Tanaka Photo Studio

Tanaka Photo Studio: A Whimsical Architectural Gem in Rural Hiroshima

Tucked away in the quiet town of Kisa in Miyoshi City, Hiroshima Prefecture, stands a building that seems to belong to another world entirely. Tanaka Photo Studio (田中写真館) is a three-story Western-style wooden structure that has captivated locals and visitors alike since its completion in 1928. With its playful façade featuring a Kaiser mustache window motif and an elegant entrance crowned by a gently curved roof, this registered tangible cultural property is a testament to the creative ambitions of rural Japan during the early Showa period.

A Bold Vision in a Small Town

In 1928, at a time when Japan was rapidly modernizing and Western architectural styles were spreading across the nation's cities, an audacious building project took shape in the small post town of Kisa. A local master builder named Yoshikawa Soichi (吉川惣一) designed and constructed Tanaka Photo Studio — a three-story wooden building with one basement level, covering a building area of 98 square meters. The structure was intended to serve as a photography studio, and Yoshikawa poured his creative vision into every detail of its design.

What makes this building truly remarkable is how it blends Western architectural vocabulary with a distinctly personal, almost whimsical sensibility. The entrance portico features a mukuri (gently convex) roof — a traditional Japanese roofing curve — supported by classical columns adorned with decorative capitals. Above the entrance, the pediment showcases a pair of twin windows shaped to evoke the upturned curls of a Kaiser mustache, the iconic facial hair style popularized by German Emperor Wilhelm II. This playful yet sophisticated design choice immediately set the building apart from anything else in the region.

Why It Was Designated a Cultural Property

Tanaka Photo Studio was registered as a national tangible cultural property (registered tangible cultural property — building) on December 12, 1997. The registration recognized the building's distinctive architectural character and its significance as a rare example of creative Western-style architecture designed and built by a local craftsman in a rural setting.

The building stands out for several reasons. Its wooden three-story construction with mortar-plastered exterior walls represents a type of vernacular Western-style architecture that emerged across Japan during the late Taisho and early Showa periods. The highly original decorative elements — particularly the Kaiser mustache twin windows and the classical column entrance with its curved Japanese-style roof — demonstrate how local builders freely interpreted and adapted Western motifs in their own imaginative ways. The fact that it drew widespread attention from the moment of its completion and has remained a beloved symbol of Kisa for nearly a century further underscores its cultural value.

Highlights and Architectural Charm

The most eye-catching feature of Tanaka Photo Studio is undoubtedly the pair of windows on the second floor, set within the triangular pediment. These twin arched windows are designed to resemble the swept-up curls of a handlebar mustache — a delightfully unexpected decorative choice that gives the entire building a sense of personality and humor. This motif, inspired by the fashion of the early 20th century European aristocracy, feels both cosmopolitan and charmingly out of place in rural Hiroshima.

The entrance below is equally striking. A small portico is defined by round columns with ornamental capitals, lending the ground floor a touch of classical European elegance. Yet the roof above these columns curves gently upward in a mukuri shape — a subtle nod to traditional Japanese architectural sensibilities that softens the Western formality with an organic, almost playful warmth.

The building's three-story height was itself remarkable for a small town like Kisa in the late 1920s. The third floor, designed to capture abundant natural light for photographic purposes, reflects the practical requirements of the studio's original function. Even today, the building's distinctive silhouette rises above its surroundings, a landmark visible from the main street running through the historic town center.

The Town of Kisa: A Historic Post Town with Cultural Depth

Kisa (吉舎町) has a rich history stretching back to medieval times, when it was governed by the Wachi clan for roughly 200 years. During the Edo period, it flourished as a post station on the routes connecting the San'in (Sea of Japan) coast and the San'yo (Inland Sea) coast. The town's name is said to derive from a legend about the exiled Emperor Go-Toba, who reportedly praised the area as a "fine resting place" (yoki yadori) during his journey to Oki in the 13th century.

Today, Kisa is part of Miyoshi City and retains a quiet, unhurried atmosphere. The famed Japanese painter Okuda Genso was born here, and the town is home to the Art Museum Art Ai Kisa, which features his works. The annual Kisa Fureai Festival in August illuminates the Basen River with approximately 5,000 handmade paper lanterns, creating a magical spectacle. Visitors will also find medieval castle ruins, historic temples like Daijiji with its Muromachi-period hall, and the Xa104 community information center showcasing local products including artisan denim goods.

Surrounding Attractions

Miyoshi City and the broader region offer a wealth of experiences for visitors exploring beyond Tanaka Photo Studio. The Miyoshi Winery, one of the few in the Chugoku region, offers tours of its underground cellars and tastings. The historic Izumo Kaido road that once passed through Kisa connected the Inland Sea port of Onomichi with the sacred Izumo region, and traces of this ancient thoroughfare can still be followed through the town.

Nature lovers will appreciate the Kisa Kawazakana no Sato Shinsui Park along the Basen River, a peaceful riverside green space perfect for a stroll. For those interested in deeper historical exploration, the ruins of Nantenzan Castle and the Sangoku Burial Mound offer glimpses into the region's medieval and ancient past. The broader Miyoshi area is also known for its atmospheric morning mist that fills the basin, creating dreamlike landscapes especially in autumn.