Uchima Palace

Uchima Udun: A Sacred Hall on the Birthplace of a Ryukyuan King

Tucked away in the quiet village of Kadekaru in Nishihara Town, central Okinawa, Uchima Udun (内間御殿) is one of the most historically significant sacred sites of the former Ryukyu Kingdom. It marks the very ground where Kanamaru — a humble farmer from a remote island who would later become King Sho En, founder of the Second Sho Dynasty — once lived as a regional lord. Today, the site preserves stone walls, foundations, and a quiet shrine grove that together speak of a remarkable rags-to-throne story and the spiritual reverence the kingdom held for its founder.

For travellers seeking an authentic encounter with Okinawan history beyond the usual castle ruins and beaches, Uchima Udun offers a quieter, more contemplative experience — a place where the spiritual landscape of the Ryukyu Kingdom remains tangibly present.

Historical Background: From Farmer to King

To understand Uchima Udun, one must first understand the extraordinary life of its central figure. Kanamaru was born in 1415 on the small island of Izena, north of the Okinawan main island, to a commoner family. According to tradition, conflicts over irrigation water in his home village forced him to flee at the age of 24 with his wife and younger brother. After wandering through northern Okinawa, he eventually arrived in Shuri, the royal capital, where he entered the service of Prince Goeku — the future King Sho Taikyu of the First Sho Dynasty.

Kanamaru's intelligence and diligence soon earned him recognition. In 1454, King Sho Taikyu appointed him as the lord (jito) of Uchima village in the Nishihara district. The land where he built his residence is the very site of present-day Uchima Udun. He served the kingdom faithfully, eventually rising to the position of Omonogusuku Osasu-no-Soba, the high office overseeing foreign trade and Naha port — comparable to a modern minister of foreign affairs.

When King Sho Taikyu died and was succeeded by the young and reportedly tyrannical King Sho Toku, Kanamaru repeatedly remonstrated with the new ruler. Eventually unable to influence him, Kanamaru retreated in 1468 to his beloved Uchima estate in quiet retirement. The following year, after Sho Toku's sudden death, the court ministers staged a coup and unanimously invited Kanamaru to take the throne. Reluctantly accepting, he was enthroned as King Sho En in 1469, founding the Second Sho Dynasty that would rule the Ryukyu Kingdom for the next 410 years until its dissolution in 1879.

The Founding of the Sacred Hall

King Sho En reigned for only seven years before passing away in 1476. Yet the memory of his humble origins and his connection to Uchima village persisted in the consciousness of the kingdom. Approximately 190 years after his death, in 1666, the regent Haneji Choshu (also known as Sho Sho-ken) advised the reigning King Sho Shitsu to formally consecrate Sho En's former residence as a sacred site of the kingdom.

That year, a modest thatched shrine of two by three ken (roughly 3.6 by 5.4 metres) — later named Agarie Udun (East Hall) — was erected on the site. A celadon pillow was enshrined within as the sacred object of worship, said to have been used by Sho En himself.

In 1689, the kingdom's bureau of ritual affairs, the Omi Udun, rebuilt the deteriorating hall with a tiled roof using kashi (Japanese chinquapin oak) timber, marking its formal recognition as a state-level sacred place. In 1706, residents of the Nishihara district built a second hall on the northern side called Iriere Udun (West Hall), which was likewise upgraded to tile roofing in 1737.

A pivotal moment came in 1735, when a thief broke into the East Hall and stole the sacred celadon pillow. King Sho Kei himself led his retainers in the search and reportedly recovered it from a rice paddy. In response, the surrounding bamboo fence was replaced with proper stone walls in 1736, complete with a main gate (with a tiled roof) and a smaller side gate. In 1738, King Sho Kei personally inscribed a plaque reading "Chiwa" (致和, meaning "achieving harmony"), which was hung above the main gate, and erected a stone monument titled the "Stele of the Former King's Old Residence" in the inner courtyard. Through these efforts, Uchima Udun became firmly established as a national sacred place in the early modern Ryukyu period.

Why Uchima Udun Is Designated a National Historic Site

On 7 February 2011, the Japanese government designated Uchima Udun as a National Historic Site, citing it as "an extremely important site for understanding the actual conditions of ritual and faith in Okinawa." The designated area encompasses 5,161.88 square metres.

The significance of the site rests on several interrelated points. First, it preserves the only known sacred space in Okinawa that was systematically developed by the royal government to honour the residence of a dynastic founder — a unique example of state-led veneration in the Ryukyu Kingdom. Second, although both shrine halls were destroyed during the Battle of Okinawa in 1945, the surrounding stone walls (ishigaki), the building platforms, and the stone base of the Stele of the Former King's Old Residence have survived in remarkably good condition, providing direct material evidence of late-period Ryukyuan sacred architecture. Third, the site continues to function as an active place of worship for the descendants of related lineage groups, demonstrating the living continuity of Okinawan ritual practices that extend back several centuries.

For scholars of religion, architecture, and political history, Uchima Udun represents a rare convergence of these disciplines, all rooted in a single quiet plot of land in central Okinawa.

Highlights and What to See

Visitors arriving at Uchima Udun will first notice the magnificent sawafuji tree (also called sawafuji or simply by its Latin name Mucuna macrocarpa) standing near the entrance. The tree is a designated natural monument of Nishihara Town and produces stunning purple-red flower clusters in summer. It has become so iconic that it is the symbol tree of Nishihara Town itself.

Beyond the entrance, the most striking feature is the well-preserved stone wall enclosure built in 1736. Constructed in the traditional Ryukyuan ishigaki style, the walls give a clear sense of the original sacred precinct's layout. Inside, the foundations of the East and West Halls remain visible, along with the stone pedestal that once held the Stele of the Former King's Old Residence.

The current shrine buildings — modest reconstructions in concrete block and tin from the post-war era — stand on the original platforms. While simple in appearance, they continue to serve as places of active worship and offer a striking contrast between the original stonework and the resilient spirit of post-war reconstruction.

Just opposite the site lies a seasonal cosmos flower field that bursts into bloom each January, attracting both photographers and casual visitors. Combined with the spring greenery and summer sawafuji blossoms, the surrounding landscape changes character throughout the year.

Visitor Information and Access

Uchima Udun is open as a free public historic site with no admission fee. There is no dedicated parking lot, so visitors are strongly encouraged to use public transport. From Naha Bus Terminal, take Naha Bus route number 30 (Awase Higashi Line) and alight at the "Uchima" bus stop. From there, the site is approximately a 5-minute walk.

Because the site is a working sacred place, visitors are asked to behave respectfully — speak quietly, do not touch ritual implements, and do not enter areas marked off for ceremonies. Photography of the buildings and stone walls is generally welcomed, but please refrain from photographing any private worship in progress.

The best seasons to visit are summer (June to August), when the sawafuji blossoms peak, and mid-winter (January), when the cosmos fields opposite the site come into full bloom. Early morning or late afternoon visits offer the most atmospheric experience.

Around Uchima Udun

Nishihara Town and the surrounding central Okinawa region offer a wealth of cultural attractions that pair well with a visit to Uchima Udun. Nishihara Sawafuji Marche, the town's modern landmark complex, opened in December 2020 and offers fresh local produce at the JA Farmers' Market "Untama Ichiba", a kitchen studio for cooking classes, and the small "Nishihara Theatre" exhibition space introducing local history. It makes an ideal lunch or souvenir stop.

For those wishing to deepen their understanding of the Ryukyu Kingdom and the legacy of King Sho En, Shuri Castle Park in Naha (about 25 minutes by car) offers the political heart of the kingdom that Sho En founded. The Tamaudun Mausoleum, a UNESCO World Heritage Site near Shuri Castle, is the royal tomb where King Sho En and his descendants are interred. Visiting both sites in sequence creates a powerful narrative arc — from a regional lord's residence to the dynastic seat of power and the final resting place of kings.

Adventurous travellers may also consider visiting Izena Island, Sho En's birthplace, by ferry from northern Okinawa. The island preserves several sites associated with his early life and offers a glimpse of the rural setting from which one of Ryukyu's most consequential figures emerged.