Daihoji Three-Storied Pagoda: The "Looking Back Pagoda" of Nagano

Tucked away in the tranquil hills of Aoki Village in Nagano Prefecture, the Three-Storied Pagoda of Daihoji Temple is one of Japan's most exquisite National Treasure structures. Built in 1333 during the transition from the Kamakura to the Nanbokucho period, this pagoda has captivated visitors for nearly seven centuries with its graceful proportions and harmonious relationship with the surrounding mountain landscape. It earned the beloved nickname "Mikaeri no Tō" — the "Looking Back Pagoda" — because its beauty is said to compel visitors to turn around for one last look as they walk away.

A Temple with Over 1,300 Years of History

Daihoji Temple, formally known as Ichijōzan Daihoji, is a Tendai Buddhist temple whose origins stretch back to the early 8th century. According to temple records, it was established during the Taihō era (701–704) by the priest Jōe, a son of the influential statesman Fujiwara no Kamatari. The temple was originally built as a waystation temple for Urano Umaya, a horse station along the ancient Tōsandō highway that connected the capital with the eastern provinces.

During the early Heian period (806–810), the temple was revitalized under the patronage of the famed general Sakanoue no Tamuramaro, with the Tendai priest Gishin overseeing its restoration. Throughout the Kamakura period, Daihoji received the devoted support of local feudal lords, including the Urano and Hōjō clans, who contributed the magnificent cultural properties that survive to this day.

Why Was the Pagoda Designated a National Treasure?

The Three-Storied Pagoda was first designated as an Important Cultural Property in 1899 and elevated to National Treasure status on March 31, 1953. Several factors contributed to this prestigious designation.

The pagoda is built in the pure Japanese wayō architectural style, demonstrating exceptional craftsmanship that rivals the finest structures in Nara and Kyoto. Standing approximately 18.56 meters tall from the foundation stone to the top of the sacred jewel ornament, it features a distinctive design where the first story is notably larger than the upper floors. This creates a sense of visual stability and elegance that is remarkably sophisticated.

A particularly rare architectural feature sets this pagoda apart: the first story employs a two-step bracket system called "futatesaki," while the second and third stories use the more standard three-step "mitesaki" system. This particular technique is found in only one other pagoda in Japan — the Three-Storied Pagoda at Kōfukuji Temple in Nara — making it an extraordinarily valuable example of medieval Japanese architecture.

The pagoda is constructed entirely without nails and roofed with hinoki cypress bark shingles. Its elegant kaerumata (frog-leg supports) and refined lattice patterns preserve the purity of Japanese architectural tradition. The harmony between the structure and the scenic mountain backdrop was also cited as a key reason for its National Treasure designation.

Highlights and Attractions

Surrounding Area: "The Kamakura of Shinano"

Daihoji is situated in the Shiodadaira region, often called "the Kamakura of Shinano" for its remarkable concentration of medieval cultural properties. The area thrived as the stronghold of the Shioda Hōjō clan during the Kamakura period, and visitors can easily combine a trip to Daihoji with other significant historical sites nearby.

• Anrakuji Temple — Home to Japan's only surviving octagonal three-storied pagoda, also a National Treasure. Located in nearby Bessho Onsen, approximately 6 km south.
• Bessho Onsen — One of Nagano's most historic hot spring towns, with a history spanning over 1,000 years. A perfect place to relax after temple visits.
• Zensan-ji Temple — Known for its Important Cultural Property three-storied pagoda, nicknamed the "Unfinished Pagoda" for its deliberately simple design without railings.
• Shinano Kokubunji Temple — Features another Important Cultural Property three-storied pagoda, the oldest in the region, surrounded by rice paddies.
• Ueda Castle — The legendary fortress of the Sanada clan, famous for repelling Tokugawa forces twice. About 30 minutes by car from Daihoji.

Daihoji also marks the Nagano starting point of the Japan Romantic Road, a scenic driving route that connects the area to Kusatsu and beyond.