The Former Ministry of Agriculture Snow Country Research Office: A Monument to Japan's Struggle Against Snow

Nestled in the city of Shinjo in Yamagata Prefecture, the Former Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry Snow Country Rural Economy Research Office Building (旧農林省積雪地方農村経済調査所庁舎) stands as a remarkable testament to Japan's pioneering efforts to understand and overcome the challenges of life in heavy snowfall regions. Known affectionately as "Secchō" (雪調), this charming early Shōwa-era government building has been registered as a National Registered Tangible Cultural Property since 2014, and today serves as the Yuki no Sato Information Center (Snow Country Information Center), welcoming visitors with its distinctive steeply pitched roof and Western-style architectural character.

Built in 1937, this wooden building represents one of the few surviving works designed under the pre-war Ministry of Finance Construction Bureau (大蔵省営繕管財局), with its basic design attributed to Kon Wajirō, the celebrated father of "modernology" (考現学) in Japan. It offers visitors a unique window into a little-known but fascinating chapter of Japanese history — the movement to rescue snow country communities from poverty and hardship through scientific research and policy reform.

A History Born from Hardship: The Snow Disaster Relief Movement

In the early Shōwa period, communities in Japan's heavy snowfall regions endured severe poverty that was largely invisible to the central government in Tokyo. Villages were buried under meters of snow for months each year, isolating residents and devastating agricultural productivity. The struggles of these rural communities were largely ignored until a passionate advocate emerged.

Matsuoka Shunzō, a Diet member from the Murayama area of Yamagata Prefecture, launched the "Snow Disaster Relief Movement" (雪害救済運動), campaigning tirelessly to bring national attention to the plight of snow country residents. His efforts bore fruit in 1933 (Shōwa 8) when the Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry established the Snow Country Rural Economy Research Office in Shinjo — the first institution of its kind in all of Japan.

The research office, commonly known as "Secchō," conducted scientific investigations into the nature of snow itself, studied the living conditions of farming communities in the Mogami region, and developed practical strategies to help snow country residents achieve economic independence. Its work laid the foundation for the Japan Society of Snow and Ice (日本雪氷学会), which continues its mission to this day.

Architectural Significance: A Rare Surviving Pre-War Government Building

The main office building that survives today was completed in 1937 (Shōwa 12) and is a fine example of early Shōwa-period government architecture adapted for a snow country environment. The building features a corridor-type floor plan stretching approximately 36 meters in length, with its most distinctive feature being the steeply pitched gable roof covered in metal sheeting — an essential design consideration for shedding the region's heavy snowfall.

A row of triangular dormer windows punctuates the roofline, their entire surfaces filled with glass panes set in carefully proportioned wooden muntins. The exterior walls are clad in weatherboard (下見板張り), and a prominent gabled entrance porch marks the center of the main façade. The overall effect is a charmingly Western-style building that must have appeared strikingly modern in what was then a remote rural town.

The building is valued as a rare surviving example of work by the pre-war Ministry of Finance Construction Bureau, the government agency responsible for designing official buildings throughout Japan. Its registration as a National Registered Tangible Cultural Property in April 2014 recognized both its architectural merit and its historical importance as a symbol of Shinjo's snow country heritage.

Charlotte Perriand's Unexpected Connection to Snow Country

One of the most intriguing stories associated with the Secchō involves the renowned French designer Charlotte Perriand. In 1940, Perriand arrived in Japan at the invitation of the Ministry of Commerce and Industry to advise on industrial design. Accompanied by Yanagi Sōri (son of mingei movement founder Yanagi Muneyoshi), she traveled throughout Japan and visited Shinjo in October of that year.

At the research office, Perriand encountered the folk craft collection assembled by the Secchō and was deeply impressed by the technical skill and artistic quality of the local craftwork. The institute's director, Yamaguchi, asked her to help develop strategies for the region's people. Perriand worked with local farming families to create furniture pieces — including chaise longues — that applied traditional materials and techniques to modern functional designs. Her philosophy was not simply to produce folk crafts for sale, but to transform traditional skills into contemporary interior furnishings.

Although her collaboration was cut short by the escalation of the Pacific War, Perriand's brief but meaningful connection to Shinjo represents a remarkable intersection of international modernist design and Japanese rural craft traditions. The Yuki no Sato Information Center today features exhibitions related to her visit and legacy.

Highlights and Things to See

Today the building serves as the Yuki no Sato Information Center (雪の里情報館), a museum and learning facility dedicated to the history of snow country life and the legacy of the Snow Disaster Relief Movement. Here are the key highlights for visitors:

• The first floor preserves the building's original classroom-like room layout, now housing permanent exhibitions on the science of snow — including beautiful snow crystal photography — and the daily life of snow country communities throughout history.
• Exhibitions related to Charlotte Perriand's 1940 visit to Shinjo, including documentation of her collaboration with local artisans and her design philosophy of merging tradition with modernity.
• The second floor offers a unique perspective on the building's iconic steeply pitched roof as seen from the interior, revealing the impressive timber construction that supports the snow-shedding design.
• The facility houses over 40,000 items in its collection, including reports, research materials, and folk craft objects inherited from the original Secchō, providing an invaluable archive of snow country cultural heritage.
• The exterior of the building itself is a highlight, with its charming weatherboard walls, distinctive dormer windows, and entrance porch creating a photogenic scene that evokes the optimistic modernism of pre-war Japan.

Surrounding Attractions in Shinjo

Shinjo offers a wealth of cultural and historical attractions that complement a visit to the Secchō building. The city served as the castle town of the Tozawa clan for 243 years, and traces of this samurai heritage remain throughout the area.

Mogami Park (最上公園), built on the ruins of Shinjo Castle, is a beloved local landmark particularly famous for its roughly 300 cherry trees that bloom magnificently each spring. The park also houses Tozawa Shrine, which enshrines the founders of the Shinjo domain. Nearby, the Shinjo Furusato History Center showcases the city's cultural heritage, including impressive floats from the Shinjo Matsuri festival — a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage event held every August that draws approximately 500,000 visitors over three days.

The Shinjo City Ecology Garden (エコロジーガーデン), located in the northern part of the city on the grounds of a former national sericulture research facility, offers another example of how Shinjo is preserving and repurposing its historical institutional buildings. For lovers of traditional crafts, the local Higashiyama pottery tradition, maintained for over 180 years, offers hands-on ceramic experiences.

Nature enthusiasts can enjoy the Mogami River boat cruise, a scenic 12-kilometer journey through the Mogami Gorge with its 48 waterfalls, or explore the nearby hot spring resorts of Sema Onsen and Hijiori Onsen for a relaxing end to the day.

Visiting Information and Access

Shinjo is the terminus of the Yamagata Shinkansen line, making it easily accessible from Tokyo in approximately three and a half hours. The Yuki no Sato Information Center is located about a 10-minute drive from JR Shinjo Station, along National Route 458. Parking for approximately 20 vehicles is available on site.

The best time to visit depends on what you wish to experience. Winter (December through March) offers the most atmospheric setting, with the building nestled in deep snow that vividly illustrates the very conditions the Secchō was established to study. Spring and autumn provide comfortable weather for exploring on foot, while a visit during the Shinjo Matsuri in late August combines cultural heritage with one of Tohoku's most spectacular festival experiences.