Yasuda Family Main Building

Yasuda Family Residence: A Former Inn on the Historic Nakasendo Road

Standing quietly along the old Nakasendo highway in Kakamigahara City, Gifu Prefecture, the Yasuda Family Residence Main House (安田家住宅主屋) is a Registered Tangible Cultural Property that preserves the atmosphere of a bygone era. Once a bustling travelers' inn known as "Wakatakeya" (若竹屋), this early Showa-period wooden townhouse forms part of a remarkable row of historic buildings that together evoke the spirit of the Unuma-juku post town — the 52nd station on the great Nakasendo road connecting Edo (Tokyo) and Kyoto.

For international visitors drawn to the quieter, more authentic side of Japanese history, the Yasuda Family Residence offers a rare opportunity to see a traditional machiya-style building in its original streetscape, surrounded by fellow heritage structures that collectively paint a vivid picture of life on one of Japan's most important historical highways.

History of the Yasuda Family Residence

The Yasuda family once operated a hatago (旅籠), a traditional Japanese inn that provided accommodation and meals for travelers journeying along the Nakasendo. Their establishment was known by the trade name "Wakatakeya" (若竹屋), meaning "Young Bamboo House" — a name that evoked freshness and vitality, qualities that would have been most welcome to weary travelers.

The current main house was built around 1930 (Showa 5), making it a relatively modern addition to the streetscape. However, the building was deliberately designed to harmonize with the older structures around it, matching their eave heights and traditional facades. This thoughtful approach to architectural continuity means that the Yasuda residence blends seamlessly into the historical townscape, helping to preserve the visual character of Unuma-juku as it appeared during the Edo period.

Architectural Features

The Yasuda Family Residence is a two-story wooden structure with a distinctive tsushi-nikai (厨子二階) design — a style where the second floor has notably low ceilings, creating a characteristic compressed upper story that is typical of traditional townhouses along Japan's historic highways.

The building features a kirizuma-zukuri (切妻造) gable roof covered with san-gawara (桟瓦) pantiles, oriented in the hirairiri (平入) style with the entrance on the long side facing the road. The total building area is approximately 128 square meters. The interior follows a seikeiyonma-dori (整形四間取) layout — a formal arrangement of four 8-tatami rooms in a symmetrical grid pattern — with an earthen-floored doma (土間) on the eastern side, which historically served as a workspace and entryway.

The front facade is finished in nezumi-shikkui (鼠漆喰), a gray-toned lime plaster that gives the building its refined, understated appearance. Wooden lattice screens (kōshi) adorn the window openings on both floors, filtering light while providing ventilation and privacy. A tiled eave (hisashi) extends over the front entrance, providing shelter from rain and sun.

Why It Was Designated a Registered Tangible Cultural Property

The Yasuda Family Residence was registered as a national Tangible Cultural Property (登録有形文化財) on May 15, 2007. Japan's cultural property registration system is designed to protect buildings that are at least 50 years old and serve as regional landmarks or demonstrate outstanding design and construction techniques.

The key reason for the Yasuda residence's designation lies in its role within the broader streetscape. Standing alongside other registered cultural properties such as the Sakai Family Residence, the Umeda Shoji Family Residence, and the Myogaya Umeda Family Residence, the Yasuda house forms part of a continuous row of traditional townhouses that collectively preserve the historic landscape of Unuma-juku. Even though the building dates from the early Showa period, its careful design — with matching eave lines, traditional facade elements, and harmonious proportions — ensures that it contributes authentically to the post town's visual coherence.

Unuma-juku: The Post Town Setting

To fully appreciate the Yasuda Family Residence, it helps to understand the broader context of Unuma-juku. This post town was the 52nd of the 69 stations along the Nakasendo, one of the five major highways (Gokaido) established by the Tokugawa shogunate to connect key cities across Japan. According to records from 1843, Unuma-juku had a population of 246 people, 68 houses, one honjin (main inn for feudal lords), one waki-honjin (secondary inn), and 25 hatago (travelers' inns).

Today, the town has been carefully restored and preserved. Visitors can explore the reconstructed Waki-honjin (secondary inn) of the Sakai family, which is open to the public free of charge. The renowned haiku poet Matsuo Basho is said to have stayed at this very waki-honjin on three occasions between 1684 and 1688, composing poetry inspired by the hospitality he received. The Unuma-juku Machiya-kan (Town House Museum), housed in a restored former inn called "Kinuya," showcases traditional architectural features and local historical artifacts.

Walking along the main street, visitors will also notice restored water channels, historical notice boards (kosatsuba), boundary markers, and the relocated Iron Gate from the former Ogaki Castle — all contributing to an immersive journey back in time.

Highlights and Points of Interest

The Yasuda Family Residence itself is a private dwelling and not open for interior viewing, but its beautifully preserved exterior is best appreciated as part of a leisurely stroll through the Unuma-juku historic district. Here are the key highlights:

• The elegant gray plaster facade with traditional wooden lattice screens, exemplifying the refined aesthetic of Nakasendo townhouses
• The harmonious row of heritage buildings stretching along the old highway, including the Sakai, Umeda, and Myogaya Umeda family residences
• The restored Waki-honjin featuring exhibits on Matsuo Basho's visits and Edo-period travel culture (free admission)
• The Machiya-kan Town House Museum with its traditional garden, box staircase, and historical artifacts from the post town era
• Seasonal beauty: cherry blossoms in spring and colorful foliage in autumn frame the historic streetscape magnificently

Nearby Attractions

The Unuma-juku area is ideally positioned near several major attractions that make for an excellent day of cultural exploration:

Inuyama Castle (National Treasure) — Just across the Kiso River in Aichi Prefecture, Inuyama Castle boasts one of Japan's oldest surviving castle towers, designated as a National Treasure. The panoramic views from the top floor overlooking the Kiso River and the Nobi Plain are spectacular. The charming castle town below offers shops, cafes, and the photogenic Sanko Inari Shrine.

Kiso River Cormorant Fishing (Kisogawa Ukai) — From June to October, visitors can witness the ancient tradition of ukai (cormorant fishing) on the Kiso River, with the illuminated Inuyama Castle as a stunning backdrop. A daytime version of this 1,300-year-old practice is also available — the only one in Japan.

Ninomiya Shrine — Located directly across the street from the Sakai Family Residence, this shrine's approach ascends a hillside and offers a quiet space for reflection within the post town.

Kakamigahara Aerospace Museum — For those interested in modern history, this museum in Kakamigahara City showcases Japan's aviation heritage with an impressive collection of aircraft.

Visiting Information

The Unuma-juku historic district, including the area around the Yasuda Family Residence, is freely accessible for walking at any time. The nearby Waki-honjin and Machiya-kan are open from 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM, closed on Mondays (or the following day if Monday is a holiday), the day after national holidays, and from December 28 to January 4. Admission to both facilities is free.

A free parking lot for visitors is available near the western entrance to the post town district. The area is compact enough to explore comfortably on foot in one to two hours, though visitors who wish to thoroughly explore the Waki-honjin and Machiya-kan should allow additional time.

Access

The Yasuda Family Residence is located at 1-528 Unuma Nishimachi, Kakamigahara City, Gifu Prefecture. Several rail stations provide convenient access:

• Meitetsu Kakamigahara Line "Unumajuku" Station — approximately 10 minutes on foot
• Meitetsu Inuyama Line / Kakamigahara Line "Shin-Unuma" Station — approximately 20 minutes on foot
• JR Takayama Line "Unuma" Station — approximately 17 minutes on foot
• Kakamigahara City Fureai Bus: Unuma Line / East-West Morning-Evening Route, alight at "Unuma Nishimachi" bus stop — approximately 4 minutes on foot

From Nagoya, the Meitetsu Inuyama Line provides direct service to Shin-Unuma Station in approximately 30 minutes, making Unuma-juku an easy and rewarding half-day excursion from the city.