Matsue Castle: The Black Jewel of San'in

Rising majestically above the shores of Lake Shinji, Matsue Castle stands as one of Japan's most authentic and well-preserved samurai fortresses. Known as the "Black Castle" for its distinctive dark wooden exterior, this architectural masterpiece has watched over the castle town of Matsue for over 400 years, surviving wars, natural disasters, and the modernization that claimed so many of Japan's historic castles.

In 2015, Matsue Castle was designated as a National Treasure, joining an exclusive group of only five castles in Japan to receive this highest honor. What makes this castle truly special is not just its impressive architecture, but the complete castle town experience that surrounds it – from scenic boat tours through Edo-period canals to perfectly preserved samurai residences.

A Living Testament to Samurai Architecture

Matsue Castle is one of only 12 original castle towers (tenshu) remaining in Japan – structures that have survived since the Edo period or earlier without being reconstructed. Among these rare survivors, Matsue Castle holds the distinction of being the second-largest in floor area (after Himeji Castle) and the third-tallest at 30 meters including its stone base.

The castle's construction began in 1607 under the direction of Horio Yoshiharu, a master castle builder who had served both Toyotomi Hideyoshi and Tokugawa Ieyasu. Completed in 1611, the castle represents the pinnacle of early Edo period military architecture, built during Japan's last great age of castle construction.

The tower's unique "watchtower style" (borogata) design features a large lower structure topped with a smaller observation deck, creating its distinctive silhouette. This architectural style predates the more common "layered tower style" seen in later castles, making Matsue Castle a precious example of early Japanese castle design evolution.

Why Matsue Castle Earned National Treasure Status

The journey to National Treasure designation was not straightforward. Originally designated as a National Treasure in 1935, Matsue Castle lost this status in 1950 when Japan reformed its cultural property laws and the criteria became more stringent. For 65 years, the castle was classified as an Important Cultural Property while the city and its citizens campaigned for its reinstatement.

The breakthrough came in 2012 when two prayer plaques (kito-fuda) were discovered at nearby Matsue Shrine. These wooden plaques, bearing the date "1611," provided the crucial documentary evidence needed to verify the castle's exact construction date. After extensive research confirming these plaques matched nail holes in the castle's basement pillars, Matsue Castle was re-designated as a National Treasure in 2015.

The castle's architectural significance extends beyond its age. Its innovative structural system, using shorter interconnected pillars rather than single massive columns, influenced castle construction throughout Japan. The well-preserved defensive features, including gun ports, stone-dropping windows, and the only basement well among Japan's existing castle towers, showcase the military engineering expertise of the era.

Architectural Marvels and Hidden Features

Step inside the castle, and you'll discover a fortress designed for survival. The steep, narrow staircases – made from lightweight paulownia wood that could be quickly removed to prevent enemy advance – lead visitors through six floors of defensive innovations. The castle's 308 supporting pillars employ an ingenious reinforcement technique called "wrapping boards" (tsutsumi-ita), where additional wooden planks strengthen the columns.

At the castle's apex sits a pair of wooden shachihoko (mythical fish-tiger creatures) covered in copper plates. At 2.08 meters tall, the larger of the pair holds the record as Japan's largest surviving wooden shachihoko, believed to protect the castle from fire with their mythical water-spouting abilities.

The top floor, known as the "Tengu Room," offers something unique among Japanese castles – completely open sides with no walls, providing 360-degree panoramic views. On clear days, visitors can see Lake Shinji stretching to the horizon, the Chugoku Mountains, and the entire layout of the historic castle town below.

The Complete Castle Town Experience

Horikawa Sightseeing Boat Tour

One of Matsue's most enchanting experiences is the Horikawa Meguri boat tour, which takes visitors on a 50-minute journey through the castle's original moat system. These small, traditional boats navigate 3.7 kilometers of waterways, passing under 17 bridges – some so low that the boat's roof must be lowered and passengers must duck down.

The boat captains, known for their entertaining commentary and occasional singing, share stories about the castle and point out hidden details along the route. From November to April, the boats are equipped with traditional kotatsu heated tables, creating a cozy winter experience unique in Japan.

Shiomi Nawate Street

Along the northern moat lies Shiomi Nawate, one of Japan's best-preserved samurai districts. This 500-meter stretch maintains its Edo period atmosphere with traditional samurai residences, white-walled storehouses, and ancient pine trees lining the canal. The street was selected as one of Japan's "100 Most Beautiful Streets" and offers visitors a genuine glimpse into samurai life.

The Buke Yashiki (Samurai Residence), preserved exactly as it was 280 years ago, is open to the public and showcases the lifestyle of middle-ranking samurai families. The street is also home to the former residence of Lafcadio Hearn (Koizumi Yakumo), the renowned writer who introduced Japanese ghost stories to the Western world.

Seasonal Celebrations and Events

Spring transforms the castle grounds into one of Japan's top 100 cherry blossom viewing spots, with over 200 sakura trees creating a pink canopy around the black castle walls. The annual Matsue Castle Festival during this season features traditional performances, tea ceremonies, and special night illuminations.

Summer brings the Suigosai Festival, one of western Japan's largest firework displays over Lake Shinji, visible from the castle grounds. Autumn paints the castle park in brilliant reds and golds, while winter offers the unique experience of the castle dusted with snow – a rare sight in this region.

Throughout the year, the castle hosts special events including samurai demonstrations, traditional craft workshops, and the atmospheric Matsue Water Lantern Festival, when thousands of lights illuminate the castle and surrounding moats.

Exploring the Surrounding Area

Matsue History Museum

Located adjacent to the castle, this museum showcases the prayer plaques that secured the castle's National Treasure status, along with exhibits detailing castle town life, traditional crafts, and the culture of the Matsue domain. The museum includes a beautiful Japanese garden and a reconstructed Edo period teahouse.

Matsue Vogel Park

A 15-minute drive from the castle, this all-weather botanical garden features thousands of flowers and exotic birds in massive greenhouses. The bird shows and penguin walks are particularly popular with families.

Lake Shinji Sunset Spots

Matsue is famous for having one of Japan's most beautiful sunset views over Lake Shinji. The best viewing spots are along the lakeside promenade, just a short walk from the castle. The lake is also known for the "Shinji Seven" – seven local delicacies including corbiculae clams and sea bass.