Yakuo-in Temple Five-Ringed Pagoda

Yakuōin Gorintō: A Kamakura-Period Five-Story Stone Stupa in the Heart of Yamashiro Onsen

Nestled on a forested hillside behind Yakuōin Onsenji Temple in Yamashiro Onsen, the Yakuōin Gorintō stands as one of Japan's most graceful examples of Kamakura-period stone Buddhist architecture. Designated as an Important Cultural Property of Japan in 1957, this five-element stupa serves as the memorial tower for Myōgaku Shōnin, the renowned Heian-era scholar-monk who is credited with creating the earliest known version of the Japanese fifty-sound chart — the very "a-i-u-e-o" order that underpins the Japanese language to this day.

Located in Kaga City, Ishikawa Prefecture, the gorintō offers visitors a rare opportunity to encounter a centuries-old monument where Buddhist cosmology, Sanskrit scholarship, and Japanese linguistic history converge in a single, elegant stone structure.

Historical Background: Myōgaku Shōnin and the Birth of the Fifty-Sound Chart

Myōgaku Shōnin (1056–1106) was a Tendai Buddhist monk who entered the great monastery of Enryakuji on Mount Hiei, where he studied under the master Kakugon. Inspired by the work of the earlier monk Annen, Myōgaku devoted himself to Siddham studies (Shittangaku) — the scholarly discipline of Sanskrit phonology as transmitted through Buddhist texts from India to China and then to Japan.

Myōgaku eventually moved to Onsenji Temple (now Yakuōin Onsenji) in the hot-spring town of Yamashiro, where he established his scholarly base. His prolific output included works such as Shittan Yōketsu (Essentials of Siddham), Bonji Keiongigi (Form, Sound, and Meaning of Sanskrit Characters), and most significantly, Han'on Sahō (Methods of Reverse Phonetic Spelling, 1093). It is within this last work that the oldest surviving Japanese fifty-sound chart (gojūon-zu) appears — the systematic arrangement of Japanese syllables into the "a-i-u-e-o" vowel order that remains the foundation of Japanese-language education today.

Myōgaku's deep expertise in both Chinese phonology and Sanskrit earned him the posthumous honor of being regarded as the founding father of Siddham studies in Japan. His intellectual legacy transformed Yamashiro Onsen into a center of Buddhist learning, attracting many scholar-monks to the temple.

Why the Gorintō Was Designated as an Important Cultural Property

The Yakuōin Gorintō was designated as a nationally Important Cultural Property (Jūyō Bunkazai) on February 19, 1957. The designation recognizes the tower's exceptional artistic quality and historical significance.

Carved from tuff stone (gyōkaigan), the gorintō displays Sanskrit mantras of Dainichi Nyorai (Mahāvairocana Buddha) inscribed in Siddham script on each face, accompanied by beautifully rendered lotus-petal roundels (renben ensō). Art historians have dated the tower to the Kamakura period (1185–1333) based on its refined proportions, the elegance of its carved details, and the overall sense of stability and grace in its form — hallmarks of the finest stone-carving traditions of that era.

The five tiers of the stupa represent the five cosmic elements (godai) of esoteric Buddhist philosophy, derived from ancient Indian cosmological thought: earth (chi-rin, square base), water (sui-rin, spherical form), fire (ka-rin, triangular or pyramidal roof), wind (fū-rin, crescent shape), and space or void (kū-rin, jewel-shaped finial). Together, these elements symbolize the entirety of the universe and the cosmic body of the Buddha.

Architectural Highlights and Points of Interest

The gorintō is located on a elevated terrace behind the main hall of Yakuōin Onsenji, reached by climbing the "Aiueo no Komichi" (A-I-U-E-O Path) — a stone stairway set into the hillside of Banshōen Park. Along this path, Kutani-ware ceramic tiles bearing individual characters of the Japanese fifty-sound chart are embedded in the steps, paying tribute to Myōgaku's linguistic contribution.

Due to centuries of weathering, the gorintō is now sheltered within a protective covering structure (ōiya) to prevent further deterioration. Despite the effects of time, the Sanskrit inscriptions and lotus-petal carvings remain visible, and the tower's harmonious proportions continue to convey the artistic sensibility of Kamakura-period stone masons.

The surrounding Banshōen hillside is densely forested with ancient trees over two hundred years old, creating a solemn atmosphere that feels far removed from the lively hot-spring town below. In autumn, the area is celebrated for its vivid foliage, making it a particularly rewarding time to visit.

Yakuōin Onsenji Temple

The gorintō stands within the grounds of Yakuōin Onsenji, a temple with a history stretching back approximately 1,300 years. According to tradition, the temple was founded in 725 (Jinki 2) when the wandering monk Gyōki discovered the hot spring during his pilgrimage toward sacred Mount Hakusan, guided there by a sacred bird. He carved images of Yakushi Nyorai (the Medicine Buddha) and other deities, enshrining them as guardian figures for the spring.

The temple serves as the guardian temple (yumoridera) of Yamashiro Onsen and houses numerous treasures, including a standing Eleven-Faced Kannon statue from the early Heian period and a Fudō Myōō (Acala) statue from the Kamakura period. Its vermilion-painted main gate (sanmon) and Niōmon gate mark the entrance to a tranquil precinct of halls, a bell tower, and a small waterfall.

Each year, the temple hosts the Shōbu-yu Matsuri (Iris Hot Water Festival), a tradition said to have been started by the mountain ascetics who gathered around Myōgaku. This festival, with roots spanning over a thousand years, involves ritual purification with iris leaves for the year's unlucky-age participants and prayers for health and the expulsion of evil spirits.

Visitor Information and Access

Yakuōin Onsenji and the gorintō are located in the heart of Yamashiro Onsen, just steps from the Sōyu (public bathhouse) and Kosōyu (historic bathhouse). The temple grounds are open to visitors free of charge, and the path to the gorintō is accessible during daylight hours.

From JR Kaga Onsen Station, take the Kaga Shūyū Bus (CAN BUS, Yamamawari route) and alight at "Yamashiro Onsen Sōyu / Kosōyu" bus stop. The temple is approximately 200 meters on foot. Alternatively, take the Hokutetsu Kaga Bus bound for Yamanaka Onsen and alight at the "Yamashiro Onsen" stop, from where the temple is about 350 meters away.

By car, the temple is approximately 4.6 kilometers from JR Kaga Onsen Station, 10.7 kilometers from the Katayamazu Interchange on the Hokuriku Expressway, or 7.4 kilometers from the Kaga Interchange.

Surrounding Attractions

Yamashiro Onsen offers a wealth of cultural and relaxation experiences within easy walking distance of the temple.

• Kosōyu (Historic Bathhouse): A faithful reconstruction of the Meiji-era communal bathhouse, featuring Kutani-ware tile floors, stained-glass windows, and a traditional bathing style with no showers or soap — just pure, free-flowing hot spring water.
• Sōyu (Modern Public Bathhouse): The contemporary communal bath with spacious facilities, hand-painted Kutani-ware wall tiles, and 100% natural source water.
• Kutani-yaki Kiln Site Exhibition Hall: Located on the grounds of historic kiln ruins, this museum traces the story of Kutani porcelain from the mysterious "Old Kutani" period of the early Edo era to its revival in Yamashiro. Visitors can try their hand at Kutani painting or pottery-wheel experiences.
• Rosanjin Gūkyo-ato Iroha-sōan: The former temporary residence of Kitaōji Rosanjin, the legendary 20th-century artist, ceramicist, and gastronome who stayed in Yamashiro for about six months and studied pottery under local master Suda Seika.
• Hatori Shrine: Dedicated to the deity of weaving, this shrine stands adjacent to Yakuōin on the Banshōen hilltop, with 108 stone steps leading to its main hall. The shrine's forest is renowned for autumn foliage.