The Former Ninetieth Bank Head Office: A Pioneer of Modern Japanese Architecture in Morioka
Tucked along the gentle Nakatsu River in the heart of Morioka City, Iwate Prefecture, the Former Ninetieth Bank Head Office Main Building (Kyū Daikyūjū Ginkō Honten Honkan) stands as one of the most fascinating early modern buildings in northern Japan. Completed in December 1910 (Meiji 43), this elegant brick structure once served as the central office of a regional bank that helped finance the modernization of the Tōhoku region. Today, it has been lovingly preserved and reopened as the Morioka Takuboku & Kenji Museum of Youth (Morioka Takuboku-Kenji Seishunkan), where visitors can step inside a nationally designated Important Cultural Property completely free of charge.
For travelers drawn to architecture, literature, or the romance of Meiji-era Japan, this red-brick gem is a quietly extraordinary discovery — a place where the streams of European modernism, Japanese craftsmanship, and the youth of two of Japan's most beloved writers all converge under one roof.
A Bank Born in the Age of Modernization
The Ninetieth National Bank was established in Morioka in 1878, part of the wave of national banks founded across Japan in the early Meiji period to underpin the country's rapid industrialization. As the bank prospered, plans were drawn up for a new headquarters worthy of its growing role in regional commerce. Construction broke ground in 1908 and was completed in December 1910, and the building stood as a proud symbol of Morioka's emergence as a modern urban center.
The architect was Tsutomu Yokohama (横濱勉), a young man born in Morioka who had only recently graduated from the architecture department of Tokyo Imperial University. The Ninetieth Bank commission was an extraordinary opportunity for an early-career architect, and Yokohama responded with a building that quietly defied the conventions of the era. Significantly, Yokohama was an alumnus of Morioka Middle School — the very same institution attended by the poets Takuboku Ishikawa and Kenji Miyazawa — making the building a hidden link in the cultural fabric of the city.
Why It Was Designated an Important Cultural Property
On July 6, 2004, the Former Ninetieth Bank Head Office Main Building was designated an Important Cultural Property of Japan by the national government. Its significance lies in its remarkably advanced architectural language for its time. While most Meiji-era bank buildings in Japan adhered to grandiose Western historicist styles — neoclassical temples of finance with imposing columns and high atrium banking halls — Yokohama's design took a quieter, more progressive path.
The exterior expresses the dignity expected of a bank through a Romanesque Revival vocabulary, with rounded arches and a mansard-style roof punctuated by dormer windows. The interior, however, is strikingly different: clean lines, restrained ornament, and a calm geometry that reflects the influence of the Vienna Secession (Sezession) movement. This pairing of a solid, reassuring exterior with a forward-looking, simplified interior is now recognized as an early forerunner of the Expressionist architecture that would emerge in Japan during the Taishō era. The building is an exceptional witness to how late-19th-century European architectural movements were absorbed and reinterpreted in Japan with remarkable speed, and it occupies an important place in the history of modern Japanese architecture.
The building is also notable for engineering refinements that reward a closer look — including the truss beams supporting the second-floor framing and the ingenious opening-and-closing mechanism of the second-floor ventilation grilles, both of which display considerable technical accomplishment.
Highlights and What to See
From the moment you approach the building, the harmony of its materials makes a strong impression. The walls are laid in fine red brickwork, while the corner stones and arches around the entrance and windows are dressed with cut granite quarried at Kawame, just outside Morioka. The asymmetrical façade, set off by a slate and copper-clad mansard roof and graceful dormer windows, gives the building a softer, more human silhouette than the rigidly symmetrical bank architecture typical of the period.
The Former Banking Hall (Now the Permanent Exhibition Room)
The room that once buzzed with bank tellers and customers is now a tranquil exhibition space dedicated to Takuboku Ishikawa and Kenji Miyazawa, two literary giants who spent their formative years in Morioka. Visitors can examine first editions, handwritten letters, and personal artifacts, all framed by the building's original architectural detailing.
The Former Vault — "Subaru" Light and Sound Room
One of the most memorable spaces is the former bank vault, which has been transformed into an immersive light-and-sound installation called Subaru. Step through the heavy vault door and you are surrounded by changing colors and ambient soundscapes inspired by Kenji Miyazawa's beloved fairy tale "Night on the Galactic Railroad." The pairing of weighty historic architecture and dreamlike contemporary art is unforgettable.
The Former President's Office — Image Experience Room
The former office of the bank's president has been repurposed as a small theater showing video presentations on the building, the writers, and Meiji-era Morioka.
The Second-Floor Exhibition Hall
The spacious second-floor hall — originally the bank's general meeting room — now hosts rotating special exhibitions, art shows, and occasional concerts. The high ceiling and warm wood detailing make it one of the most atmospheric event spaces in the city.
Kissa Akogare (Café "Akogare")
A retro-style café within the building serves coffee freshly ground and brewed to order, in a setting that feels gently suspended between eras. It is a perfect place to pause after exploring the exhibits.
Around the Building: Exploring Historic Morioka
The Former Ninetieth Bank Head Office is located in one of the most rewarding walking districts in Tōhoku. Morioka was famously listed among The New York Times' "52 Places to Go in 2023," and a stroll through this neighborhood reveals why.
- Iwate Bank Red Brick Building (Iwate Ginkō Aka-Renga-Kan): Just a few minutes' walk away, this 1911 former Morioka Bank headquarters was designed by Kingo Tatsuno (architect of Tokyo Station) and is also an Important Cultural Property.
- Plaza Odette: A modern complex with tourist information, a bicycle rental service, and views of the Nakatsu River.
- Nakatsu River Promenade: A scenic walking path along the river, particularly beautiful in spring (cherry blossoms) and autumn (colored leaves).
- Morioka Castle Site Park (Iwate Park): The atmospheric stone foundations of the former Nanbu clan castle, a short walk uphill.
- Sakurayama Shrine: A historic shrine famed for the massive "Eboshi-iwa" rock at its precincts.
- Sakana-machi Shopping Street: A traditional shopping arcade with local crafts, sweets, and dining.
- Morioka Tegami-kan (Letter Museum): A small museum dedicated to letters by literary figures connected to the region.
- 📍 Plan Your Visit to Iwate
- Find tours, activities & transport passes near Former 90th Bank Main Branch
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Q&A
- Is the building free to enter?
- Yes. General admission to the Morioka Takuboku & Kenji Museum of Youth, including the historic banking hall, vault, and most exhibition spaces, is free of charge. Some special exhibitions held in the second-floor hall may charge a separate fee.
- When is the building open?
- The building is open from 10:00 to 18:00, with last admission at 17:30. It is closed on the second Tuesday of each month and during the year-end holidays (December 29 to January 3). When the second Tuesday falls on a public holiday, the museum opens that day and closes the next.
- How do I get there from Morioka Station?
- It is approximately 10 minutes by taxi from Morioka Station. By bus, take the Iwate Kenkō Bus bound for "Suidōbashi" (about 20 minutes) and get off at "Seishunkan-mae" — the building is right there. The "Dendenmushi" loop bus also stops nearby at Morioka Bus Center, a 3-minute walk away.
- Is photography allowed inside?
- Photography of the exhibits and the building is permitted for personal, non-commercial use. Please refrain from using flash near sensitive paper materials and ask staff if you are unsure.
- How long should I plan for a visit?
- Most visitors spend about 45 to 60 minutes exploring the exhibits and the building itself. If you take a coffee break at the in-house café "Akogare," allow another 30 minutes. The site pairs naturally with a visit to the nearby Iwate Bank Red Brick Building.
Basic Information
| Name | Former Ninetieth Bank Head Office Main Building (Kyū Daikyūjū Ginkō Honten Honkan) |
|---|---|
| Current Use | Morioka Takuboku & Kenji Museum of Youth (Morioka Takuboku-Kenji Seishunkan) |
| Address | 1-1-25 Nakanohashi-dōri, Morioka City, Iwate Prefecture |
| Architect | Tsutomu Yokohama (横濱勉), Morioka native |
| Construction | Started 1908 (Meiji 41); completed December 1910 (Meiji 43) |
| Structure | Brick construction, two stories with a partial basement; building area 264.61 m²; slate and copper-clad mansard roof; brick side wall attached |
| Style | Romanesque Revival exterior with Vienna Secession–influenced interior; precursor to Taishō-era Expressionist architecture in Japan |
| Cultural Property Designation | Important Cultural Property of Japan, designated July 6, 2004 |
| Owner | Morioka City |
| Opening Hours | 10:00–18:00 (last admission 17:30) |
| Closed | Second Tuesday of each month; December 29 – January 3 |
| Admission | Free (some special exhibitions may charge separately) |
| Access | About 10 minutes by taxi from JR Morioka Station; or by Iwate Kenkō Bus to "Seishunkan-mae" stop |
References
- Cultural Heritage Online — Former Ninetieth Bank Head Office Main Building
- https://bunka.nii.ac.jp/heritages/detail/177082
- Morioka City Official Website — Former Ninetieth Bank Head Office Main Building
- http://www.city.morioka.iwate.jp/shisei/moriokagaido/rekishi/1009335/1009340/1009346.html
- Iwate Cultural Information Encyclopedia — Former Ninetieth Bank Head Office Main Building
- http://www.bunka.pref.iwate.jp/archive/hist30
- Morioka Takuboku & Kenji Museum of Youth — Official Site
- https://seishunkan.jp/
- Japan Travel Bureau Foundation — National Tourism Resource Inventory
- https://tabi.jtb.or.jp/res/030024-
- Tabi Tōhoku — Morioka Takuboku & Kenji Museum of Youth
- https://www.tohokukanko.jp/attractions/detail_1122.html
Last verified: 2026.05.10