A Vermillion Jewel Rising from Onomichi's Sacred Grounds

As you approach Onomichi harbor from the Seto Inland Sea, one of the first architectural marvels to catch your eye is the striking vermillion pagoda of Jodo-ji Temple. This two-storied Tahoto pagoda, designated as a National Treasure, has stood as a beacon of Buddhist faith and architectural excellence for nearly 700 years. Built in 1328 during the late Kamakura period, it represents one of Japan's three finest examples of tahoto architecture, alongside those at Ishiyama-ji Temple and Kongosammai-in on Mount Koya.

The pagoda's unique beauty lies in its harmonious blend of geometric forms - a square first story supporting a circular second story, crowned by an elegantly curved roof that seems to float against the sky. This architectural poetry in wood and tile has inspired countless artists, photographers, and pilgrims who journey to this historic port town in Hiroshima Prefecture.

Understanding the Tahoto: A Uniquely Japanese Buddhist Innovation

While pagodas can be found throughout Asia, the two-story tahoto is a distinctly Japanese creation, originally developed for Esoteric Buddhist temples. The name "tahoto" literally means "many-jeweled pagoda," referring to the precious teachings of Buddhism it symbolically contains. Unlike the more common five-story pagodas that evolved from Indian stupas, the tahoto represents a sophisticated architectural synthesis that emerged during Japan's medieval period.

Jodo-ji's tahoto stands 20.5 meters tall, its proportions carefully calculated to create visual harmony. The lower story features a 3x3 ken layout (a traditional Japanese measurement system), while the upper story transitions to a circular plan - a challenging architectural feat that required exceptional craftsmanship to execute. The pagoda's hongawarabuki (traditional tile) roof adds both durability and aesthetic appeal, its weight carefully distributed through an intricate system of brackets and beams.

Architectural Mastery and Sacred Art

The pagoda's exterior beauty is matched by its remarkable interior. At its heart sits an image of Dainichi Nyorai (the Cosmic Buddha), the central deity in Shingon Buddhism. The interior walls feature exquisite paintings of the Eight Patriarchs of Shingon Buddhism, creating a sacred mandala-like space that represents the Buddhist cosmos. These colorful murals, preserved for centuries, demonstrate the high level of artistic achievement during the Kamakura period.

The structural details reveal the sophistication of medieval Japanese carpentry. The first story employs a two-stepped bracket system (futatesaki), while the upper story uses a more complex four-stepped system (yotesaki). The central pillar features elaborate kaerumata (frog-leg struts) and kibana (decorative nose pieces) with intricate carvings that showcase the craftsmen's skill. During restoration work in 1936, workers discovered numerous sutra scrolls and religious artifacts hidden within the pagoda's finial, revealing its role as both an architectural monument and a repository of sacred texts.

Why It Became a National Treasure

The designation of Jodo-ji's tahoto as a National Treasure reflects its exceptional historical and artistic value. Built in 1328 (the first year of the Gentoku era), it represents the culmination of Kamakura period architectural techniques. The pagoda survived numerous natural disasters, wars, and the passage of time with its original structure largely intact, making it an invaluable example of medieval Japanese architecture.

What makes this pagoda particularly significant is its role in the broader cultural landscape of Onomichi. The structure was rebuilt after a devastating fire in 1325, funded by wealthy local merchants including the couple Doren and Dosei. This reflects Onomichi's historical importance as a prosperous port town where maritime trade created the wealth necessary to support such ambitious religious architecture. The pagoda stands not just as a religious monument, but as a testament to the economic and cultural vitality of medieval Onomichi.

Experiencing the Pagoda's Timeless Beauty

Visitors today can appreciate the tahoto from multiple perspectives, each offering its own rewards. From the temple grounds, the pagoda's vermillion lacquer creates a stunning contrast against the blue sky and green mountainside. The slightly upturned eaves seem to lift the structure skyward, while the bronze finial catches the sunlight, creating an almost ethereal effect during the golden hours of sunrise and sunset.

The pagoda is particularly photogenic during cherry blossom season when pink sakura petals frame its red form, and in autumn when the surrounding maple trees turn brilliant shades of orange and gold. Many visitors find that circumambulating the pagoda - a traditional Buddhist practice - offers a meditative experience, allowing them to appreciate the structure's perfect symmetry and changing perspectives.

For those interested in Buddhist art, special viewing opportunities are occasionally available to see the interior paintings and statue, though these require advance arrangements with the temple.

Jodo-ji Temple: A Treasury of Cultural Properties

The tahoto is just one element of Jodo-ji Temple's remarkable collection of cultural treasures. Founded in 616 by Prince Shotoku according to temple tradition, Jodo-ji has been a center of Buddhist learning and practice for over 1,400 years. The temple complex includes the Main Hall (also a National Treasure from 1327), which showcases an eclectic architectural style combining Heian period Japanese elements with Chinese influences introduced during the Kamakura period.

Other significant structures include the Amida Hall and the Mountain Gate, both designated as Important Cultural Properties. The temple grounds themselves are recognized as a National Cultural Property, one of only two temple precincts in Japan to receive this comprehensive designation. The temple also houses the Roteki-an tea house, said to have been relocated from Toyotomi Hideyoshi's Momoyama Castle, offering visitors a glimpse into the refined tea culture of Japan's feudal period.

Exploring Onomichi and Surroundings

Onomichi itself is a destination that rewards exploration. Known as the "town of slopes and literature," it features a network of narrow alleyways, stone steps, and hillside temples that have inspired numerous films, novels, and artworks. The Temple Walk (Onomichi Temple Walk) connects 25 temples across 2.5 kilometers, with Jodo-ji serving as the eastern anchor of this spiritual journey.

From Jodo-ji's Okunoin (inner sanctuary) at the summit of Mt. Jodo-ji, visitors can enjoy panoramic views of the Onomichi Channel and the islands of the Seto Inland Sea. This viewpoint is considered one of Onomichi's most iconic vistas, especially beautiful at sunset when the water turns golden and the distant islands fade into silhouette.

The area is also famous for Onomichi Ramen, a local specialty featuring a soy sauce-based broth flavored with small fish from the Seto Inland Sea, topped with pork and bamboo shoots. After visiting the temple, many visitors enjoy this regional delicacy at one of the many ramen shops near the station.

For cycling enthusiasts, Onomichi serves as the mainland starting point for the Shimanami Kaido, a 70-kilometer cycling route that crosses six islands via a series of impressive bridges, offering spectacular views and a unique way to experience the Seto Inland Sea region.