Aofushigaki Shinji: A Living Window into Ancient Japanese Mythology

On a quiet harbor at the eastern tip of the Shimane Peninsula, one of Japan's most mysterious and sacred rituals unfolds each spring. The Aofushigaki Shinji, or "Blue Brushwood Fence Ritual," is a ceremonial reenactment of a pivotal moment in Japanese mythology—when the deity Ebisu chose to disappear from the mortal world by hiding behind a mystical fence in the sea.

Unlike the famous festivals that draw massive crowds to major cities, Aofushigaki Shinji remains relatively unknown to international visitors. Yet this ancient ritual, held at Miho Shrine on April 7th each year, offers an extraordinarily rare glimpse into the spiritual heart of Japan—where myth becomes reality and ordinary people transform into living deities through sacred rituals passed down for over a millennium.

The Mythological Origins: The Tale of Kuniyuzuri

The Aofushigaki Shinji finds its origins in the Kuniyuzuri myth, one of the foundational stories recorded in the Kojiki, Japan's oldest surviving chronicle from 712 CE. According to this legend, the Sun Goddess Amaterasu sent divine messengers to the land of Izumo to negotiate its transfer from the earthly deities to the heavenly gods.

Ōkuninushi, the great deity of Izumo, consulted his son Kotoshironushi-no-mikoto, who was fishing at Cape Miho when the messengers arrived. After agreeing to surrender the land, Kotoshironushi performed a mystical gesture called "amanosakaude" (reverse hand clap) and transformed his boat into a sacred enclosure of blue-green brushwood (aofushigaki). He then disappeared into the sea, effectively hiding himself from the world of the living.

This moment of divine concealment—often interpreted as a symbolic death and rebirth—forms the spiritual foundation of the Aofushigaki Shinji. Each year, the ritual reenacts this mythological event, renewing the divine spirit and bringing blessings of abundant harvests and prosperity to the community.

Why This Ritual Matters: Cultural Heritage Significance

In 1973, the Japanese government designated Aofushigaki Shinji as a cultural property requiring documentation and preservation measures, recognizing its exceptional value as a living example of ancient Japanese religious practice. The ritual stands out for several remarkable reasons.

First, it preserves an extraordinarily detailed connection to specific mythological narratives from the Kojiki, allowing participants and observers to witness mythology come alive. Second, the ritual maintains elaborate preparation protocols, including a full year of purification practices by the main participants, which have been passed down virtually unchanged for centuries.

Most remarkably, Aofushigaki Shinji features the practice of "kamigakari"—divine possession—where designated individuals enter a trance-like state through fasting and seclusion, becoming living vessels for the deity during the ceremony. This aspect of the ritual provides invaluable insight into ancient Japanese spiritual practices that have largely disappeared elsewhere.

The Ritual Unfolds: A Ten-Day Sacred Journey

The Aofushigaki Shinji is not a single-day event but rather an elaborate ceremonial sequence spanning approximately ten days, beginning on March 31st and culminating on April 7th.

The ritual centers on the "Tōya"—married couples selected from specific family lineages through sacred divination. These individuals undertake an extraordinary year-long preparation involving daily midnight purification in the sea (shiokaki), strict dietary restrictions, and complete avoidance of any spiritual contamination. The Tōya must avoid encountering others during their nighttime pilgrimages; if they do, they must restart the entire purification process.

On the morning of April 7th, the ceremony reaches its climax. The Tōya couples, having entered a state of divine possession through fasting and isolation in a darkened room, are dressed in ceremonial attire—the men in white with black headgear, the women in red kimonos with special face coverings. They board two sacred boats decorated with brushwood fences at the four corners, topped with sakaki (sacred evergreen) branches.

As the boats process around the harbor accompanied by fishing vessels flying colorful flags, Shinto music fills the air. Upon returning to shore, the divine couples proceed to Miho Shrine's worship hall, where the central act of "hōhei"—the offering of sacred staffs—takes place, symbolizing the renewal of the deity's spiritual power.

Miho Shrine: The Grand Ebisu Sanctuary

Miho Shrine, where the Aofushigaki Shinji takes place, holds an important position in Japanese religious landscape as the head shrine of more than 3,000 Ebisu shrines throughout the country. The shrine is dedicated to Kotoshironushi-no-mikoto (Ebisu), the deity of fishing, commerce, and prosperity, as well as Mihotsuhime-no-mikoto, goddess of agriculture.

The shrine's architecture itself is remarkable. The main hall, designated as a national Important Cultural Property, features the unique "Miho-zukuri" or "Hiyoku-taisha-zukuri" style—two separate buildings connected by a shared structure, appearing like two birds spreading their wings side by side. The current buildings were reconstructed in 1813, maintaining architectural traditions stretching back centuries.

Visitors can participate in the popular "Ebisu-Daikoku Ryōmairi" pilgrimage, visiting both Miho Shrine and Izumo Taisha Grand Shrine (dedicated to Ebisu's father, Ōkuninushi/Daikoku) for enhanced blessings in relationships and fortune.

Experiencing Mihonoseki: A Nostalgic Harbor Town

The port town of Mihonoseki, where Miho Shrine is located, offers visitors a wonderfully atmospheric setting that feels frozen in time. During the Edo period, this small harbor flourished as a major stopping point for Kitamae-bune trading ships carrying goods between Osaka and Japan's northern regions.

The Aoishidatami-dōri (Blue Stone-Paved Street) connects Miho Shrine to Bukkokuji Temple, its stones turning a beautiful blue color when wet with rain. Walking along this historic path, you'll pass traditional wooden buildings with latticed windows and discover a soy sauce shop that has operated for generations.

The nostalgic harbor atmosphere was famously captured by Lafcadio Hearn (Koizumi Yakumo), the Irish-Japanese writer who described Mihonoseki in the late 19th century as a lively haven filled with the sounds of geisha music and the festivities of sailors from around Japan.

Nearby Attractions

The Shimane Peninsula's eastern tip offers numerous other destinations worth exploring during your visit.

Mihonoseki Lighthouse, perched dramatically on Cape Jizō, is the oldest lighthouse in the San'in region, built in 1898. Recognized among the "100 Historic Lighthouses of the World" and designated as a national Important Cultural Property, it offers spectacular views across the Sea of Japan to the distant Oki Islands. The adjacent café, housed in the former lighthouse keeper's quarters, serves meals with panoramic ocean views.

Bukkokuji Temple, just a short walk from Miho Shrine, houses five Important Cultural Property Buddhist statues, considered the oldest Buddhist images in the San'in region. The temple is also historically significant as a resting place for exiled emperors Go-Toba and Go-Daigo during their journeys to the Oki Islands.

A short drive away, visitors can explore Sakaiminato's famous Mizuki Shigeru Road, lined with bronze statues of yokai (supernatural creatures) created by the beloved manga artist. The adjacent Mizuki Shigeru Memorial Museum celebrates his life and artistic legacy.

Planning Your Visit

While Mihonoseki can be visited year-round to experience Miho Shrine and the charming harbor town, those wishing to witness the Aofushigaki Shinji should plan their visit around April 7th. The ritual activities can be observed from designated public areas along the harbor.

Visitors should approach the ceremony with respect, understanding that this is an active religious practice, not a performance for tourists. Photography may be restricted during certain portions of the ritual, and quiet observation is expected.

The combination of ancient ritual, stunning coastal scenery, and authentic traditional townscape makes Mihonoseki an ideal destination for travelers seeking to experience Japan beyond the tourist mainstream—a place where the boundaries between myth and reality, past and present, seem to dissolve in the salt air of the Sea of Japan.