Nanbu Koma Dance

Introduction: Nanbu Koma Odori — The Wild Horse Dance of Northern Japan

In the rolling pastures and rugged highlands of what was once the Nanbu Domain in northern Honshu, horses were more than livestock — they were the lifeblood of the region's economy, identity, and culture. Nanbu Koma Odori (南部駒踊), or the Nanbu Horse Dance, is a vibrant folk performing art that transforms the ancient tradition of wild horse roundups into a breathtaking spectacle of choreographed movement, colorful costumes, and spirited music. Rooted in the Edo period and sustained across more than four centuries, this dance continues to be performed in communities across Aomori Prefecture, most notably in Towada City, Misawa City, Hachinohe City, and the town of Gonohe.

Designated as an Aomori Prefectural Intangible Folk Cultural Property in 1959, and selected by the national government in 1974 as an intangible folk cultural property requiring documentation and preservation measures, Nanbu Koma Odori stands as one of the most distinctive and regionally characteristic performing arts in all of Japan. It offers visitors a rare window into the equestrian heritage that defined life in the Nanbu region for centuries.

Historical Background: The Nanbu Domain and Its Legendary Horses

To understand Nanbu Koma Odori, one must first appreciate the extraordinary role that horses played in the Nanbu Domain. The region historically known as Nukanobu — encompassing much of present-day Aomori and northern Iwate Prefectures — was renowned throughout Japan as a premier horse-breeding territory. The area's connection to equine culture stretches back to ancient times, with local horses prized for their robust build and endurance.

During the Kamakura period (1185–1333), the Nanbu clan, originally from Kai Province (present-day Yamanashi Prefecture), was dispatched to the region partly due to their expertise in horse management. Under Nanbu stewardship, a sophisticated system of nine official pastures, known as the Nanbu Kyūboku (南部九牧), was established across the domain. These government-operated ranches bred the celebrated Nanbu horses, which were sought after by feudal lords across the nation. At Matashigeno, one of these historic pastures, wild horses roamed freely until autumn, when young men from surrounding villages would participate in the dramatic annual event of catching and taming the horses — a practice called noma-dori (野馬捕り).

It was this spectacular autumn roundup that gave birth to Nanbu Koma Odori. Over generations, the excitement, skill, and communal spirit of the wild horse capture were distilled into a ritualized performing art, passed down through village communities and eventually dedicated as an offering at local shrines and temples.

Why Nanbu Koma Odori Was Designated as a Cultural Property

Nanbu Koma Odori holds a dual designation that reflects its cultural significance at both the prefectural and national levels. The dance was designated as an Aomori Prefectural Intangible Folk Cultural Property on October 6, 1959, and was further recognized on December 4, 1974, when the national Agency for Cultural Affairs selected it as an intangible folk cultural property requiring documentation and preservation measures.

The designation recognizes several key attributes of the dance. First, it represents a remarkably vivid example of how practical economic activities — in this case, horse breeding and roundups — can be transformed into artistic expression. The dance preserves knowledge of equestrian customs that have otherwise largely disappeared from modern life. Second, the strongly regional character of the performance makes it a uniquely valuable record of Nanbu cultural identity. The distinctive sight of dancers straddling wooden horse frames evokes the ancient tradition of harugoma (spring horse) celebrations, linking Nanbu Koma Odori to a broader network of New Year's blessing rituals found across Japan. Third, the multiple preservation societies maintaining the tradition across different communities demonstrate how a single folk art can take on varied local expressions while retaining its essential character.

The Performance: Structure and Highlights

A Nanbu Koma Odori performance is a feast for the senses. The dancers wear ornate hanagasa (flower hats) and jinbaori (campaign surcoats), and each performer attaches a wooden horse frame — shaped like the head and body of a horse — to their waist, creating the illusion of a mounted rider. In the Horanai tradition from Towada City, ten horse figures take the stage, while the Ishizawa tradition in Gonohe features seven horses of different coat colors: three black (aoge), one bay (kage), one chestnut (chage), and one buckskin (tsukige).

The performers enter in a single-file column accompanied by taiko drums, fue flutes, and tebiragane hand cymbals. Once in position, they form a circle and proceed through a sequence of choreographed movements. In the Horanai version, the order follows: Niwa-iri (entering the arena), Naori-goma (calming the horses), Hikkayeshi-goma (turning the horses), Sanbō Kōjin (a devotional sequence), and Niwa-biki (leaving the arena). Each movement is executed with vigor and precision, evoking the energy and tension of an actual wild horse roundup.

The Ishizawa tradition in Gonohe presents an especially elaborate three-part structure. The first section features the seven horse dancers performing Niwa-iri, Naori-goma, Hikkayeshi-goma, and Yasumi-goma (resting horses). During the Sanbō Kōshi sequence, three lead horses advance to the center for intricate crossing and circling patterns. The second part, called Nanatsu Dōgu (Seven Implements), features seven performers wielding naginata (halberds), bō (staffs), tachi (long swords), and kine (mallets), performing their own set of choreographed movements while wearing hakama and tasuki sashes. The grand finale brings together the horse dancers and implement performers for a combined display before the final Niwa-biki exit.

Where and When to See Nanbu Koma Odori

The dance is performed at several locations across Aomori Prefecture throughout the late summer and early autumn festival season. In Towada City's Horanai district, the dance is traditionally dedicated at Hōrenji Temple during the Hosshin Matsuri festival, held on the second Saturday of September. The Ishizawa tradition in Gonohe is performed at the Komagata Shrine festival on August 31 and also appears during the Gonohe Festival, which begins on September 1. Various other preservation groups hold performances at local festivals and cultural events throughout the region.

For visitors planning a trip specifically to witness this folk art, the late August to early September period offers the best opportunities. Local tourism offices in Towada City and Gonohe can provide current schedules, as performance dates may vary slightly from year to year. The dance is also occasionally showcased at cultural heritage festivals and regional performing arts events held in larger cities.

Getting There: Access Information

Towada City, the primary home of Nanbu Koma Odori, is accessible from multiple directions. From Tokyo, take the Tohoku Shinkansen to Hachinohe Station or Shichinohe-Towada Station, then transfer to a local bus bound for the Towada area. The journey from Tokyo takes approximately three and a half hours by bullet train. Hōrenji Temple in the Horanai district is located at Maeda 88, Horanai, Towada City, and can be reached by bus from Towada City center. Gonohe, home to the Ishizawa tradition, is accessible via the Aoimori Railway Line or by car from Hachinohe, approximately 30 minutes to the west.

For those traveling by car, Towada City is about 60 kilometers south of Aomori City via the Michinoku Toll Road and National Route 4. The area offers ample parking near major festival venues.

Surrounding Attractions

A visit to see Nanbu Koma Odori can be combined with exploration of some of northern Aomori's most spectacular natural and cultural destinations. Towada City is the gateway to two of Japan's most celebrated natural wonders: Lake Towada, a stunning caldera lake straddling the Aomori-Akita border, and the Oirase Gorge, a 14-kilometer stream trail renowned for its waterfalls, moss-covered rocks, and ancient forests. Both destinations are particularly breathtaking during the autumn foliage season, which coincides with the Koma Odori performance period.

The Towada Art Center (Towada City Museum of Contemporary Art) is another must-visit destination, featuring striking works by internationally renowned artists such as Yayoi Kusama and Ron Mueck displayed along the city's main avenue. In Gonohe, visitors can enjoy the local hot springs at the recently renovated Kuraishi Onsen, visit Komagata Shrine, and sample the town's celebrated horse meat and local beef cuisine. The broader Nanbu region offers historic castle sites, samurai-era temples, and the dramatic Enburi winter festival in Hachinohe, one of the most important folk rituals in the Tohoku region.