Kinjū Budō Kyō: A National Treasure Born from the Silk Road

On a serene island in the Seto Inland Sea, inside the treasure hall of one of Japan's most ancient shrines, lies a mirror that encapsulates over a thousand years of cross-cultural exchange. The Kinjū Budō Kyō (禽獣葡萄鏡), or "Mirror with Birds, Beasts, and Grapevines," is a designated National Treasure of Japan — a white bronze mirror crafted during the Tang Dynasty of China in the 7th century. Its breathtaking reverse face is alive with grape vine arabesques, mythical lions, graceful peacocks, and soaring phoenixes, all cast in extraordinary detail. It is a masterwork that bridges the artistic traditions of East and West, from the vineyards of ancient Persia to the sacred shores of Japan.

What Is the Kinjū Budō Kyō?

The Kinjū Budō Kyō is a large, circular bronze mirror cast from white bronze (an alloy with a high tin content giving it a silvery appearance). Measuring 26.8 centimeters in diameter with a rim thickness of 1.7 centimeters, it is considerably larger than most mirrors of its type. One side was polished to a high reflective sheen for practical use, while the reverse side is adorned with elaborate decorative motifs cast in fine relief.

The mirror belongs to a category known as kaijū budō kyō (海獣葡萄鏡), or "sea-beast grapevine mirrors," which were among the most celebrated types of bronze mirrors produced during the Tang Dynasty (618–907 CE). In China, these mirrors are known as ruìshòu pútáo jìng (瑞獣葡萄鏡, "auspicious beast grapevine mirrors"). Despite the name "sea beasts," the animals depicted are not marine creatures but rather mythical lions (suanni), dragons, phoenixes, and other auspicious beings — the "sea" in the name refers to an ancient legendary horse said to have emerged from the sea.

An Intricate Tapestry of Motifs

The mirror's reverse face is divided into an inner and outer zone, both brimming with intricate artistry. A single, continuous grapevine tendril weaves around the entire composition, its fruits and leaves arranged in harmonious alternation. This vine serves as both the primary decorative motif and the background texture for the figural elements.

At the center sits a crouching lion-shaped knob (known as a kaijū-chū), through which a cord could be threaded to hold or hang the mirror. Surrounding this knob in the inner zone, four pairs of peacocks, phoenixes, and suanni (mythical lion-like creatures) are arranged symmetrically. Between the curling tendrils, small birds and animals frolic in lively poses — a scene of joyful play rendered in miniature.

The outer zone presents a dynamic procession: small birds and beasts alternate in a clockwise circuit, some in flight, others galloping. The entire composition is unified by a masterful sense of rhythm, where the organic flow of the grapevine arabesque harmonizes beautifully with the spirited movement of the creatures.

Why Was It Designated a National Treasure?

The Kinjū Budō Kyō was first designated as an Important Cultural Property (then called a "National Treasure" under the old system) on March 27, 1901, and was elevated to the current National Treasure status on March 31, 1953, under the revised Cultural Properties Protection Act.

Several factors make this mirror exceptional. The quality of its casting is superb — the official designation notes that the casting is remarkably clean, with the orderly grapevine arabesques and the lively, free-moving birds and beasts blending in perfect harmony to create an impression of refined elegance. It is recognized, along with the kaijū budō kyō at Katori Shrine in Chiba Prefecture, as one of the finest surviving examples of this mirror type anywhere in the world.

Beyond its artistic merit, the mirror is also significant as a tangible link in the vast network of cultural exchange along the Silk Road. The grapevine motif originated in the Mediterranean world and traveled east through Persia and Central Asia before being adopted by Chinese craftsmen. The combination of Western botanical motifs with Chinese mythical beasts and casting techniques represents one of the most successful artistic fusions in ancient East-West cultural history.

A Story of Imperial Devotion

According to shrine tradition, this mirror was dedicated to Oyamazumi Shrine by Empress Saimei (594–661 CE) in the 7th century. The occasion was the departure of Ochi no Dairyō Morioki, a local official and shrine priest of the Ochi clan, who set out on an imperial military campaign. Historical sources suggest this was related to the expedition that culminated in the Battle of Baekgang (663 CE), when Japan dispatched forces to the Korean Peninsula.

That a mirror of such extraordinary quality was offered to a shrine on a remote island in the Seto Inland Sea speaks volumes about the importance of Oyamazumi Shrine in ancient Japan. The shrine served as a guardian for seafarers and military campaigns, and its island location placed it along the vital maritime route connecting the capital with western Japan and the Asian continent.

Oyamazumi Shrine: Home of Japan's Greatest Treasure Hall

Oyamazumi Shrine (大山祇神社) stands on Omishima Island, the largest of the islands connected by the famed Shimanami Kaido sea-crossing route. Dedicated to Oyamazumi no Okami — the deity of mountains, the sea, and safe voyaging — this shrine has been a center of worship since at least the 6th century and is the head shrine of over 10,000 affiliated Yamazumi and Mishima shrines throughout Japan.

The shrine's treasure hall is nothing short of extraordinary. It houses 8 National Treasures and 76 Important Cultural Properties, and it is said that approximately 80 percent of all nationally designated weapons and armor in Japan are preserved here. Generations of samurai warriors made pilgrimages to Oyamazumi to pray for victory in battle, and upon their return, they dedicated their finest arms and armor in gratitude — swords scarred from real combat, elegant suits of armor attributed to legendary figures like Minamoto no Yoshitsune, and the remarkable breastplate of Tsuruhime, a 16th-century "samurai princess" who defended the island from invasion.

The Kinjū Budō Kyō is displayed in the treasure hall alongside these treasures, typically exhibited in a standalone glass case that allows visitors to appreciate the mirror's intricate relief work from close range.

The Ancient Camphor Trees and Sacred Grounds

The shrine precinct itself is a deeply atmospheric place. Towering camphor trees, some estimated to be over 2,600 years old, form a living canopy overhead and are designated as a National Natural Monument. The main hall (honden) and worship hall (haiden), both Important Cultural Properties dating from the early Muromachi period, stand amid this ancient grove. A small sacred rice paddy near the gate is the stage for the Otaue Matsuri (Rice Planting Festival) each June, which includes a charming sumo match between a human and a rice spirit — the spirit always wins.

Getting There: The Shimanami Kaido Adventure

Reaching Oyamazumi Shrine is itself an unforgettable journey. The shrine is located on Omishima Island, accessible via the Shimanami Kaido — a spectacular 60-kilometer route of bridges that hops across islands in the Seto Inland Sea, connecting Onomichi in Hiroshima Prefecture with Imabari in Ehime Prefecture. The route is beloved by cyclists worldwide and offers stunning panoramic views of the island-dotted sea.

By bus, you can reach the shrine from JR Imabari Station in approximately 60 minutes, alighting at the "Oyamazumi Jinja-mae" stop. From Hiroshima or Onomichi, the Shimanami Liner express bus also provides access. If driving, exit the Shimanami Kaido at Omishima Interchange. Cycling the Shimanami Kaido and stopping at the shrine is a popular option — the island is roughly midway along the route.

Nearby Attractions

Omishima Island and its surroundings along the Shimanami Kaido offer several worthwhile experiences to complement your visit to the shrine:

• Omishima Museum of Art — a quiet modern art museum across the road from the shrine entrance, with works by contemporary Japanese artists and a lovely coastal setting.
• Tatara Shimanami Park (Michi no Eki) — a popular roadside station with views of the soaring Tatara Bridge, local Setouchi cuisine, and cycling amenities.
• Murakami Kaizoku Museum (Murakami Pirates Museum) — on nearby Oshima Island, this museum tells the story of the Murakami naval clan who controlled the sea lanes of the Seto Inland Sea during the medieval period.
• Shimanami Kaido Cycling — the full route between Onomichi and Imabari is one of the world's top cycling experiences, with dedicated cycling lanes and breathtaking views from each bridge.
• Omishima Maritime Museum — located on the shrine grounds (included in the treasure hall admission), it displays Emperor Showa's marine biology research vessel and Seto Inland Sea specimens.