Kitano Story Museum (former M.J. Shea House)

Introduction: A Meiji-Era Western Residence on Kitano-zaka

Nestled along the picturesque Kitano-zaka slope in Kobe's iconic Kitano-cho district, Kitano Monogatarikan (北野物語館), also known as the Former M.J. Shea Residence, stands as a beautiful testament to the foreign settlement culture that shaped this cosmopolitan port city. Built in 1907 during the Meiji era, this colonial-style wooden Western house has survived earthquakes, changed hands through fascinating owners, and now serves as one of the most beloved Starbucks locations in the world — a remarkable example of adaptive reuse that bridges Kobe's storied past with its vibrant present.

Registered as a National Tangible Cultural Property in 2003, this two-story clapboard residence invites visitors to step back in time while enjoying modern comforts, making it an essential stop on any tour of Kobe's famous Ijinkan (foreign residences) district.

Historical Background: From American Residence to German Baker's Home

The building was originally constructed in 1907 (Meiji 40) as the private residence of Martin James Shea, an American citizen living in Kobe's thriving international community. It was first situated in Kitano-cho 1-chome, within the hillside neighborhood where many foreign residents had settled following the opening of Kobe Port in 1868.

The house later passed into the hands of one of Kobe's most celebrated foreign residents — Heinrich Freundlieb, a German master baker who became famous as the inspiration for the protagonist of the NHK morning television drama series "Kazamidori" (The Weathercock), broadcast in 1977. Freundlieb had established one of Japan's first German-style bakeries in Kobe, and the residence was subsequently inherited by his son, Freundlieb II, adding another chapter to the building's rich narrative.

The devastating Hanshin-Awaji Earthquake of January 17, 1995, struck a catastrophic blow to the structure, and it was certified as totally destroyed. Faced with demolition, the City of Kobe stepped in to preserve this irreplaceable piece of heritage. The city accepted the donation of the building from its owners, carefully dismantled the structure, and stored the original building materials. In 2001, the materials were transferred to a private developer, and the building was meticulously reconstructed and relocated to its current prominent position on Kitano-zaka, faithfully restoring its original Meiji-era appearance.

Why It Was Designated: Architectural Significance as a Cultural Property

On January 31, 2003, Kitano Monogatarikan was officially registered as a National Registered Tangible Cultural Property (Registration No. 28-0113) by the Agency for Cultural Affairs. The designation recognizes the building's significance as an excellent example of a small-scale Western-style residence from the Meiji period.

The building is particularly valued for its oriel windows — distinctive bay windows that project outward from the wall surface in a rectangular form — as well as its characteristic floor plan and spatial arrangement. These architectural features, combined with its two-story wooden construction, hip roof covered with Japanese san-gawara tiles, and clapboard exterior walls, represent the quintessential characteristics of the foreign residences that once dotted the Kitano hillside. The building serves as an important reference point for understanding the domestic architecture of Western expatriates in Meiji-era Japan.

Architectural Highlights and Attractions

The colonial-style architecture of Kitano Monogatarikan reflects design trends popular in European and American colonial settlements during the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The second-floor facade features a distinctive enclosed veranda with lattice windows above the entrance porch — a hallmark of colonial design adapted to the Japanese context, perhaps reflecting the Western perception of Japan as part of the broader Asian and Oriental design sphere.

The building's exterior presents an elegant combination of white walls and green-painted trim — a color scheme that, by happy coincidence, perfectly matches the corporate colors of its current tenant. The structure spans a building area of approximately 148 square meters across two floors, with the wooden framework, original fittings, and flooring preserving the atmosphere of its Meiji-era origins.

Since March 2009, the building has housed the Starbucks Coffee Kobe Kitano Ijinkan Store — the first Starbucks in Japan to operate within a registered cultural property. The interior has been thoughtfully arranged to honor the building's heritage: the ground floor features a lounge area with an original fireplace, while the second floor comprises multiple rooms — including a study and a living area — each decorated with period-appropriate furnishings, paintings, and photographs that evoke the lifestyle of the building's former residents. A specially commissioned wooden store logo was created for this location, replacing the standard illuminated sign in deference to the historical setting.

Visitor Information

Kitano Monogatarikan is freely accessible to the public as a Starbucks store, making it one of the easiest heritage buildings to experience in the Kitano district. Visitors can enjoy coffee and beverages at standard Starbucks prices while immersing themselves in the atmosphere of a Meiji-era Western residence.

The store operates daily from 7:00 AM to 10:00 PM, with no fixed closing days (irregular holidays may occur). With 74 indoor seats spread across both floors and 8 outdoor terrace seats, there are ample opportunities to find a comfortable spot, though the store is understandably popular with both tourists and locals alike.

The building is located on Kitano-zaka, the main slope leading up to the Kitano Ijinkan district. It can be reached on foot in approximately 10 to 13 minutes from JR Sannomiya Station or Shin-Kobe Station. Alternatively, the Kobe City Loop Bus stops at the "Kitano Ijinkan" bus stop, from which it is a short 3-minute walk. There is no dedicated parking, so visitors are encouraged to use public transportation.

Surrounding Attractions in the Kitano Ijinkan District

Kitano Monogatarikan is ideally situated as a starting point or resting stop for exploring the wider Kitano Ijinkan district, one of Kobe's most popular tourist areas. Several other notable foreign residences are within easy walking distance.

Just a few minutes' walk uphill stands the Weathercock House (Kazamidori no Yakata), a National Important Cultural Property and the most iconic landmark of the Kitano district. This red-brick German-style residence was built around 1909 for German trader Gottfried Thomas and features impressive Art Nouveau interior design. Nearby, the Moegi no Yakata (Former Sharp Residence) is another Important Cultural Property, known for its distinctive pale green exterior and elegant bay windows.

The Uroko no Ie (Fish Scale House), named for its slate-covered exterior resembling fish scales, was the first foreign residence opened to the public in Kobe and is itself a Registered Tangible Cultural Property. Other worthwhile visits include the English House with its Sherlock Holmes-themed rooms, the Rhine House (Line no Yakata) offering free admission, and the Kitano Tenmangu Shrine, which provides panoramic views over the city from its elevated vantage point.

For those interested in dining, the Kitano area features numerous cafes, restaurants, and boutiques that blend seamlessly with the historical atmosphere of the district.