The Accidental Discovery That Changed Japanese Archaeology

In August 1975, on a peaceful hillside overlooking the Pacific Ocean in Hakodate, Hokkaido, a local housewife named Ae Koita was harvesting potatoes when her hoe struck something unusual. As she carefully brushed away the soil, human-like eyes and a nose emerged from the earth. This heart-stopping moment marked the discovery of what would become Hokkaido's first and only National Treasure - a 3,500-year-old hollow clay figurine now affectionately known as "Kakku."

The discovery at the Chobonaino Site transformed our understanding of Late Jomon period artistry and spiritual culture. This remarkable artifact, standing 41.5 centimeters tall and weighing just 1.745 kilograms, represents the pinnacle of prehistoric Japanese ceramic technology and artistic expression.

A Masterpiece of Ancient Craftsmanship

What makes this hollow clay figurine truly extraordinary is its sophisticated construction and preservation. Created during the Late Jomon period (approximately 1500-1000 BC), the figurine demonstrates remarkable technical skill with walls as thin as just a few millimeters in some places - an astonishing achievement for prehistoric pottery.

The figurine's surface is adorned with three distinct types of decoration: ribbed bands, cord impressions, and circular patterns. These intricate designs cover most of the body, with particular attention paid to what appears to be clothing - possibly a cutoff top and trouser-like garments with elaborate patterns. The chin features a stippled design that scholars interpret as either a beard or ritual tattooing, giving the figure a somewhat masculine appearance despite debate about its gender.

Standing with slightly bent knees and connected legs featuring a mysterious opening between them, the figurine cannot stand on its own - suggesting it may have been designed for specific ritual purposes rather than display. Traces of black lacquer on the beard area and red pigment on the legs indicate the entire figure may once have been painted in vibrant colors.

The Path to National Treasure Status

The figurine's journey to recognition was as remarkable as its discovery. Initially designated as an Important Cultural Property in 1979, it spent over 30 years stored in a safety deposit box within the vault of Minamikayabe Town Hall - earning it the unfortunate nickname of being "imprisoned" for three decades due to lack of proper display facilities.

In 2007, the figurine achieved the highest level of cultural recognition when it was designated as Hokkaido's first National Treasure. This elevation coincided with renewed archaeological investigations at the Chobonaino Site in 2006, which confirmed the figurine had been deliberately buried in a small pit within a larger cemetery complex, complete with jade pendants and lacquered hairpins.

The affectionate nickname "Kakku" was chosen through a public competition, combining the character "Ka" (茅) from the discovery location Minamikayabe with "ku" (空) meaning hollow. The winner of the naming competition received a year's supply of ma-konbu seaweed, a local specialty.

International Recognition and Diplomatic Service

Kakku's importance extends far beyond Japan's borders. In 2008, the figurine was specially selected to "attend" the G8 Summit held in Toyako, Hokkaido. Displayed in the hotel where world leaders gathered, Kakku served as a representative of the Jomon people who lived in harmony with nature for over 10,000 years - a powerful message for a summit focused on environmental and climate change issues.

The figurine has also graced international museums, including the Smithsonian (1992) and the British Museum, where it was featured in "The Power of Dogu" exhibition (2009). This groundbreaking show, dedicated entirely to dogu figurines, attracted 120,000 visitors over two months, introducing global audiences to the sophistication of Jomon culture.

These international appearances have established Kakku as a cultural ambassador, demonstrating that Japan's prehistoric peoples created art of universal appeal and significance, comparable to any ancient civilization worldwide.

Visiting Kakku at the Hakodate Jomon Culture Center

Today, Kakku resides in a specially designed exhibition room at the Hakodate Jomon Culture Center, where lighting mimics moonlight to evoke the atmosphere of the Jomon period. The center, which opened in 2011, was specifically built to provide a proper home for this National Treasure and other significant artifacts from Hakodate's Jomon sites.

The museum offers much more than just viewing the figurine. Visitors can explore over 1,500 artifacts from various Jomon sites, participate in hands-on activities like miniature pottery making and Jomon pendant crafting, and learn about the sophisticated culture that flourished here for thousands of years. The center also serves as a gateway to the nearby UNESCO World Heritage sites.

Adjacent to the center is the Roadside Station "Jomon Roman Minamikayabe," unique as Japan's only roadside station housing a National Treasure. Here, visitors can purchase local specialties and Jomon-themed souvenirs, making it a perfect stop for both cultural enrichment and practical travel needs.

Exploring the UNESCO World Heritage Sites Nearby

The Hakodate Jomon Culture Center serves as an ideal base for exploring two UNESCO World Heritage sites that are part of the "Jomon Prehistoric Sites in Northern Japan" inscription (2021).

Just adjacent to the center is the Kakinoshima Site, spanning an impressive 6,000 years of continuous habitation from 7,000 to 1,000 BC. This site features Japan's largest earthwork mound and has yielded over 200,000 artifacts, including clay tablets bearing children's footprints - touching evidence of parental love transcending millennia.

A 10-minute drive away lies the Ofune Site, a Middle Jomon period settlement (3,500-2,000 BC) famous for its remarkably deep pit dwellings, some exceeding 2 meters in depth. These structures, along with evidence of whale and sea otter consumption, demonstrate the sophisticated maritime adaptation of Jomon peoples.

Both sites offer guided tours and interpretive programs, allowing visitors to walk in the footsteps of the ancient Jomon people while enjoying spectacular views of the Pacific Ocean that sustained these communities for millennia.

Planning Your Visit

The Hakodate Jomon Culture Center and its treasure Kakku are located in the Minamikayabe area, approximately one hour by car from central Hakodate. The journey itself is scenic, following the coastline with views of the Pacific Ocean and passing through areas that have been inhabited for over 9,000 years.

The center operates year-round with seasonal hours: 9:00-17:00 from April to October, and 9:00-16:30 from November to March. It's closed on Mondays (or the following weekday if Monday is a holiday), the last Friday of each month, and during the New Year holidays. Admission is remarkably affordable at 300 yen for adults and 150 yen for students.

For those relying on public transportation, buses depart from Hakodate Station (Route 99, approximately 90 minutes to Kakinoshima Site stop, then a 7-minute walk). Car rental is recommended for flexibility in visiting multiple sites. The center provides ample parking, including spaces for large tour buses.

Consider timing your visit with one of the regular guided tours or hands-on activity sessions. The center offers various craft experiences without reservation, though group tours should book in advance. The on-site guides speak primarily Japanese, but English pamphlets and some signage are available.