Former Machiya Substation

The Former Machiya Substation: A Red Brick Witness to Ibaraki's Electric Dawn

Tucked away in the tranquil Kawachi district of Hitachiota City, Ibaraki Prefecture, stands an unassuming yet historically remarkable building — the Former Machiya Substation (旧町屋変電所, Kyū Machiya Hendensho). Built around 1909, this red brick structure is one of the oldest surviving power-generation related facilities in Ibaraki Prefecture and has been designated as a nationally registered tangible cultural property. For visitors seeking an authentic encounter with Japan's early industrial heritage in a peaceful rural setting, this hidden gem offers a truly unique experience.

A Brief History: Bringing Light to the Countryside

In January 1909 (Meiji 42), the Kuhara Mining Company — the forerunner of what would become Hitachi, Ltd. — constructed the Machiya Hydroelectric Power Station along the Satogawa River to address growing electricity demands at the nearby Hitachi Mine. A 300-kilowatt generator was installed to supply power to the mining operations, and the substation was built to transform and distribute this electricity to surrounding communities.

In the spring of 1911 (Meiji 44), Ibaraki Denki (Ibaraki Electric Company), founded by Maejima Taira — a local entrepreneur known as the "Electricity King of Ibaraki" — purchased the Machiya Power Station. On November 28 of that same year, electric lights illuminated the old town of Ota and surrounding villages for the very first time. The residents of Machiya were so proud of this achievement that a popular saying emerged: "If you want to see electricity, go to Machiya!" The substation became a beloved symbol of progress for the community.

The facility continued to operate as a working substation until around 1956 (Showa 31), after which it served as a community meeting hall for the local residents. When the building faced the threat of demolition, a group of dedicated local volunteers launched a preservation campaign. Their efforts bore fruit in August 1999, when the Former Machiya Substation was officially registered as a nationally registered tangible cultural property (Registration No. 008-0014).

Why Is It a Cultural Property? Architectural and Historical Significance

The Former Machiya Substation holds significant value on multiple fronts. As a building, it is a fine example of early 20th-century industrial brick architecture in Japan. The structure features a distinctive composition: a tall gabled (切妻, kirizuma) brick building connected to a lower hip-roofed (寄棟, yosemune) wing on its north side. The western and northern walls of the hip-roofed section are constructed of red brick, giving the building its characteristic warm, rustic appearance.

The single-story brick building covers a floor area of approximately 191 square meters and has a steel-plate roof. Its insulators (碍子, gaishi) are believed to be of French manufacture — three-phase porcelain insulators that received electricity transmitted from the Machiya Power Station and distributed it onward to the surrounding regions. These surviving elements provide tangible evidence of early international technology transfer in Japan's power industry.

Historically, the substation represents one of the earliest electrical infrastructure projects in Ibaraki Prefecture. Ibaraki's first electric lights had appeared in Mito only two years earlier, in 1907, followed by Kasama and Tsuchiura. The Machiya substation brought electricity to the northern reaches of the prefecture, marking a pivotal moment in the region's modernization. As the official designation notes, the building is invaluable as a surviving remnant of the prefecture's earliest power-generation heritage.

Highlights and What to See

The Red Brick Exterior

The building's warm red brick walls, weathered by over a century of seasons, create a striking contrast against the surrounding green rice paddies and forested hillsides. The combination of the tall gable-roofed main structure and the lower hip-roofed wing gives the building a unique silhouette that stands out in the peaceful rural landscape.

The Ginkgo Tree and Seasonal Beauty

A magnificent ginkgo tree stands beside the substation, and each autumn it transforms into a brilliant golden canopy. The annual "Lantern Red Brick and Ginkgo Festival" (行灯の赤レンガと銀杏まつり) is held during the ginkgo's peak foliage season, typically in November. Handmade paper lanterns are arranged in the surrounding rice paddies, and the lit lanterns, golden ginkgo leaves, illuminated red brick walls, and reflections in the Satogawa River create a magical nighttime scene accompanied by live music.

NHK Morning Drama Filming Location

The Former Machiya Substation gained additional fame in 2017 when it was used as a filming location for "Hiyokko" (ひよっこ), an NHK morning television drama series. Set in the 1960s, the drama depicted rural life in the fictional "Oku-Ibaraki Village." The substation appeared in a memorable scene where villagers organized their own torch relay to celebrate the 1964 Tokyo Olympics. Visitors can still find photographs and memorabilia from the drama displayed at the site.

Machiya Power Station Ruins

Near the substation, visitors can explore the remains of the original Machiya Hydroelectric Power Station. While the main building was dismantled and relocated in 1960 to serve as a school auditorium, the stone foundations, water channels, and sluice gates remain visible, allowing visitors to understand how the water from the Satogawa River was harnessed to generate electricity through a system of penstocks and turbines.

Machiya-ishi: A Geological Rarity

The area around the substation is also known for "Machiya-ishi" (町屋石), distinctive stones with unusual mottled or bamboo-leaf patterns. These geological curiosities are found in only two locations in all of Japan — here in Hitachiota and in Uki City, Kumamoto Prefecture — making them a fascinating natural complement to the industrial heritage of the site.

Surrounding Area and Nearby Attractions

The Former Machiya Substation is located in the scenic Kawachi district of Hitachiota City, a region blessed with beautiful rivers, mountains, and traditional rural landscapes. Combining a visit to the substation with nearby attractions makes for a rewarding day trip through northern Ibaraki.

• Ryujin Great Suspension Bridge (竜神大吊橋): One of Japan's longest pedestrian suspension bridges at 375 meters, spanning the Ryujin Gorge at a height of 100 meters. Bungee jumping is available, and the seasonal festivals — including carp streamers in spring and illuminations in autumn — are spectacular.
• Nishi-yama Goten (西山御殿): The retirement residence of Tokugawa Mitsukuni, the celebrated lord of the Mito Domain. This serene estate preserves the scholarly atmosphere where Mitsukuni oversaw the compilation of the Dai Nihon Shi (History of Great Japan).
• Fukuroda Falls (袋田の滝): Located in neighboring Daigo Town, this is one of Japan's Three Great Waterfalls, with a height of 120 meters and a width of 73 meters. The four-tiered cascade is spectacular in every season.
• Kujira-ga-Oka Historic District (鯨ヶ丘): The old hilltop town center of Hitachiota, featuring historic merchant houses, red brick warehouses, and charming cafés. The Inada Residence Red Brick Storehouse is another registered tangible cultural property in the area.
• Hitachi Aki Soba (常陸秋そば): The Kanasago district of Hitachiota is renowned as the birthplace of Hitachi Aki Soba, one of Japan's finest buckwheat noodle varieties. Several local restaurants serve freshly made soba using locally grown buckwheat.