Ozu Castle

Ozu Castle: A Riverside Fortress with Authentic Edo-Period Turrets

Standing proudly on a hilltop overlooking the Hijikawa River in Ehime Prefecture, Ozu Castle is one of Shikoku's most captivating feudal strongholds. While its four-story keep was faithfully reconstructed in wood in 2004, the castle retains four original Edo-period turrets—Daidokoro Yagura (Kitchen Turret), Kōran Yagura (Balustrade Turret), Owata Yagura (Flax Turret), and Sannomaru Minami Sumi Yagura (Third Bailey South Corner Turret)—all designated as Important Cultural Properties of Japan. Together with the well-preserved castle town below, Ozu Castle offers visitors a rare and authentic glimpse into the life of a feudal domain.

Historical Background

The origins of Ozu Castle date back to 1331, when Utsunomiya Toyofusa, a provincial governor of the Kamakura period, built a fortification on Jizōgatake hill at the confluence of the Hijikawa and Kumekawa rivers. The site commanded key roads linking northern and southern Iyo Province, making it a strategic stronghold for centuries.

During the late Sengoku period, the castle passed through several hands before Tōdō Takatora—one of Japan's most renowned castle architects—undertook a major reconstruction around 1595, transforming it into a fully developed early-modern castle. Following him, Wakisaka Yasuharu continued the construction of the keep and other structures after transferring from Sumoto in 1609. It was also during this era that the castle's name changed from "Ōtsu" to "Ōzu."

In 1617, Katō Sadayasu entered the castle, and the Katō clan governed the 60,000-koku Ōzu Domain for the remainder of the Edo period. After the Meiji Restoration, most castle buildings were dismantled, and the keep itself was demolished in 1888 due to deterioration. However, four corner turrets survived demolition and were preserved by dedicated local residents.

Why These Turrets Are Designated as Important Cultural Properties

All four surviving turrets at Ozu Castle were designated as Important Cultural Properties on June 18, 1957. Although none are from the castle's original construction, they represent invaluable examples of late Edo-period military architecture and serve as precious remnants that convey the castle's former grandeur.

The turrets are significant because they illustrate the variety of defensive and functional roles that castle towers played. From the Kitchen Turret's unique cooking facilities to the Balustrade Turret's extraordinarily rare exterior veranda, each structure demonstrates distinct architectural features seldom found elsewhere in Japan. Their survival through the wholesale demolition of the Meiji era makes them especially important to the study of Japanese castle architecture.

Architectural Highlights of the Three Main Turrets

Daidokoro Yagura (Kitchen Turret)

The largest turret within the castle complex, the Daidokoro Yagura was rebuilt in 1859 after the great Ansei earthquake of 1857 severely damaged it. This two-story, hip-and-gable roofed structure features hon-gawarabuki (formal tile roofing) and served the practical function of a kitchen during sieges. About one-third of the ground floor is an earthen-floored cooking area, with lattice windows for smoke ventilation. The second floor features a decorative katō-mado (cusped window) set within a chidori-hafu gable. Hidden square loopholes for firearms are concealed within the walls connecting to the keep via a watari-yagura corridor. The turret underwent full disassembly restoration in 1970.

Kōran Yagura (Balustrade Turret)

Rebuilt in 1860, the Kōran Yagura is the most architecturally distinctive of the castle's turrets. Positioned at the main bailey entrance and connected to the keep by a corridor turret to the north, it features an exterior veranda (mawari-en) with ornamental giboshi-topped balustrades on its upper story—an extremely rare feature for a turret. Among surviving castle structures in Japan, the only comparable example is the Uto Yagura at Kumamoto Castle. This architectural embellishment indicates that the Kōran Yagura held a rank second only to the keep itself. The roofline includes a noki-kara-hafu (eave cusped gable), and the southwest corner has a hakama-goshi-gata stone-dropping chute. After the Ansei earthquake, its exterior walls were changed from shitami-itabari (weatherboard cladding) to white plaster.

Owata Yagura (Flax Turret)

The Owata Yagura was rebuilt in 1843 and stands independently on the eastern edge of the former second bailey, projecting out over the Hijikawa River embankment. It is a compact two-story turret with hon-gawarabuki roofing. Its most notable feature is a hakama-goshi-gata stone-dropping device at the northeastern corner, part of which doubles as a window—a clever dual-purpose design. Two ridgepole tags (munafuda) are preserved as attached cultural properties. The turret underwent disassembly restoration in 1959, during which the stone walls were raised by 2.6 meters as a flood-prevention measure.

The Reconstructed Keep and Castle Grounds

In 2004, Ozu Castle's four-story keep was reconstructed entirely in wood—a pioneering achievement in postwar Japan and the tallest timber-reconstructed keep in the country at 19.15 meters. The reconstruction was based on Meiji-era photographs and an Edo-period wooden scale model (tenshu hinagata) that preserved detailed information about the keep's internal structure. Funded largely by citizen donations, the project is a testament to the deep affection the people of Ozu hold for their castle.

The keep is built in the fukugō-renketsu-shiki (compound-connected) style, linking to the Kōran Yagura on the north and the Daidokoro Yagura on the west via corridor turrets. Inside, a central pillar runs through the structure, and the second floor features an open atrium. From the top floor, visitors enjoy a 360-degree panorama of the castle town, the Hijikawa River, and the surrounding mountains.

Visitor Information

Ozu Castle is open year-round from 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM (last entry at 4:30 PM). Admission to the castle is ¥550 for adults and ¥220 for children (junior high school and younger). A combined ticket with Garyu Sanso is available for ¥880, or a three-facility ticket including Bansenso for ¥1,100. Children aged five and under enter free when accompanied by a guardian. Visitors aged 65 and over who reside in Ozu City also receive free admission.

From JR Iyo-Ōzu Station, the castle is approximately a 5-minute taxi ride or 20–30 minutes on foot. The city's circular bus "Gururin Ozu" runs from the station to the "Ozu-jō mae" stop in about 10 minutes, followed by a 5-minute walk. By car, the castle is about 10 minutes from the Ozu-Kōnan Interchange on the Matsuyama Expressway. Free parking is available at the Ozu City Tourist Parking Lot No. 1, and paid parking is available at the Civic Hall parking lot.

Surrounding Attractions

The castle town of Ozu, often called the "Little Kyoto of Iyo," offers a wealth of sightseeing within easy walking distance. Garyu Sanso, a masterpiece of sukiya-style architecture built by Meiji-era merchant Kawachi Torajirō, is located along the Hijikawa and holds Important Cultural Property and National Place of Scenic Beauty designations. It was awarded one star in the Michelin Green Guide Japan.

Ohanahan-dōri, a picturesque lane lined with white-walled storehouses and former samurai residences, preserves the Edo-period town layout and was the filming location for the NHK television drama "Ohanahan" in 1966. Nearby, the Ozu Red Brick Building (Ozu Akarenga-kan) and the retro-themed Pokopen Yokochō market add further charm to the area.

In summer, visitors can experience Ozu's traditional ukai (cormorant fishing) on the Hijikawa River—one of only three locations in Japan where this ancient practice continues. The Sukunahikona Onsen "Garyū no Yu" near Garyu Sanso offers hot spring baths overlooking the river, perfect for relaxing after a day of sightseeing.

The castle also offers unique experiences such as the "Castle Stay" luxury overnight accommodation within the keep and turrets, and a monthly demonstration of the Ozu Domain Musket Corps held on the third Saturday of each month.