Yakushido Hall of Gekkinji Temple

Gatsurinji Yakushido: Yamaguchi Prefecture's Oldest Wooden Building

Nestled among the forested hills of Tokuchi in Yamaguchi City, Gatsurinji Yakushido (月輪寺薬師堂) stands as the oldest surviving wooden structure in all of Yamaguchi Prefecture. Designated as a national Important Cultural Property, this humble yet elegant thatched-roof hall dates back to 1189 and embodies over eight centuries of Japanese Buddhist heritage. For travelers seeking an authentic encounter with Japan's medieval past—far from the crowds of more famous temples—Gatsurinji Yakushido offers a rare and deeply moving experience.

A History Intertwined with Todai-ji's Reconstruction

The story of Gatsurinji Yakushido begins long before the current building was erected. Temple records trace its origins to the year 607 CE, when Prince Shotoku is said to have founded a hall called Seiryo-ji in the nearby village of Kushi, enshrining a Yakushi Nyorai (Medicine Buddha) statue. Over the centuries, however, the temple fell into disrepair and was eventually abandoned, with its sacred images left buried and forgotten in the earth.

The hall's rebirth came through one of the most remarkable figures in Japanese history: the monk Chogen (重源上人, 1121–1206). In 1180, the great Todai-ji temple in Nara was devastated by fire during the Genpei War. The following year, the elderly Chogen—already over 60 years of age—was appointed Grand Steward (Daikanjin) of Todai-ji's reconstruction, a monumental national undertaking. Chogen traveled to Suo Province (present-day eastern Yamaguchi Prefecture) to procure the massive timbers needed for rebuilding the Great Buddha Hall. The forests of Tokuchi became the primary source of these precious building materials.

While directing the timber operations along the Saba River, Chogen learned of the ruined Seiryo-ji and resolved to restore it. With the generous support of Fujiwara no Kanezane (1149–1207), the powerful regent and Chancellor who was known by his estate name "Gatsurin-dono" (Lord of the Moon Wheel), Chogen relocated and reconstructed the hall at its present site in 1189. The temple was renamed Gatsurinji—literally "Moon Wheel Temple"—in honor of its illustrious patron.

Why It Was Designated an Important Cultural Property

Gatsurinji Yakushido was designated as a national Important Cultural Property in 1949 (originally designated under the former National Treasures system, then reclassified under the Cultural Properties Protection Act of 1950). The designation recognizes the hall as the oldest extant wooden building in Yamaguchi Prefecture and a valuable example of early Kamakura-period temple architecture.

The building measures five bays wide (approximately 12.27 meters) by four bays deep (approximately 9.82 meters), with a single-story hip-roof design covered in thatch. Architectural analysis of its structural techniques and construction methods confirms that the core of the building dates to the Bunji-era reconstruction of 1189, making it a rare surviving example of late Heian to early Kamakura-period provincial architecture. While repairs were made during the late Kamakura to Muromachi periods and a major restoration was carried out in the early Edo period, much of the original timber in the inner sanctuary has been remarkably well preserved.

One notable characteristic of the hall is that the timber was shaped using axes (ono) and adzes rather than planes (kanna), a technique typical of its era that gives the wood surfaces a distinctive rough-hewn texture. This rustic construction method, combined with the hall's well-proportioned form, exemplifies what experts describe as the simple yet dignified aesthetic of Kamakura-period architecture.

Highlights and What to See

The Yakushido itself is the primary attraction. The thatched hip roof and weathered wooden structure convey a sense of austere beauty that has been carefully preserved over the centuries. The hall is divided into an outer and inner sanctuary. Inside, a Muromachi-period Buddhist altar shrine (zushi)—also designated as part of the cultural property—houses the principal image of Yakushi Nyorai (Medicine Buddha). This main Buddha statue is a secret image (hibutsu) that is revealed to the public only once every twenty years; the next unveiling is expected around 2037.

In addition to the Yakushi Nyorai, the hall contains several other significant Buddhist sculptures. The Sho-Kannon (Sacred Avalokitesvara) standing figure and a set of Four Heavenly Kings (Shitennō) wooden statues are designated as Yamaguchi Prefecture Tangible Cultural Properties. The temple grounds also preserve a bronze crocodile-mouth gong (waniguchi) and a bronze sutra container (kyōzutsu), both designated as Yamaguchi City Cultural Properties.

The approach to the Yakushido leads visitors up a stone stairway flanked by mature trees, creating a serene and contemplative atmosphere. The surrounding rural landscape of Tokuchi—with its rice paddies, forested mountains, and quiet village roads—provides a beautiful natural setting that has changed little over the centuries.

The annual Yakushi Daiennichi (Great Festival Day) is held on May 5th and draws local worshippers to the temple.

The Legacy of Chogen in Tokuchi

Gatsurinji Yakushido is just one part of a rich network of historical sites in the Tokuchi area connected to the monk Chogen and his epic undertaking to rebuild Todai-ji. During the timber operations, Chogen constructed stone steam baths (ishifuro) throughout the region to care for the health of the laborers—a remarkably compassionate measure for the era. Several of these stone baths survive today, including the Kishimi Stone Bath and the Notani Stone Bath, both recognized as cultural properties. The Kishimi Stone Bath is the only one still in occasional use, offering visitors a chance to experience an ancient style of herbal steam bathing.

Chogen also built weirs and water channels (sekisui) along the Saba River to float the enormous logs downstream to the sea, where they were shipped to Nara. Remarkably, the timber from Tokuchi's forests was used not only for the Great Buddha Hall but also for the famous Nio guardian statues at Todai-ji's Nandaimon gate, sculpted by the master craftsman Unkei.

Nearby Attractions

The Tokuchi area offers several rewarding side trips that complement a visit to Gatsurinji Yakushido. Chogen no Sato (重源の郷) is a cultural experience park set in a recreated early-Showa mountain village, where visitors can try traditional crafts such as paper-making (washi), woodworking, and soba noodle-making while learning about Chogen's legacy. The park also features a Cultural Heritage Hall, a 800-year-old camellia tree, and beautiful seasonal scenery including hydrangeas in June and autumn foliage.

Hokoji Temple (法光寺), another site linked to Chogen, houses an Amida Hall with Buddhist statues whose wood has been scientifically confirmed to come from the same trees used for the Todai-ji Nandaimon guardian figures. The historic stone thirteen-story pagoda in the temple grounds is believed to date from the late Kamakura period.

For those with more time, the city of Yamaguchi is approximately 30 kilometers to the west and offers the celebrated five-story pagoda of Rurikoji Temple (National Treasure) and the hot spring resort of Yuda Onsen. To the south, the city of Hofu features Hofu Tenmangu Shrine, one of Japan's three great Tenjin shrines.