Kamei Hachiman Shrine Pagoda

A Kamakura-Period Stone Pagoda on a Remote Seto Inland Sea Island

Standing quietly within the grounds of Kamei Hachiman Shrine on Uoshima Island, the Hōkyōintō (宝篋印塔) is a remarkable stone pagoda dating from the late Kamakura period (late 13th to early 14th century). Designated as a nationally Important Cultural Property of Japan, this granite tower rises approximately 227 cm in height — or 247 cm including its base platform — and represents one of the finest examples of medieval Japanese stone craft preserved on a remote island in the Seto Inland Sea.

Uoshima, a tiny fishing island with a population of around 110 people in Kamijima Town, Ehime Prefecture, may seem like an unlikely setting for such a significant cultural treasure. Yet the presence of this pagoda speaks to the deep historical connections between even the most isolated islands of the Seto Inland Sea and the broader currents of Japanese medieval history, religion, and artistry.

What Is a Hōkyōintō?

A Hōkyōintō is a distinctive type of Japanese Buddhist stone pagoda whose origins trace back to ancient India and China. The name derives from the Hōkyōin Darani Sutra (宝篋印陀羅尼経), a Buddhist scripture that teaches the merit of building pagodas to enshrine sacred texts. The pagoda form was transmitted from Song Dynasty China to Japan, where it evolved into a uniquely Japanese style from the mid-Kamakura period onward.

The typical Hōkyōintō consists of several layered components from top to bottom: the sōrin (decorative finial with jewel-shaped tip), the kasa (roof section with distinctive corner ornaments called sumikazari), the tōshin (main body), the kiso (base with decorative panels), and the kidan (foundation platform). These pagodas were erected as memorial towers, grave markers, or merit-generating monuments by the nobility and warrior classes of medieval Japan.

Why It Was Designated as an Important Cultural Property

The Hōkyōintō at Kamei Hachiman Shrine was designated as a nationally Important Cultural Property on March 20, 1954. Several factors contributed to this recognition.

First, the pagoda's form and craftsmanship exhibit the hallmark characteristics of late Kamakura-period stone pagoda construction. The proportions, carving techniques, and decorative elements — including Sanskrit characters (bonji) inscribed on its surface — are consistent with the artistic conventions of that era, making it an important reference for the study of medieval Japanese stone art.

Second, it is remarkable that such a well-preserved example survives on a small, remote island far from the major cultural centers of Kyoto and Nara. This suggests that the Seto Inland Sea islands were not isolated backwaters but were connected to broader networks of religious practice, trade, and cultural exchange during the medieval period.

Third, the pagoda is carved from granite and remains largely intact, with its original components well-preserved despite centuries of exposure to the maritime climate. This state of preservation adds significant archaeological and art-historical value.

The Legend of Shinozuka Iganokami

Local tradition holds that this Hōkyōintō is the grave marker of Shinozuka Iganokami Shigehiro (篠塚伊賀守重広), a renowned warrior of the Nanbokuchō (Northern and Southern Courts) period in the 14th century. Shinozuka served as a close retainer of Nitta Yoshisada, one of the most famous generals of the era, and was counted among the legendary "Four Heavenly Kings of the Nitta Clan." His extraordinary feats of strength and valor are recorded multiple times in the Taiheiki, the epic chronicle of the Nanbokuchō civil wars.

According to historical accounts, after the fall of the Southern Court forces in Shikoku in 1342, Shinozuka fled to an island referred to as "Oki no Shima" in the Taiheiki — widely believed to be Uoshima. The pagoda was originally located at Shinozuka Park on the island before being relocated to its current position within the Kamei Hachiman Shrine grounds. While modern scholarship suggests the pagoda predates Shinozuka's time (it is stylistically dated to the late Kamakura period, before the Nanbokuchō era), the local legend adds a compelling layer of historical narrative to this remarkable monument.

Highlights and What to See

The Hōkyōintō itself is the primary attraction, and visitors should take time to observe its finely carved details up close. Look for the Sanskrit characters inscribed on the pagoda body, which represent Buddhist deities associated with the four cardinal directions. The stepped profile of the roof section and the subtle flare of the corner ornaments are characteristic of the late Kamakura style and distinguish it from pagodas of later periods.

Kamei Hachiman Shrine, which houses the pagoda, is itself a place of great atmosphere. Founded in 1693 (Genroku 6), the shrine features a main hall built entirely of Japanese cypress with a copper-plate roof — a testament to the prosperity and devotion of the island's fishing community in the Edo period. The flat precinct of over 8,000 square meters is impressive given the island's rugged terrain, and the approach from the torii gate along a 100-meter path shaded by camphor and ubame oak trees creates a serene, sacred ambiance.

The shrine also serves as a guardian of maritime safety and protection from misfortune, reflecting the deep relationship between the island's people and the sea.

Uoshima Island: A Hidden Gem of the Seto Inland Sea

Visiting the Hōkyōintō means visiting Uoshima itself, and the island is an experience in its own right. Located about 30 km northeast of Imabari in the Bingo-nada Sea, Uoshima is one of the most remote inhabited islands in the Kamijima island group. With its crystal-clear waters, active fishing culture, and deeply traditional way of life, it offers a glimpse of rural island Japan that few international visitors ever encounter.

The island is famous for debera fishing (a traditional method of catching dried flounder) and octopus pot fishing. Rows of octopus pots lined up at the harbor create a distinctly photogenic scene. Shinozuka Park, where the pagoda once stood, preserves legends of hidden treasure connected to the Murakami Suigun (pirates/naval forces) who once controlled these waters.

Uoshima Tourism Center is the island's only accommodation, offering fresh seafood meals prepared from the daily catch. It serves as a base for visitors exploring the island's cultural heritage and natural beauty.

Surrounding Area and Nearby Attractions

While Uoshima is relatively isolated, the journey to reach it passes through several interesting areas. The Yumeshima Kaidō (Dream Island Highway) connects several islands in the Kamijima group — Iwaki, Ikina, and Yuge — via bridges, offering scenic cycling routes through the Seto Inland Sea. Yuge Island, the main hub for ferries to Uoshima, has its own cultural sites and a maritime college.

For visitors arriving via Innoshima (part of the Shimanami Kaidō cycling route between Hiroshima and Shikoku), the detour to Uoshima adds an adventurous dimension to a broader island-hopping itinerary. The Shimanami Kaidō itself is one of Japan's most celebrated cycling routes, with stunning bridges connecting six islands across the Seto Inland Sea.

On Uoshima, besides the shrine and pagoda, visitors can explore the island's compact fishing village, enjoy panoramic views of the surrounding sea, and experience the unhurried rhythms of island life. The island is particularly beautiful in spring and autumn, when the natural vegetation around the shrine is at its most vibrant.