Old Man and Old Woman Cedars at Suwa Shrine

The Okina-Sugi and Ouna-Sugi of Suwa Shrine: Japan's Only Surviving Pair of "Grandfather and Grandmother" Cedars

Deep in the Abukuma highlands of Fukushima Prefecture, two of Japan's most extraordinary trees stand side by side at the entrance to a quiet Shinto shrine. The Okina-Sugi (Grandfather Cedar) and Ouna-Sugi (Grandmother Cedar) of Suwa Shrine soar to nearly fifty meters in height, their crowns touching in the sky like an elderly couple leaning together. Designated a National Natural Monument in 1937, this magnificent pair is believed to have been planted over twelve centuries ago and is the only surviving "grandfather and grandmother" pair among Japan's nationally designated cedar monuments. For travelers seeking an encounter with living history, ancient legend, and the quiet majesty of rural Japan, few destinations rival this hidden treasure in the town of Ono.

An Ancient Legend Rooted in the Nara Period

The story of these two cedars begins in the late 8th century, during a turbulent chapter of Japanese history. According to the founding legend preserved at Suwa Shrine, in the year 780 CE—during what is now called the Hōki Rebellion—the imperial court dispatched the courtier Fujiwara no Tsugutada to suppress an uprising in the northern frontier. As he marched his troops through the Nakoso Barrier into the wild Mutsu Province, he paused at the village of Natsui to establish a camp.

Here, with the support of local chieftains who rallied to his cause, Tsugutada built a small shrine, dedicated it to the deity Suwa Daimyōjin, and personally planted two young cedar saplings. He prayed for victory before continuing eastward into hostile territory. Those two saplings, the legend tells, are the same trees that visitors meet today—now towering far above the shrine grounds after more than one thousand two hundred years of growth.

Whether the trees are exactly that old is a matter of gentle debate. Botanical estimates range from roughly 1,100 to 1,200 years, and some observers feel the trunks may be somewhat younger. What is beyond doubt is that they are ancient, monumental, and woven inseparably into the cultural memory of this part of Japan.

Why These Trees Were Designated a National Natural Monument

The two cedars were formally designated a National Natural Monument on December 21, 1937. The decision followed an on-site survey conducted the previous year by the eminent botanist Miyoshi Manabu, a pioneer of Japan's natural-heritage preservation movement, who personally measured the trees in October 1936.

What sets these cedars apart is not simply their size, though each tree is among the largest cedars in Japan as an individual specimen. The truly remarkable quality is that two such enormous cedars stand together as a perfectly matched pair—nearly identical in height, in girth, and in vigor—with no visible damage or signs of decline despite their great age. No other pair like this exists among Japan's designated cedars.

Across Japan, paired ancient trees are often affectionately called "husband and wife" or "grandfather and grandmother." Among nationally designated cedars, only three sites carry the "grandfather" name: the Haguro Jiji-Sugi in Yamagata, the Aragawa Jiji-Sugi in Ibaraki, and these cedars in Ono Town. At the first two sites, however, the "grandmother" tree has long since been lost. Only here at Suwa Shrine do both the Okina (Grandfather) and the Ouna (Grandmother) still stand—a fact that makes this site genuinely unique in all of Japan.

Imposing Dimensions That Astonish Every Visitor

The numbers convey something of the trees' presence, though no figures can substitute for standing beneath them.

• Okina-Sugi (Grandfather, east side): height 48.5 m, trunk circumference 9.2 m, root girth approximately 10.6 m
• Ouna-Sugi (Grandmother, west side): height 47.8 m, trunk circumference 9.5 m, root girth approximately 10.85 m
• Distance between the two trunks at the base: about 1.37 m

A sacred shimenawa rope, hung from one trunk to the other, links the pair and marks them as sacred. High above, their crowns merge so completely that from certain angles they appear as a single immense tree.

The Charms and Highlights of a Visit

Passing under the torii gate from the prefectural road, visitors first walk along a quiet approach lined with younger cedars. As the path rises toward the stone steps of the shrine, the two giants come into view—straight, unblemished, and almost impossibly tall against the sky. Photographers often note an optical illusion as one approaches: the sheer scale of the trunks defeats normal perspective, and it becomes difficult to tell which tree stands closer.

Because the shrine sits on a gentle slope, the roots of the trees emerge dramatically from the earth. To protect the soil and the trees from compaction by foot traffic, the narrow space between the two trunks is now closed to passage. Visitors are asked to view the pair from the steps below, then circle to the shrine hall above for a different perspective. The site is also listed among the Hundred Selected Green Landscapes of Fukushima, and is locally beloved as a place to pray for marital harmony, longevity, and good fortune in matters of the heart.

What to See in the Surrounding Area

The cedars are an ideal anchor for a leisurely day exploring the Abukuma highlands. Ono Town and the surrounding region offer several attractions within easy reach.

Natsuigawa Senbon-Zakura

Along the Natsui River, which flows just south of the shrine, roughly one thousand cherry trees burst into bloom each spring, creating one of Fukushima's most celebrated cherry blossom corridors. Late April is generally the peak season in this highland location.

Tōdōsan Manpukuji Temple

Founded in 807 CE by the famed monk Tokuitsu Daishi, this mountain temple sits on the slopes of Mount Tōdō and has long been revered for its blessings on livestock and protection. Its stone steps, deliberately built wide enough for horses to climb, hint at a centuries-old bond between people, animals, and faith.

Ono's Cultural Heritage Hall and Kaguya-Hime Legends

Ono Town is also said to be one of the birthplaces of the legendary Princess Kaguya, heroine of "The Tale of the Bamboo Cutter," one of Japan's oldest stories. Small museums and signposted walking trails throughout the town interpret this folklore for visitors.