Himeji Senba Betsuin Hontokuji Temple Gyozaisho, Otani Sect

Hontokuji Anzaisho: An Imperial Rest House Steeped in History

Nestled within the expansive grounds of Himeji Senba Betsuin Hontokuji Temple in Himeji City, Hyogo Prefecture, the Anzaisho (Imperial Rest House) is a distinguished example of Edo-period shoin-style residential architecture. Originally constructed during the Ansei era (1854–1860) as a shoin (study hall), this building later served as the temporary lodging for Emperor Meiji during his visit to Himeji on August 8, 1885. Registered as a National Tangible Cultural Property in November 2018, the Anzaisho offers visitors a rare glimpse into the refined world of temple-associated residential architecture and its connection to Japan's imperial history.

Historical Background of Senba Betsuin Hontokuji

The history of Hontokuji Temple traces back to 1492, when disciples of Rennyo Shonin, the eighth head priest of Honganji, established a propagation hall in Aga-no-ura in Harima Province. Following Toyotomi Hideyoshi's siege of Aga Castle in 1580, the temple was relocated to the Kameyama area. When the Honganji split into Eastern and Western factions in 1602, the temple's fate became intertwined with the feudal politics of the Himeji domain.

In 1618, Honda Tadamasa, the new lord of Himeji Castle, granted a generous parcel of land measuring 100 ken on each side at the present location in Jinaicho, allowing the Otani-ha (Eastern Honganji faction) to reestablish their presence. The main hall standing today was constructed in 1718 (Kyoho 3) and remains one of the largest Shinshu temple buildings in the Harima region, measuring an impressive 17 bays on each side. The temple compound spans approximately 6,600 tsubo (about 21,800 square meters), a testament to its significance as the central institution of the Otani-ha in Harima.

Why the Anzaisho Was Designated a Cultural Property

The Anzaisho was registered as a National Tangible Cultural Property (Registered Tangible Cultural Property of Buildings) on November 2, 2018. Several factors contributed to this designation. The building is a single-story wooden structure with an irimoya-zukuri (hipped-and-gabled) roof covered in san-kawara (interlocking roof tiles), with copper-plate-roofed lean-to extensions running along all four sides. It measures six ken in the ridge direction and five and a half ken in the beam direction, with a total building area of approximately 180 square meters.

The centerpiece of the interior is the Gyokuza-no-ma (Throne Room), which features an unusual and distinctive arrangement of zashiki-kazari (formal alcove decorations). This includes a tsuke-shoin (attached writing alcove), tenbukuro (overhead storage cabinets), and chigai-dana (staggered display shelves) arranged in a striking and unconventional composition. The building is characterized by its neat and refined design, with meticulous craftsmanship evident throughout, making it an excellent example of residential architecture associated with a Buddhist temple.

Architectural Highlights and Points of Interest

The Anzaisho faces south from the western edge of the temple compound, maintaining a dignified presence among the other historic structures. The irimoya-zukuri roof with its elegant curves and the surrounding copper-roofed lean-to extensions create a harmonious silhouette that speaks to the building's special status within the temple complex.

Inside, the Gyokuza-no-ma stands as the most remarkable feature. The room's alcove arrangement departs from conventional shoin-style formulas, presenting what heritage scholars have described as an inventive composition of traditional elements. The careful selection of materials and the precision of the joinery work throughout the building reflect the high standards expected of a structure serving an important branch temple of the Otani-ha.

Although a fire in 1932 (Showa 7) caused partial damage to the building, it was subsequently repaired and preserved, maintaining its historical integrity to the present day. In 2019, the official Registered Tangible Cultural Property plaque from the Agency for Cultural Affairs was installed, marking a new chapter in the building's preservation.

Emperor Meiji's Visit to Himeji

On August 8, 1885 (Meiji 18), Emperor Meiji stayed at this building during his visit to Himeji, hence its designation as an anzaisho, meaning "temporary imperial residence." The emperor's choice of this temple as his lodging reflects both the prestige of Hontokuji within the region and the quality of the shoin architecture that had been prepared to receive distinguished guests. This imperial connection adds a layer of historical significance to the building, linking it to the broader network of Meiji-era imperial travel routes across Japan.

Exploring the Temple Grounds

Beyond the Anzaisho, the Hontokuji compound offers numerous points of interest. The grand main hall, constructed in 1718, is one of the largest Shinshu sect temple halls in the Harima region, with ornate interior decorations including black lacquer, gold leaf finishings, and exquisite carved transom panels (ranma) and frog-leg struts (kaerumata). The main hall, front gate (omote-mon), great entrance hall (dai-genkan), and bell tower (shoro-do) were all designated as Important Tangible Cultural Properties by Himeji City in 2006.

The temple also preserves memorials from several historical periods: grave markers of twelve loyalist samurai from the Bakumatsu era, a memorial to the Seinan War (Satsuma Rebellion of 1877), and the so-called "Longing Mound" (Bokyo-zuka), a model of a German castle crafted from cement by German prisoners of war held at the temple during World War I. These diverse historical layers make the temple grounds a fascinating place to explore.

Visitor Information and Access

Hontokuji Temple is located approximately a 20-minute walk from JR and Sanyo Electric Railway Himeji Station. The temple is situated southwest of Himeji Castle, accessible through the Nishi-Nikaicho shopping arcade, a historic merchant street that once served as the temple's approach road. Visitors approaching from this direction will see the massive roof of the main hall rising above the surrounding buildings, creating a striking silhouette.

The temple grounds are generally open for visitors, though the interior of the Anzaisho may not always be accessible. It is advisable to contact the temple office in advance if you wish to view the interior. Please note that the temple is currently undergoing a major restoration project ahead of the 750th memorial service for Shinran Shonin, planned for 2032, so some areas may be under construction.

Nearby Attractions

Himeji offers a wealth of cultural and historical attractions within easy reach of Hontokuji Temple. Himeji Castle, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of Japan's most magnificent surviving castles, stands just about one kilometer to the northeast. The Koko-en Garden, an Edo-style strolling garden built on the site of the former western lord's residence, is located adjacent to the castle. The Himeji City Museum of Art, housed in a striking red-brick former military building, is also nearby. For those interested in the connected history of the Honganji temples, Kameyama Gobo Hontokuji, the Western Honganji branch temple with its famous ceiling paintings and sword marks left by the Shinsengumi, can be reached by Sanyo Electric Railway.