Ink Painting on Silk Depicting the Flow of Life (by Yokoyama

Metempsychosis by Yokoyama Taikan: A 40-Meter Journey Through the Life of Water

Imagine standing before a single painting that stretches over 40 meters — longer than an Olympic swimming pool — and tells the story of a single drop of water from its birth as mountain mist to its transformation into a dragon ascending to the heavens. This is Metempsychosis (生々流転, Seisei Ruten), a monumental ink scroll by Yokoyama Taikan (1868–1958), one of the most important works of modern Japanese painting. Housed at the National Museum of Modern Art, Tokyo (MOMAT), this designated Important Cultural Property invites visitors to experience the grandeur and philosophical depth of Japanese ink painting on an extraordinary scale.

What Is Metempsychosis?

Completed in 1923, Metempsychosis is a handscroll (emakimono) painted in sumi ink on silk. The scroll measures 55.3 cm in height and an astounding 4,070 cm (approximately 40 meters) in length. It was first exhibited at the 10th Inten (Reorganized Japan Art Institute Exhibition) on September 1, 1923 — the very day the Great Kanto Earthquake struck Tokyo. Just hours after the exhibition opened, the devastating earthquake forced its closure, and Taikan himself reportedly rushed to retrieve the precious scroll from the damaged venue.

The title Seisei Ruten, often translated as "Metempsychosis" or "The Wheel of Life," refers to the Buddhist concept that all things in the universe are in a state of perpetual change and rebirth. In choosing this theme, Taikan expressed his profound view of nature and existence — that nothing is fixed, and all forms are transient manifestations of an underlying, eternal flow.

The Story Told Across 40 Meters

Unrolling from right to left in the traditional manner of Japanese handscrolls, the painting begins in a mountain landscape shrouded in mist. Moisture clings to leaves among pine trees — symbols of longevity — and cherry blossoms, representing the fleeting beauty of life. A single drop of water forms and begins its journey downward.

The droplet becomes a trickling stream, gathering momentum as it cascades over steep rock faces and through forested valleys. Along the way, Taikan populates his panorama with deer (traditionally seen as mediators between the sacred and secular worlds), monkeys, and small human figures — fishermen, travelers, and villagers going about their daily lives.

As streams merge into rivers, the landscape opens up to reveal broad waterways, communities along the banks, and bridges spanning the current. The river continues to swell, passing through pastoral scenes until it finally reaches the open sea. Here, the mood shifts dramatically: dark clouds gather, waves churn, and from the tumult of ocean spray and swirling mist, a mighty dragon emerges, ascending toward the sky. In East Asian tradition, the dragon is a guardian of water and a symbol of celestial power. The dragon's ascent signifies that the water, having completed its earthly journey, returns to the heavens as clouds and rain — ready to begin the cycle anew.

Why Is This Work Designated as an Important Cultural Property?

Metempsychosis was designated as an Important Cultural Property of Japan on June 15, 1967. It is recognized as a masterwork that represents the culmination of Yokoyama Taikan's lifelong pursuit of a new style of ink painting (suibokuga). Several qualities distinguish this painting as a work of exceptional cultural value:

• Unprecedented scale and compositional mastery: Despite its extraordinary length, the scroll maintains a flawless compositional balance throughout, with no section appearing weak or repetitive — a feat of artistic endurance and planning.
• Synthesis of traditional and modern techniques: Taikan drew on the ink painting traditions of masters like Sesshū and Sesson while incorporating his own innovative approaches, including the katabokashi (one-sided blur) technique and effects reminiscent of Western chiaroscuro.
• Philosophical depth: The work transcends mere landscape painting to embody a profound meditation on the nature of existence, drawing on Buddhist and East Asian philosophical traditions.
• Historical significance: As a landmark work in the development of modern Nihonga (Japanese-style painting), it demonstrates how traditional Japanese art could evolve and renew itself while maintaining its spiritual essence.

Yokoyama Taikan: Pioneer of Modern Japanese Painting

Born in Mito (present-day Ibaraki Prefecture) in 1868, Yokoyama Taikan entered the Tokyo Fine Arts School as one of its first students, studying under the visionary educator Okakura Tenshin (Kakuzō) and the painter Hashimoto Gahō. After graduating, he joined Okakura in founding the Japan Art Institute (Nihon Bijutsuin) in 1898, dedicating himself to creating a new form of Japanese painting that could hold its own in the modern world.

Together with his close friend Hishida Shunsō, Taikan developed the mōrōtai ("hazy style"), a revolutionary technique that abandoned traditional outline drawing in favor of soft gradations of color and tone to capture light, atmosphere, and movement. Though harshly criticized by conservative art circles at the time, this approach is now celebrated as a pivotal innovation in Japanese art history.

Taikan received the first-ever Order of Culture in 1937 and is also renowned for painting over 1,500 depictions of Mount Fuji throughout his career. He lived to the age of 89, leaving behind a vast legacy that continues to shape the world of Japanese painting.

Highlights and What to Look For

When you have the opportunity to view Metempsychosis, here are some details to watch for:

• The opening mist: Notice how Taikan uses the subtlest gradations of ink to conjure humid mountain air. The moisture almost seems to rise from the silk itself.
• Small figures and animals: Throughout the vast landscape, tiny human figures and wildlife appear — fishermen casting nets, deer among the trees, monkeys playing. These intimate details contrast beautifully with the epic scale of the composition.
• The transition from calm to storm: As the river approaches the sea, the brushwork grows bolder and more dynamic. The contrast between the serene mountain scenes and the violent ocean is breathtaking.
• The ascending dragon: At the scroll's climax, a dragon surges upward through crashing waves and swirling clouds, rendered with powerful, energetic brushstrokes that convey an almost physical sense of movement.
• The artist's inscription: At the very end of the scroll, Taikan inscribed "Taishō Water Pig (1923), eighth month, by Taikan," along with his Shōkodō seal.

Because of its immense length, the full 40-meter scroll is only rarely displayed in its entirety. The museum occasionally shows it in full during special exhibitions on the first floor, while at other times portions are displayed as part of the MOMAT Collection exhibitions. A stunning 4K video of the complete scroll, produced by the museum, is also available online for those who wish to study it in detail.

The National Museum of Modern Art, Tokyo (MOMAT)

The National Museum of Modern Art, Tokyo — commonly known by its acronym MOMAT — is Japan's first national art museum, originally established in 1952 and relocated to its current home in Kitanomaru Park in 1969. The museum holds over 13,000 works spanning from the Meiji era to the present, making it the premier institution for modern and contemporary Japanese art.

Set in the lush greenery of Kitanomaru Park, adjacent to the Imperial Palace grounds and the famous Chidorigafuchi moat (one of Tokyo's most celebrated cherry blossom viewing spots), the museum offers a tranquil cultural retreat in the heart of the city. The building was extensively renovated in 2001–2002, adding expanded gallery spaces, a museum shop, and the restaurant L'Art et Mikuni.

Nearby Attractions

A visit to MOMAT can easily be combined with exploration of the surrounding area, which is rich in cultural and natural attractions:

• Kitanomaru Park: A spacious green park that is home to several museums and cultural institutions, and a popular spot for cherry blossom viewing in spring and autumn foliage.
• Chidorigafuchi: The iconic moat along the Imperial Palace, famous for its stunning cherry blossom tunnels in late March and early April. Rowboat rentals are available in season.
• The Imperial Palace East Gardens: Open to the public free of charge, these beautifully maintained gardens feature remnants of Edo Castle and seasonal flowers.
• Science Museum (Kagaku Gijutsukan): Located within Kitanomaru Park, this interactive museum is especially enjoyable for families.
• Yasukuni Shrine: A historically significant Shinto shrine located a short walk north of the park.