian" attributed to the legendary tea master Sen no Rikyū are also within walking distance of the station.

For architecture enthusiasts, the nearby Chōchikukyo residence — a pioneering modernist Japanese home designed by architect Fujii Kōji in 1928 and designated as an Important Cultural Property — offers guided tours on select days.