Former Saionji Family Okitsu Villa (Zagyoso)

The Former Saionji Family Okitsu Villa "Zagyoso": A Window into Japan's Political History

Nestled within the grounds of the Museum Meiji-mura in Inuyama, Aichi Prefecture, the Former Saionji Family Okitsu Villa, known as "Zagyoso," stands as one of Japan's most historically significant residential buildings. Designated as an Important Cultural Property of Japan in 2017, this exquisite sukiya-style villa once served as the retreat of Prince Saionji Kinmochi (1849–1940), the last genro (elder statesman) of Japan. Among the villa's designated structures, the guard station (keiei tsumesho), the attendants' waiting area and gate (tomamachi oyobi mon) bear silent witness to the intense political activity and strict security measures that surrounded one of modern Japan's most influential figures.

Prince Saionji Kinmochi: The Last Elder Statesman

Prince Saionji Kinmochi was born in 1849 as the second son of Tokudaiji Kinito, a high-ranking court noble. He traveled to France in 1871, where he studied law at the Sorbonne for nearly a decade, gaining a deep appreciation for Western liberal thought. Upon his return, he co-founded the Toyo Jiyu Shinbun newspaper to promote liberal democratic ideas. He went on to serve in numerous government posts—as minister to various countries, Minister of Education, Minister of Foreign Affairs, and Minister of Finance—before becoming Prime Minister twice, in 1906–1908 and 1911–1912.

After the death of Matsukata Masayoshi in 1924, Saionji became the sole surviving genro, an unofficial but immensely powerful position in Japan's political system. In this role, he advised the Emperor on critical matters of state, most notably the selection of successive prime ministers. His influence extended through the turbulent decades of Taisho democracy and early Showa militarism, making him one of the most consequential political figures in modern Japanese history. He is also remembered as the founder of Ritsumeikan University in Kyoto.

The Birth of Zagyoso

In 1916, Saionji began spending winters at a rented villa in Okitsu, a seaside town along Suruga Bay in present-day Shimizu Ward, Shizuoka City. Enchanted by the mild climate and scenic beauty of Kiyomigata—a coastline celebrated in classical Japanese poetry—he decided to build his own retreat there. Construction was completed in September 1919, with the full cost borne by the Sumitomo family, headed by his younger brother Sumitomo Tomonari.

The villa was christened "Zagyoso" at the suggestion of Viscount Watanabe Chihuyu. The name references the ancient Chinese tale of Taigong Wang (Lü Shang), who was discovered by King Wen of Zhou while sitting quietly and fishing. It conveyed Saionji's wish to spend his retirement in peaceful leisure. In reality, however, the villa became anything but quiet—politicians, military officials, and dignitaries made constant pilgrimages to Okitsu in what became known as "Okitsu-mode" (Okitsu pilgrimage), seeking the elder statesman's counsel on matters of national importance.

The Guard Station, Attendants' Waiting Area, and Gate

As the last genro, Saionji was a figure of paramount political importance, and his safety was a matter of national concern. The guard station (keiei tsumesho) was positioned strategically near the entrance to the compound, housing the police officers who maintained round-the-clock security. Following the May 15 Incident of 1932, when Prime Minister Inukai Tsuyoshi was assassinated, and especially after the February 26 Incident of 1936, security around Zagyoso was dramatically intensified, with as many as 60 dedicated police officers stationed at the property.

The attendants' waiting area (tomamachi) served as a space where servants and attendants of visiting dignitaries would wait while their masters consulted with Saionji inside. Given the extraordinary frequency of high-ranking visitors, this modest structure witnessed an unceasing parade of Japan's political elite. The gate, designed in a refined sukiya style with elegant bamboo doors, was so understated that locals reportedly mistook the villa for a small Japanese restaurant. Yet this simplicity was deliberate—reflecting Saionji's refined taste and the aesthetic philosophy of sukiya architecture, which prizes subtlety over ostentation.

Together with the main house, these structures were designated as Important Cultural Properties in February 2017, recognized for their significance as rare surviving examples of a seaside villa built by a modern political figure, and for the way they document the evolution of security measures during a period of intense political upheaval.

Architectural Splendor in Simplicity

The entire Zagyoso complex is a masterwork of sukiya-zukuri (tea-house-style) architecture, designed by Norimatsu Koji, an architect with the Sumitomo Corporation. Skilled carpenters were brought from Kyoto to ensure the highest level of craftsmanship. Though the villa appears modest at first glance, it conceals extraordinary quality in every detail. The pillars feature rare mentuki (faceted) finishing that required thirty times the usual amount of labor. All exterior walls are clad in sugi (cedar) bark, and bamboo—Saionji's favorite material—is used prolifically throughout the buildings, from transom windows to ceiling treatments.

Notably, the bamboo lattices on the windows conceal iron reinforcements within—a clever security measure that blended seamlessly with the aesthetic design. The bathroom features a white bamboo funadoko (boat-bottom) ceiling, a striking example of creative material use. The southern-facing windows were fitted with Vita Glass, a special glass that transmitted ultraviolet rays, reflecting the contemporary belief that indoor sunlight exposure was beneficial to health.

The garden was designed by Ogawa Jihei (7th generation), the legendary landscape architect also known as "Ueji," who created gardens for the Heian Shrine, the Kyoto Imperial Palace, and the Furukawa Gardens in Tokyo. When the villa was relocated to Meiji-mura, the principal garden stones and trees were also carefully transplanted to preserve the original landscape.

Why Was Zagyoso Designated as an Important Cultural Property?

The designation in 2017 recognized the villa complex on two key grounds: its architectural excellence and its historical significance. As an architectural work, it represents a pinnacle of sukiya-style residential design, employing superior materials and refined craftsmanship that embody the highest traditions of Japanese woodworking. The creative use of bamboo throughout the complex, along with innovative structural techniques such as diagonal bracing and iron cross-bracing to withstand coastal winds, demonstrates a sophisticated blending of traditional aesthetics with modern engineering.

Historically, the villa is an irreplaceable record of the genro system and its role in shaping modern Japan. The guard station and gate, in particular, physically manifest the extraordinary security apparatus that surrounded the nation's most powerful political advisor during decades of political instability, from the Taisho era through the militarist period of the early Showa era. The successive modifications and expansions of the compound—including the addition of a reinforced concrete shelter after the May 15 Incident—document the escalating tensions of the era in built form.

Relocation to Meiji-mura and Preservation

After Saionji's death in 1940 at Zagyoso, the property passed through several owners, including Prince Takamatsu. By the late 1960s, significant deterioration had set in, and in 1968, an agreement was reached to relocate the villa to the Museum Meiji-mura in Inuyama, Aichi Prefecture. The buildings were carefully dismantled, measured, and labeled, then reassembled at Meiji-mura between 1969 and 1970, where they have been open to the public since 1971.

A faithful replica of the villa was also constructed at the original Okitsu site in 2004, now open to visitors as the Okitsu Zagyoso Memorial Hall, allowing people to experience the building in its original coastal setting as well.

Highlights for Visitors

Inside the villa, all the furnishings are original pieces used by Saionji himself. Having spent a decade in France, the prince favored Western-style furniture, and visitors can see his personal desk and chair arranged as they once were. Call buttons installed throughout the building allowed him to summon servants to the room—an advanced convenience for the period. On the second floor, sliding open the shoji screens reveals a panoramic view of Iruka Pond backed by distant mountains—reminiscent of the original vista of Suruga Bay.

Building guides are available at Meiji-mura, offering detailed explanations of the villa's architectural features, historical significance, and Saionji's daily life. The guided tours are free and require no reservation, though visitor numbers inside the building may be limited for preservation purposes.

Surrounding Attractions at Meiji-mura and Beyond

The Museum Meiji-mura is itself one of Japan's premier open-air museums, housing over 60 historically significant buildings from the Meiji era, including 11 designated Important Cultural Properties. Notable nearby structures include the Central Entrance of the Imperial Hotel designed by Frank Lloyd Wright, the Saigo Tsugumichi Residence, and the Shinagawa Lighthouse. Visitors can ride an authentic Meiji-era steam locomotive and a Kyoto streetcar within the museum grounds.

The nearby city of Inuyama offers additional attractions, including Inuyama Castle—one of Japan's twelve surviving original castles and a National Treasure—along with its charming castle town, the Urakuen tea garden housing the National Treasure Jo-an tea room, and the scenic Kiso River where visitors can enjoy traditional cormorant fishing in summer.