Fujitaya Ryokan Main Building

Fujitaya Ryokan Main Building: A Taisho-Era Gem in the Heart of Yugawara Onsen

Nestled along the banks of the Fujiki River in the storied hot spring town of Yugawara, the main building of Fujitaya Ryokan stands as an enduring testament to the elegance and craftsmanship of early 20th-century Japanese inn architecture. Founded in 1882 during the Meiji era, Fujitaya is one of the oldest continuously operating ryokan in the Yugawara hot spring district. Its main building, a magnificent two-story wooden structure originally constructed in 1923 and expanded in 1929, was officially registered as a National Registered Tangible Cultural Property in December 2014, securing its place among Japan's most treasured architectural heritage sites.

Yugawara Onsen itself boasts a history that stretches back over a millennium. It is the only hot spring to be celebrated in the Man'yōshū, Japan's oldest surviving anthology of poetry compiled in the 8th century. To stay at Fujitaya's main building is to inhabit a living piece of this storied tradition — to sleep within walls adorned with masterful kumiko latticework and sukashi-bori openwork carvings, to gaze through elegantly crafted shoji screens at the gentle flow of the river below, and to soak in mineral-rich waters drawn directly from the inn's own private source.

Historical Background

According to the "Ryokan Yōroku" (a directory of inns) published in 1911, Fujitaya Ryokan was established in 1882 (Meiji 15), making it one of the earliest registered lodging establishments in the Yugawara hot spring district. The inn was founded during a period of rapid modernization in Japan, yet its architecture reflects a deep commitment to traditional Japanese building arts that would become increasingly rare in the decades that followed.

The main building as it stands today was constructed in 1923 (Taisho 12), the final year of the Taisho era and, notably, the same year as the Great Kanto Earthquake. The building was subsequently expanded in 1929 (Showa 4) with an additional wing, and underwent further renovations in 1951 (Showa 26). Despite these modifications over the decades, the structure has retained its essential character as a Taisho-period ryokan of exceptional quality.

Yugawara itself has long been a favored retreat for Japan's literary and artistic elite. The neighboring Itōya ryokan, also a registered cultural property, famously served as the setting for events connected to the February 26 Incident of 1936. The concentration of historic ryokan along the Fujiki River forms a remarkable cultural landscape that speaks to the enduring appeal of Yugawara as a place of rest, creativity, and healing.

Why It Was Designated: Architectural and Cultural Significance

The main building of Fujitaya Ryokan was registered as a National Registered Tangible Cultural Property (Building) on December 19, 2014, in recognition of its outstanding architectural merit and its role in shaping the historic townscape of Yugawara's hot spring district.

The building comprises two main wings — an east wing and a west wing — arranged in a staggered, zigzag formation known as gankō (literally "flying geese"), a traditional configuration that maximizes river views while creating visual dynamism. At the center of the composition stands an imposing entrance hall topped with an irimoya-zukuri (hip-and-gable) roof, lending the facade an air of dignified welcome.

Guest rooms, primarily eight-tatami-mat spaces, are aligned along the riverside and fitted with kōran (ornamental balustrades) that frame views of the Fujiki River. Inside, the rooms showcase remarkably fine craftsmanship: tokonoma alcoves and ranma transoms are decorated with delicate kumiko (geometric wooden latticework) and sukashi-bori (openwork carving) of exceptional refinement. The east wing entrance features a variety of sukiya-style (tea-ceremony-influenced) small eaves and canopies, adding layers of aesthetic interest to the building's exterior.

The designation recognizes the building as an exemplary piece of ryokan architecture that evokes the atmosphere and romance of Japan's historic hot spring towns — a quality described in the official registration as "onsen-gai no ryojō wo kamosu ryokan kenchiku" (inn architecture that creates the poetic mood of a hot spring town).

Architectural Highlights and Visitor Experience

Stepping through the entrance of Fujitaya's main building is like crossing a threshold into another era. The ground floor entrance area and the second-floor guest rooms of the main building — both dating to the Taisho and early Showa periods — are the portions specifically recognized as cultural properties. Every surface reveals the meticulous attention to detail that characterized the finest ryokan construction of this period.

The ceiling treatments and shoji screen latticework throughout the building display an extraordinary variety of kumiko patterns, each executed with a precision that reflects the highest level of traditional woodworking skill. The ranma transoms above doorways feature intricate openwork carvings that filter light and air while serving as focal points of artistic expression. These decorative elements are not merely ornamental — they represent a complete aesthetic philosophy in which structure, function, and beauty are inseparable.

The bathing facilities are a highlight of any stay. The inn possesses its own private hot spring source located directly across from the building, ensuring an abundant supply of fresh, mineral-rich water. The main communal bath, named "Bō no Yu" (Bath of Gazing), features a dramatic ceiling of unfinished hinoki cypress logs arranged in a full-round framework, creating a sense of spacious grandeur. The bath floor is paved with five-colored stones that provide a gentle foot massage as you walk. A chrysanthemum-motif basin serves as the source point from which the generous flow of hot spring water cascades into the pool.

Additional bathing options include the "Sōgyoku no Yu" outdoor bath with jet features, added in 1999, as well as two private baths — "Hinoki no Yu" (Cypress Bath) and "Fuji no Yu" (Wisteria Bath). The clever rotation system alternates the men's and women's baths between dinner and the following morning, allowing all guests to experience every bathing space during a single overnight stay.

Dining at Fujitaya is equally memorable. Meals are served in the privacy of guest rooms or in a dedicated private dining space, featuring kaiseki-style courses that showcase the fresh bounty of Sagami Bay and the surrounding mountains. Local seafood, seasonal vegetables, and carefully prepared dishes reflect the culinary traditions of the Sagami region.

Visitor Information and Access

Fujitaya Ryokan continues to operate as an active lodging establishment, meaning visitors can experience this registered cultural property firsthand by booking a stay. The inn offers both main building (honkan) rooms, which provide the full cultural property experience within the historic Taisho-era structure, and newer annex (shinkan) rooms for those who prefer more modern amenities. The main building has 9 rooms and the annex has 7 rooms, for a total of 16 guest rooms — an intimate scale that ensures personal attention.

Access to Fujitaya is straightforward. From JR Yugawara Station on the Tokaido Main Line, take the Hakone Tozan Bus bound for Oku-Yugawara or Fudō-taki (approximately 15 minutes) and alight at the Kōen-iriguchi stop. By taxi from the station, the journey takes approximately 7 minutes. For those traveling by car, the inn is approximately 30 minutes from Odawara via the Manazuru Road, or about 1 hour and 50 minutes from the Atsugi Interchange on the Tomei Expressway.

Yugawara is also included in the town's "Historical Ryokan Tour" program, which offers guided visits and bathing experiences at several of the district's registered cultural property inns. This provides an excellent opportunity for day visitors to appreciate the architectural heritage of the area even without an overnight stay.

Surrounding Attractions

Fujitaya's location in the heart of Yugawara's hot spring district places it within easy reach of numerous attractions. Manyo Park, the town's signature green space, lies a short walk away along the Chitose River. Completely renovated in 2021, the park now houses "Yugawara Sōyu Books and Retreat," a day-use hot spring facility with open-air baths fed by natural hot spring water, a café, and reading terraces set among the trees. The park also contains a monument to the famous Man'yōshū poem about Yugawara's hot springs, as well as the Kumano Shrine, where the temizu (hand-washing basin) remarkably flows with actual hot spring water.

A short bus ride upstream brings visitors to Fudō-taki (Fudō Falls), a 15-meter waterfall flanked by statues of Fudō Myōō and Daikoku-son. A teahouse at the base offers refreshments and a foot bath fed by the local hot spring. The surrounding forests are especially beautiful during the autumn foliage season.

In early spring, the Yugawara Plum Grove on the slopes of Mount Maku comes alive with approximately 4,000 red and white plum trees, creating a spectacular carpet of blossoms that draws visitors from across the region. The annual "Ume no Utage" (Plum Festival) runs from early February through early March and includes evening illumination events.

Other notable nearby destinations include the Yugawara Museum of Art, the Nishimura Kyōtarō Memorial Museum dedicated to the beloved mystery novelist, and the Jinken Kokuho Museum (Museum of Living National Treasures). The neighboring hot spring town of Atami and the Hakone area are also within easy day-trip distance, offering additional cultural and natural attractions.