Zenkaku Inari Shrine Main Hall: A Hidden Architectural Treasure in Okayama's Sacred Mountains

Nestled within the sacred grounds of Kiyama Shrine in Maniwa City, Okayama Prefecture, the Zenkaku Inari Shrine Main Hall (善覚稲荷神社本殿) stands as a remarkable testament to early 20th-century Japanese shrine architecture. This exquisite structure, designed by the renowned architect Egawa Saburohachi, has been designated as a Nationally Registered Tangible Cultural Property, drawing visitors who seek to discover Japan's lesser-known architectural treasures beyond the usual tourist routes.

A Legacy of the "Egawa-Style" Architecture

The Zenkaku Inari Shrine Main Hall was constructed in 1919 (Taisho 8) under the design supervision of Egawa Saburohachi (1860-1939), one of the most influential architectural engineers of the Meiji and Taisho periods. Born in Aizu Wakamatsu, Fukushima Prefecture, as the son of a samurai, Egawa trained as a palace carpenter before becoming a government building engineer. After serving 15 years in Fukushima Prefecture, he transferred to Okayama Prefecture in 1902, where he left an indelible mark on the regional architectural landscape.

Egawa developed a distinctive architectural approach that came to be known as "Egawa-style" (江川式建築), characterized by the innovative fusion of traditional Japanese craftsmanship with Western structural techniques. His works, including the former Senkyo Elementary School (now a National Important Cultural Property), demonstrate his mastery of creating harmonious buildings that honor both heritage and innovation.

Why It Was Designated as a Cultural Property

The Zenkaku Inari Shrine Main Hall received its designation as a Nationally Registered Tangible Cultural Property on October 27, 2017. This recognition acknowledges several distinctive architectural features that make it an exemplary representation of Egawa's design philosophy.

The structure measures 4.0 meters in width (桁行) and 3.2 meters in depth (梁間), featuring a kirizuma-zukuri (切妻造) gabled roof covered with copper plates. The building employs a hirai-ri (平入) entrance style, with an engawa veranda encircling all four sides.

What sets this shrine apart is its sophisticated construction technique: the walls are double-layered, with round columns on the exterior and square columns on the interior. The ceiling features an elegant gōtenjō (格天井) coffered design that adds depth and visual interest to the sacred space.

Perhaps most distinctive is the fukiyose-taruki (吹寄垂木) grouped rafter design under the eaves, a signature element that connects this building to other structures on the shrine grounds and exemplifies Egawa's attention to creating architectural harmony throughout a complex.

Highlights and Attractions

The Zenkaku Inari Shrine is dedicated to the deity Inari, brought from Fushimi Inari Shrine in Kyoto. According to shrine records, it was established by a mountain ascetic named Oyama Zenkakubō, from whom the shrine takes its name. The shrine is associated with prosperity, success in business, and good fortune.

Architectural Harmony

One of the most impressive aspects of visiting Zenkaku Inari Shrine is experiencing how its main hall harmonizes with other Egawa-designed structures on the Kiyama Shrine grounds. The shrine's worship hall (haiden) also features Egawa's characteristic design elements, including the fukiyose-taruki rafters, unique truss construction, and coffered ceiling. Even the foundation stones on the front side incorporate Western-style decorative motifs, demonstrating Egawa's creative synthesis of traditions.

A Journey Through Time

The Zenkaku Inari Shrine Main Hall was originally constructed at the mountain summit location of Kiyama Shrine in 1919. In 1962 (Showa 37), a major relocation project brought the structure down to the current "satomiya" (village shrine) location in the foothills. This careful preservation effort ensured that future generations could appreciate this architectural masterpiece more accessibly.

The Famous Shrine Cat

Modern visitors to Kiyama Shrine are often greeted by "Ten-chan," the shrine's beloved resident cat. This charming feline has become something of a celebrity, with the shrine offering cat-themed goshuin (shrine stamps), omamori (charms), and omikuji (fortune slips). Ten-chan's presence adds a delightful, contemporary touch to this ancient sacred space.

The Surrounding Area

The Zenkaku Inari Shrine is located within the broader Kiyama Shrine complex, which has a history spanning over 1,200 years. The main deity enshrined at Kiyama Shrine is Susanoo-no-Mikoto, and the shrine has long been revered for blessings related to livestock protection, bountiful harvests, and commercial prosperity.

The shrine grounds also include a Tenmangu dedicated to the deity of learning, Sugawara no Michizane, making it popular with students seeking success in examinations.

For those wishing to explore further, the region offers several attractions worth visiting.

Kiyama Temple

Located just 660 meters from the shrine, Kiyama Temple represents a fascinating example of shinbutsu-shūgō (Shinto-Buddhist syncretism). Uniquely, this Buddhist temple features a torii gate in front of its main hall, reflecting the historical intertwining of these two religious traditions in Japan.

Hiruzen Highlands

A short drive away, the Hiruzen Highlands offer a refreshing high-altitude retreat. Famous for its Jersey cattle, the area provides opportunities to enjoy fresh dairy products, scenic cycling routes, and the popular local specialty "Hiruzen Yakisoba" (stir-fried noodles with a sweet miso sauce).

Yubara Onsen

One of Japan's top hot spring destinations, Yubara Onsen is renowned for its outdoor "Sunayu" bath, which has been ranked as the "West Yokozuna" (grand champion) in Japan's outdoor bath rankings. The natural hot spring water emerges directly from the riverbed, creating a unique bathing experience.

Q&A

QWhat makes Zenkaku Inari Shrine Main Hall architecturally significant?
AThe shrine was designed by Egawa Saburohachi, a pioneering architect known for blending Japanese and Western techniques. Its distinctive features include double-layered walls, round exterior columns with square interior columns, coffered ceiling, and the signature fukiyose-taruki (grouped rafter) design that characterizes Egawa's work.
QWhen is the best time to visit?
AThe shrine can be visited year-round. Spring offers beautiful cherry blossoms along the approach, while autumn provides stunning foliage. The shrine grounds are particularly peaceful during weekday mornings. Prayer services are available from 9:00 to 11:30 and 13:30 to 15:30, with goshuin (shrine stamps) available until 15:30.
QIs photography permitted?
AExterior photography of the buildings is generally permitted. However, for interior photography or professional shoots, it is recommended to inquire at the shrine office beforehand as a courtesy.
QHow accessible is the shrine for visitors with mobility challenges?
AWhile the shrine grounds include some steps and gravel paths typical of traditional Japanese shrines, the main worship areas are relatively accessible. Parking is available on-site in three locations. Visitors requiring assistance should contact the shrine office in advance to discuss arrangements.
QCan I see other Egawa Saburohachi buildings in the area?
AYes! The Kiyama Shrine worship hall, corridor (watarirōka), and the Zenkaku Inari Shrine worship hall are all Egawa designs and registered cultural properties. Additionally, the former Senkyo Elementary School in Maniwa City is a National Important Cultural Property and excellent example of Egawa's work in educational architecture.

Basic Information

Official Name Zenkaku Inari Shrine Main Hall (善覚稲荷神社本殿)
Location Within Kiyama Shrine, 1265-1 Kiyama, Maniwa City, Okayama Prefecture 719-3142, Japan
Architect Egawa Saburohachi (江川三郎八)
Year Built 1919 (Taisho 8), relocated to current site in 1962
Architectural Style Kirizuma-zukuri (gabled roof), copper plate roofing, hirai-ri entrance
Dimensions Width: 4.0m, Depth: 3.2m
Cultural Property Status Nationally Registered Tangible Cultural Property (Registered: October 27, 2017)
Access 7 minutes by taxi from JR Mimasaka-Ochiai Station; 5 minutes by car from Ochiai IC on Chugoku Expressway
Parking Available (3 parking areas on shrine grounds)
Prayer Service Hours Morning: 9:00-11:30 / Afternoon: 13:30-15:30
Contact Kiyama Shrine: 0867-52-0701

References

善覚稲荷神社本殿 - 文化遺産オンライン
https://bunka.nii.ac.jp/heritages/detail/275292
国指定文化財等データベース(文化庁)
https://kunishitei.bunka.go.jp/heritage/detail/101/00012032
岡山県 登録有形文化財解説資料
https://www.pref.okayama.jp/uploaded/attachment/261028.pdf
木山神社 公式サイト
https://kiyamajinjya.or.jp/
江川三郎八 - Wikipedia
https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/江川三郎八
善覚稲荷神社拝殿 - 文化遺産オンライン
https://bunka.nii.ac.jp/heritages/detail/289893
真庭観光WEB - 木山神社
https://www.maniwa.or.jp/web/?c=spot-2&pk=3062
岡山の江川三郎八建築を巡る|たてものきろく
https://t8mono.net/report/3

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