Former Katsuragi-kan: A Meiji-Era Wooden Inn at the Gateway to Mount Kōya

Standing proudly in front of JR Kōyaguchi Station in Hashimoto City, Wakayama Prefecture, the Former Katsuragi-kan (旧葛城館) is one of the most striking examples of Meiji-era wooden inn architecture surviving in Japan. This three-story wooden ryokan, estimated to have been built in the late Meiji period (around 1901–1910), served as a place of rest and lodging for pilgrims making their way to the sacred Mount Kōya. Today, it stands as a nationally Registered Tangible Cultural Property, and since March 2024, it has been reborn as a charming café where visitors can enjoy Japanese-style sweets amid a breathtaking atmosphere of historical beauty.

Historical Background

The story of the Former Katsuragi-kan is intimately linked with the history of rail travel to Mount Kōya. In 1901 (Meiji 34), the Kiwa Railway opened Nagura Station at this location, providing the closest rail access to the sacred mountain. By 1903, the station was renamed Kōyaguchi Station to reflect its role as the gateway to Mount Kōya. Dozens of inns quickly sprang up around the station to accommodate the influx of pilgrims, and the area flourished as a bustling transportation hub.

Among these inns, two particularly impressive three-story wooden buildings dominated the station front, their temple-like architecture symbolizing the spiritual journey ahead. The Katsuragi-kan is the sole survivor of these grand structures. Although no precise construction records remain, the building is estimated to date from shortly after the station's opening in the late Meiji period.

At the height of its prosperity, around 1907, as many as 235 rickshaws waited at the station to transport pilgrims up the mountain road. By 1913, this number had grown to 283. However, when the Nankai Railway (now Nankai Electric Railway) opened a competing line closer to Mount Kōya in 1925, the station's importance as a pilgrim gateway gradually diminished.

The Katsuragi-kan continued operating as a banquet hall until around 1993–1994, when it finally ceased business. In 2001, the building was registered as a national Registered Tangible Cultural Property. A major conservation repair costing approximately 31 million yen was carried out in 2012 to address structural deterioration. In 2015, the building served as a venue for the WAKAYAMA SALONE arts festival. Then in March 2024, it was reopened as Café Katsuragi-kan, offering visitors a unique opportunity to experience this historic space firsthand.

Why It Was Designated as a Cultural Property

The Former Katsuragi-kan was registered as a Tangible Cultural Property in November 2001 for its significance as a rare surviving example of a wooden three-story Japanese-style inn (ryokan) from the Meiji era. The building is recognized as a valuable specimen of Japanese ryokan architecture, demonstrating the distinctive building techniques and aesthetic sensibilities of the period. Its survival is especially noteworthy given that wooden three-story structures from this era are exceptionally rare in Japan, making it an important document of both architectural history and the social history of pilgrimage culture along the route to Mount Kōya.

Architectural Highlights

The Former Katsuragi-kan is a wooden three-story building with a total floor area of approximately 113 square meters. Its architectural design is a fascinating blend of traditional grandeur and surprisingly modern transparency.

Roof and Gables

The building features an irimoya-zukuri (hipped-and-gabled) roof clad in san-gawara (pantile) tiles. The main roof of the third floor is crowned with a chidori-hafu (triangular dormer gable) and a noki-karahafu (cusped bargeboard gable), layered one upon the other. This arrangement of decorative gables is typically found in distinguished temple architecture, such as the main halls of Kokawa-dera and Kimii-dera temples in Wakayama Prefecture, lending the building a sense of spiritual dignity and grandeur.

Glass Façade

In striking contrast to the weighty traditional roof, the front (north-facing) and east-side elevations of the second and third floors are fitted entirely with glass sliding doors. This full-glass treatment creates an effect remarkably similar to a modern curtain wall, filling the interior with natural light while presenting an unexpectedly airy and contemporary appearance. The glass panes still retain their original surface irregularities—subtle imperfections that speak to the handcrafted manufacturing methods of the era. The interplay between the imposing roof above and the luminous glass below creates a unique aesthetic harmony that defines the building's character.

Copper Eaves and Entrance

The eaves extending across the front and east faces are clad in copper sheeting, adding a warm patina that complements the tile roof above. The entrance retains wooden signboards left by former regular guests—tangible reminders of the inn's lively heyday when it welcomed countless pilgrims heading for Mount Kōya.

Visiting Café Katsuragi-kan

Since reopening as a café in March 2024, the Former Katsuragi-kan offers visitors a chance to step inside this remarkable building and savor its atmosphere over tea and sweets. The café occupies the second floor, where guests are seated in the spacious tatami rooms that once hosted weary pilgrims. Antique Taishō-era lampshades and vintage furnishings create a nostalgic ambiance that perfectly complements the building's historical character.

The menu features Japanese-style desserts including matcha affogato, hōjicha cheesecake, and other treats that honor the building's traditional roots. The café is open from 13:00 to 18:00, with regular closing days on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays. Visitors are also welcome to explore the third floor to admire the architecture and enjoy views of the surrounding area. Credit cards and electronic payments are accepted.

Surrounding Attractions

The Former Katsuragi-kan is located in an area rich with cultural and historical interest, making it an ideal starting point for exploring the heritage of the Kōyaguchi district.

  • Kōyaguchi Pile Textile Museum — Just a two-minute walk from JR Kōyaguchi Station, this museum showcases the area's celebrated pile weaving tradition, which dates back to the Meiji era. Kōyaguchi is Japan's leading producer of pile fabrics, supplying everything from bullet train seat covers to eco-fur for international luxury fashion brands. Visitors can learn about the manufacturing process and try their hand at saori (re-weaving) for a hands-on experience.
  • Kōyaguchi Elementary School — This magnificent wooden school building, constructed in 1937, is one of the largest active wooden school buildings in Japan and has been designated a national Important Cultural Property. Interior visits are available by prior appointment.
  • Babatare-zaka Slope — A historic slope that once served as the main road for pilgrims heading to Mount Kōya. Its unusual name comes from the pack animals that would strain so hard climbing the hill that they left droppings along the way. The surrounding streetscape retains a charming atmosphere from bygone days.
  • Kōshinzan Park — Located on a hill just north of JR Kōyaguchi Station, this park offers panoramic views of the Kinokawa River valley and is a popular cherry blossom viewing spot in spring. An observation tower at the summit provides sweeping vistas of the surrounding mountains.
  • Mount Kōya (Kōyasan) — The sacred headquarters of Shingon Buddhism, a UNESCO World Heritage Site located approximately 30 minutes by car from Kōyaguchi. The mountain temple complex, founded by Kūkai (Kōbō Daishi) in 816, features over 100 temples, many offering overnight temple lodging.
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Q&A

QCan visitors go inside the Former Katsuragi-kan?
AYes. Since March 2024, the building has been operating as Café Katsuragi-kan. Visitors can enjoy tea and sweets on the second floor and are welcome to view the third floor as well. The café is open from 13:00 to 18:00, closed on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays.
QHow do I get to the Former Katsuragi-kan?
AThe building is located directly in front of JR Kōyaguchi Station on the JR Wakayama Line. It is visible immediately upon exiting the station—approximately one minute on foot. Free parking is available on-site (about 12 spaces).
QWhen was the Former Katsuragi-kan built?
AAlthough no exact construction records survive, the building is estimated to have been built in the late Meiji period, shortly after Nagura Station (now Kōyaguchi Station) opened in 1901. It originally served as a ryokan inn for pilgrims traveling to Mount Kōya.
QWhat makes this building architecturally special?
AThe Former Katsuragi-kan is notable for the striking contrast between its heavy, temple-style irimoya roof with layered decorative gables and its remarkably transparent full-glass façade on the upper floors. This blend of traditional grandeur and modern lightness is exceptionally rare in surviving Meiji-era wooden buildings.
QIs there an admission fee?
AThere is no admission fee to enter the building. Visitors are welcome to order from the café menu, which includes matcha lattes, cheesecakes, and other Japanese-style treats at reasonable prices.

Basic Information

Name Former Katsuragi-kan (旧葛城館 / Kyū Katsuragi-kan)
Current Use Café Katsuragi-kan (Café' KATSURAGIKAN)
Cultural Property Designation Registered Tangible Cultural Property (Building), registered November 20, 2001
Construction Period Late Meiji period (estimated early 1900s)
Structure Wooden, three stories, irimoya-zukuri roof with pantile and copper cladding; building area approx. 113 m²
Address 1053 Nagura, Kōyaguchi-chō, Hashimoto City, Wakayama Prefecture 649-7205
Access Directly in front of JR Kōyaguchi Station (JR Wakayama Line), approx. 1 minute on foot
Café Hours 13:00–18:00 (closed Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays)
Parking Free parking available (front: 7 spaces, rear: 5 spaces)

References

Last verified: 2026.04.03