A Collection of Ancient Books Written on Paper in Color

Shūi Kotokuden: A Rare Surviving Fragment of a Kamakura-Period Illustrated Hagiography at Muryōjuji Temple

Tucked away in the quiet farmlands of Hokota City in Ibaraki Prefecture stands Muryōjuji, a temple with roots stretching back more than a thousand years. Among its most cherished possessions is the Shūi Kotokuden, a colored picture scroll on paper that has been designated a National Important Cultural Property of Japan since 1917. What makes this scroll especially poignant is that it is a remnant—what survived a devastating fire in 1608—of what was once a magnificent multi-volume illustrated biography of Hōnen, the founder of the Pure Land school of Buddhism. For travelers drawn to the deep currents of Japanese religious history, this work offers a moving glimpse into both medieval painting and the spiritual lineage that shaped one of Japan's most important Buddhist traditions.

Historical Background

The original Shūi Kotokuden was a nine-volume illustrated handscroll completed in the late Kamakura period. Its text was composed in 1301 by Kakunyo (1270–1351), the third head priest of Hongan-ji and a great-grandson of Shinran, the founder of Jōdo Shinshū (the True Pure Land school). Kakunyo wrote the work at the request of Nagai Dōshin, a prominent follower from the Kashima area of Hitachi Province—the very region where the present-day Muryōjuji is located.

The title itself reveals the work's purpose. The word Kotoku, meaning "venerable elder," refers to Hōnen (1133–1212), the great teacher who founded the Pure Land school. Shūi means "gleanings"—supplementary material. Earlier biographies of Hōnen had largely overlooked his close master-disciple bond with Shinran. Kakunyo set out to fill this gap, weaving Shinran's life into Hōnen's story to demonstrate that Shinran was the rightful spiritual heir of his teacher. The pictorial version, completed in 1323 according to the colophon of its ninth volume, brought this argument to life through traditional yamato-e painting of the late Kamakura era.

The scroll now preserved at Muryōjuji once formed part of a complete set—either nine or ten volumes—but in 1608 (Keichō 13), a fire swept through the temple and destroyed most of the work. The surviving sections were carefully gathered together and remounted as a single scroll, measuring 40.3 centimeters in height and an extraordinary 1,979.8 centimeters in length—nearly twenty meters of painted history rescued from the flames.

Why It Was Designated an Important Cultural Property

The Shūi Kotokuden was designated a National Important Cultural Property on April 5, 1917, in recognition of its exceptional historical, religious, and artistic value. Several layers of significance support this designation.

First, the scroll is a primary visual document for understanding Pure Land Buddhism in medieval Japan. As one of the earliest illustrated biographies of Hōnen produced from the perspective of the True Pure Land school, it captures a pivotal moment when Jōdo Shinshū was establishing its identity and asserting its lineage from Hōnen. Few comparable works survive that illuminate this delicate sectarian history with such clarity.

Second, it is a fine example of Kamakura-period yamato-e painting—the indigenous narrative style that flourished in illustrated handscrolls. The brushwork, composition, and use of color reflect the mature painterly conventions of the early fourteenth century. Even as a fragment, the scroll preserves enough material to demonstrate the high quality of its original execution.

Third, the scroll's very survival is part of its meaning. That so much was lost in the 1608 fire makes the remnant all the more precious; it speaks to the resilience of religious communities who chose to preserve and remount what could be saved rather than discard the damaged work.

Highlights and What Makes the Work Compelling

Although the Shūi Kotokuden at Muryōjuji is not on regular public display, understanding its content greatly enriches a visit to the temple grounds. The scroll's surviving scenes draw on episodes from Hōnen's life—his religious awakening, his teaching of the practice of nembutsu (chanting the name of Amida Buddha), encounters with disciples, and dialogues with senior monks of established Buddhist schools. Many scenes also feature the young Shinran, deepening the narrative thread that ties the two figures together.

Stylistically, the painting employs the rich pigments and confident line work characteristic of late Kamakura yamato-e. Figures are rendered with attention to costume and expression, while interior architecture and outdoor settings are described with care. The calligraphy of the accompanying text, set between painted scenes in traditional handscroll fashion, complements the visual narrative.

Beyond its visual qualities, the scroll carries an extraordinary biographical resonance. The author Kakunyo was not merely a scholar but a man at the center of the political and spiritual life of early Hongan-ji. The work bears the imprint of his determination to define and defend his school's lineage at a turning point in its history.

Visiting Muryōjuji Temple

Muryōjuji, formally known as Kōmyōzan Mugekōin Muryōjuji, sits in Torisu, a quiet hamlet in Hokota City, Ibaraki Prefecture. According to temple tradition, it was founded in 806 during the reign of Emperor Heizei. Its connection to Pure Land Buddhism began in 1221, when Shinran took up residence here for three years and is said to have carved an image of Amida Buddha as the principal object of veneration. Upon leaving, Shinran entrusted the temple to his disciple Junshin-bō Shinkai, and Muryōjuji came to be counted as the third of the so-called Nijūshihai—the twenty-four key temples founded by Shinran's direct disciples in the Kantō region.

It is important to note that the Shūi Kotokuden itself is not regularly open to public viewing, in keeping with conservation practice for fragile medieval scrolls. Visitors should also be aware that the temple's main hall was lost to a fire in January 2021, and the temple grounds have since been undergoing reconstruction. Even so, the precincts retain a quiet, contemplative atmosphere, with cherished features such as a bodhi tree said to have been planted by Shinran himself, the temple's bell tower, and the great gate—both designated cultural properties of Ibaraki Prefecture.

For travelers wishing to view objects related to this work, the most accessible alternative is the Tokyo National Museum, which holds a related fragment titled Shūi Kotokuden Emaki Dankan. Pure Land Buddhism enthusiasts may also visit Jōfuku-ji Temple in Naka City, Ibaraki, which preserves a complete nine-volume version of the same scroll—also designated an Important Cultural Property.

Surrounding Attractions

Hokota City lies along the southeastern coast of Ibaraki, between Lake Kitaura and the Pacific Ocean, and offers a range of complementary experiences for visitors who make the trip to Muryōjuji.

• Kashima Jingū Shrine, one of the oldest and most prestigious Shintō shrines in eastern Japan, lies a short drive away and is associated with the deity Takemikazuchi.
• The Pacific coast at Hokota is known for its long beaches, fresh seafood, and the seasonal melon harvest—Ibaraki being one of Japan's leading melon-producing regions.
• Strawberry picking is a popular activity in the area during the winter and early spring months.
• Kasumigaura, Japan's second-largest lake, lies inland and offers scenic vistas, sailing experiences, and waterside walking paths.
• Mito, the prefectural capital, is home to Kairakuen, one of the Three Great Gardens of Japan, and lies within an hour by car.