Komatsuyasuke & Kanazawa National Treasures: 2-Hour Cultural Route

Introduction

Want high-end sushi and cultural heritage in Kanazawa, efficiently? I've mapped a practical route from a student blogger's perspective—covering reservation hurdles, access, timing, and honest budget talk.

The Real Deal with Komatsuyasuke

Legend Kazuo Morita Today

Born in Kobe in 1931, now 93 years old. Started at 15, sushi for life. The late master of Ginza's "Kyubei" once called him "Japan's best sushi chef." Closed in 2015, reopened in 2017 on the first floor of Kanazawa Chaya Annex near Kanazawa Station.

The key point: he still grips sushi. However, he may be absent depending on his condition. If you want to meet him for sure, aim for the first seating at 11:00. From the second seating onward, it's often led by younger chefs.

The Reservation Reality

This is the biggest barrier. Referral-only system—you must be accompanied by someone who has visited Komatsuyasuke before. First-timers cannot enter alone. This reflects Morita's wish to "cherish longtime customers."

Reservations are phone-only. On the 1st of each month, they open seats three months ahead. If the 1st falls on Wed/Thu (closed days), it's the next business day. It used to be an in-person queue, but now it's switched to phone.

Hours and Pricing

Hours: 11:00, 13:00, 15:00 (three seatings, lunch only)
Closed: Wednesday, Thursday
Omakase course: ¥20,000–30,000
Duration: ~90 minutes

Location: 3-minute walk from Kanazawa Station, 1F of Kanazawa Chaya Annex (a ryokan). Parking available, valet service too. Arrive before your reservation time and wait in the lobby.

Must-Try Pieces

Legendary Squid Sliced paper-thin from a few millimeters thick, curled with the blade tip. Cutting it fine makes it sweet and velvety. Receiving this on your palm is the highlight of the "Yasuke Theater."

Tilefish with Kombu Kombu isn't applied directly—wrapped in paper towel first, then rolled. Torched for aroma. Morita says, "Just a gentle kombu fragrance." Preparation methods still evolving.

Seasonal Kōbako-gani (Box Crab) November 7–December 29 only. Inner roe, outer roe, and leg meat arranged in the shell. Considering the labor to extract it, this price is a steal.

Post-Meal 2-Hour National Treasure Route

After Komatsuyasuke, use local buses and walking to hit cultural sites efficiently. Total 2 hours, transport under ¥500.

Ishikawa Prefectural Museum of Art (15 min from Komatsuyasuke)

Bus: Kanazawa Station East Exit #7 → "Hirosaka/21st Century Museum" → Dewamachi stop, 5 min Admission: ¥370 permanent collection

National Treasure: Colored Pheasant Incense Burner (by Nonomura Ninsei) Permanently displayed in Gallery 1. Masterpiece of early Edo Kyoyaki pottery. Life-size male pheasant in vivid colors and gold, with the tail held horizontally during firing—an extremely difficult technique.

National Treasure: Sword Signed Yoshimitsu (on loan from Hakusan Hime Shrine) Work by the famous Kamakura swordsmith Tōshirō Yoshimitsu. Brought by a Tokugawa foster daughter who married into the Kaga domain, later dedicated to Hakusan Hime Shrine. Check exhibition schedule.

The paired "Colored Female Pheasant Incense Burner" (Important Cultural Property) is also displayed in the same case. Seeing the reunited pair after ~300 years apart is worth it.

Seisonkaku (3 min walk from museum)

Late-Edo daimyo residence. Built by the 13th lord Maeda Nariyasu for his mother's retirement. Important Cultural Property. Garden also designated a Place of Scenic Beauty. Admission ¥700.

Kenrokuen (3 min walk from Seisonkaku)

Special Place of Scenic Beauty. One of Japan's Three Great Gardens. Admission ¥320. The Kotoji Lantern by the pond is the classic photo spot. 30 minutes covers the main areas.

Kanazawa Castle Park (10 min walk from Kenrokuen)

Enter through Ishikawa Gate (Important Cultural Property). Beautiful white walls and lead tiles. Also see Sanjikken Nagaya (Important Cultural Property) and Tsurumaru Storehouse (Important Cultural Property). Free entry; paid areas ¥320.

Ozaki Shrine (10 min walk from castle)

Built in 1643 by the 4th lord Maeda Mitsutaka to enshrine Tokugawa Ieyasu. Called "Kanazawa's Toshogu" or "Hokuriku's Nikko." The vermilion main hall, worship hall, inner gate, and transparent fence are Important Cultural Properties. Free.

Located in a city alley, it's a shortcut to Omicho Market. Surprisingly few tourists—a quiet spot for worship.

Oyama Shrine (8 min walk from Ozaki Shrine)

Shrine dedicated to Maeda Toshiie. The Shinmon Gate (Important Cultural Property) is a unique blend of Japanese, Chinese, and Western styles, with stained glass on the top floor. The lightning rod on the roof is said to be the oldest surviving one. Free.

Practical Timetable

11:00–12:30 Komatsuyasuke (1st seating) 12:40–13:00 Walk to Kanazawa Station → Bus to museum 13:00–13:40 Ishikawa Prefectural Museum of Art 13:45–14:15 Seisonkaku 14:20–14:50 Kenrokuen 15:00–15:30 Kanazawa Castle 15:40–15:50 Ozaki Shrine 16:00–16:10 Oyama Shrine

Total: 5 hours 10 minutes Meal + Cultural Sites: Efficiently covers Kanazawa's highlights

Budget and Plan B

Budget Breakdown

Komatsuyasuke: ¥20,000–30,000
Museum: ¥370
Seisonkaku: ¥700
Kenrokuen: ¥320
Kanazawa Castle paid area: ¥320
Bus: ¥200 × 2 Total: ~¥25,000–35,000

If Komatsuyasuke Is Out of Reach

Sushi alternatives near Kanazawa Station, doable in 90–120 minutes:

Ikiiki-tei at Omicho Market Tourist-oriented, but local fish freshness is real. Conveyor belt style, ¥3,000–5,000. English menu available.

Kanazawa Maimon Sushi Local chain. Rich in Hokuriku items like nodoguro, shiro-ebi. No reservation needed, ¥2,000–4,000.

Tips and Cautions

Komatsuyasuke-related

To meet Morita, 1st seating is essential
3 seatings, but delays are normal
Table and counter seats available; counter is better
Camera OK. Photo call: "Hai, Yasuke!"
May be cash-only (confirm in advance)

Cultural Sites

Museum's National Treasure "Sword" has rotation; check beforehand
Kenrokuen/Kanazawa Castle have early-morning free entry (seasonal)
Ozaki Shrine is normally free, but the interior is not open
March can be muddy from snowmelt; wear good walking shoes

Transportation

Kanazawa Station → cultural area is convenient by local bus
"Kanazawa Loop Bus" 1-day pass ¥600 is another option
Rental bikes struggle with hills around Kenrokuen

Summary

Komatsuyasuke—once you clear the "reservation wall," you can experience the miracle of a 93-year-old legend still gripping sushi. The referral system is debatable, but it reflects Morita's philosophy of "cherishing longtime customers."

The post-meal cultural route hits 2 National Treasures, 5+ Important Cultural Property buildings, and 1 Special Place of Scenic Beauty in 2 hours—a super-efficient route. It's more than enough to feel Kanazawa's "prestige."

The budget is steep, but you're touching the pinnacle of Japanese sushi culture and samurai culture. Tough for students, but worth considering as a once-in-a-lifetime "treat yourself" trip.

FAQ

Q1: Is it really that hard to reserve Komatsuyasuke?

Due to the referral system, you must be accompanied by someone who has visited before. First-timers cannot reserve alone. On the 1st of each month, they accept phone reservations for seats three months ahead, but regulars often fill them. If you know a past visitor, asking them to accompany you is the only way.

Q2: How can I ensure I meet Kazuo Morita?

I recommend booking the 11:00 first seating. At 93, he may be absent depending on his condition. The 13:00 and 15:00 seatings are often led by younger chefs. Even the first seating isn't guaranteed. You might ask when reserving if Morita will be gripping that day, but his condition may not be known until the day itself.

Q3: Are there only two National Treasures in Kanazawa?

There are others in Ishikawa Prefecture, but the two permanently displayed in Kanazawa city are the "Colored Pheasant Incense Burner" and "Sword Signed Yoshimitsu" (on loan) at the Ishikawa Prefectural Museum of Art. The sword has rotation, so check the official site before visiting. There are also National Treasures displayed periodically, such as the Maeda Ikutokukai's "Nihon Shoki."

Q4: How much time do you need for the cultural sites?

If you want to see each thoroughly, half a day is ideal. But hitting the main points efficiently takes 2–2.5 hours: museum 40 min, Seisonkaku 30 min, Kenrokuen 30 min, castle 30 min, Ozaki/Oyama 10 min each, plus travel time—about 2.5 hours total. Allow 3 hours if you want photos and breaks.

Q5: Are there other good sushi places in Kanazawa besides Komatsuyasuke?

Options vary by budget and reservation difficulty. High-end: "Sushi Mitsukawa" (reservation required). Casual: "Kanazawa Maimon Sushi" (no reservation, ¥2,000–4,000). Tourist-friendly: "Ikiiki-tei" at Omicho Market. "Komatsuyasuke" is in a league of its own, but Kanazawa has many quality spots leveraging local fish freshness. Choose based on budget and companions.